How to bore tapered ID for split taper bushing?

[dado5]

I am making a drive wheel for my belt grinder out of aluminum. 2" wide, 4.5" dia. My drive shaft on the motor is 7/8" with a key slot. I have a browning split taper bushing. I have never used one before and will be making this on my lathe. I have the large end and small end diameters from the literature. How do these bushings work? when I have the final dimensions will the bushing not slide all the way in and then by screwing it in I am compressing the bushing onto the shaft for an interference fit. How far out from a flush fit will the bearing be prior to using the screws? Anybody have any pics of these in use? I don't want to screw up this piece of aluminum.

 

[den-den]

The ones I have put together slide together easily 1/4" - 3/8" short of being flush. The bushing does get compressed onto the shaft. I have assembled many of them but none were aluminum (I suspect that aluminum will work OK). Note: if you lubricate the taper, it is possible to apply enough force to split a large cast iron pulley with three small bolts.

 

[4GSR]

If I remember correct, the Browning taper lock bushing is on a .750" taper per foot or 1 deg. 45 minutes off of centerline. A sine bar may help here too. I used my compound to cut the taper with when I used to do this. I would take the bushing, chuck on it gently, true it up and indicate my compound in. When I get it where the bushing is in the bore about halfway, start blueing it for correct taper. Don't take too much cut at a time or you will bore it oversize in a heartbeat. When the bushing is snug by hand, the standoff should be about 3/16" to a 1/4" gap between the bushing and workpiece.

 

[Z2V]

Note: if you lubricate the taper, it is possible to apply enough force to split a large cast iron pulley with three small bolts.

True statement, I split one last year.

 

[dado5]

thanks for the replies. I have a taper attachment on my lathe. I never thought of chucking up the bushing and setting the taper off of that! I was going to try and measure it somehow. 3/16" standoff seems like a lot, especially since I am using aluminum wheel. do you think I really need to use the key, between the compression fit and the screws?

 

[4GSR]

....................do you think I really need to use the key, between the compression fit and the screws?

Not needed on smaller bushings, bigger one's driving 20 HP and higher, yes.

Now, you need to use a key between the bushing and shaft. I have on smaller fractional HP applications, leave the key out. Never had one walk off the shaft.

 

[Alittlerusty]

Also it usually takes a couple tries to get them assembled and aligned to the rest of the rollers because the point at which it stops sliding onto the bushing is kind of unknown

 

[Chipper5783]

Bore it first on a piece of scrap material (does not need to be aluminum). When you get it all just how you like it, then repeat for the real drive wheel.

 

[dado5]

ok, I'll let you know how it comes out.