How to repair a live centre?

T

Tozguy

Active User
H-M Supporter Gold Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2013
Messages
2,963
The live centre that came with my new lathe is a no name budget version that has developed some play.
After searching a bit I have not found any info on disassembly or repair of these tools.
I have found a lot of discussion about terminology and buying them but not much about repairing or upgrading them. Any help along that line would be appreciated.
 
The one that I have looks like it is pressed together with no provisions for disassembly.
 
I don't know about import centers, but I bought 2 live centers ( American made) on the bay. Both needed service.
One only neede cleaned and lubed. The other had a noisy bearing . I disassembled both to service them. Bought bearing from Motion Industries, reassembled , work great. Two centers and bearing less than $40. Everything was press fit.
You can figure this out. Go for it.
 
There is no standard way of assembling a live center. My 30 yr old live center from Clausing for my Atlas/Craftsman 6 x 18 is also a press fit. It has an exposed sealed ball bearing. If I were to service it, I would have to pull the seal out to expose the bearing race, break up the ball carrier, and slide the balls to the side in order to allow insertion a pair of custom hooks to pull the bearing. Once the bearing and center were pulled, I could remove the front bearing. Hopefully, the rear bearing would be a slip fit and could be removed fairly easily but there are no bets.

Another option would be to bore a hole from the rear of the Morse taper and press the assembly out. This, assuming that the taper isn't hardened. It would still be a bit tricky as that is a long hole to bore true. If successful, the hole could be plugged with a threaded plug for access for future service.

How many hours do you have in the center? If they are relatively few, the design probably isn't that good anyway and your best option may be to scrap it and buy another center.
 
Not gonna throw away a chance to learn something.

RJ the end of the Morse taper already has a threaded plug that I had not noticed. Thanks for the idea, will pull it out and see what gives.
It is coming apart one way or another. It does not have much use but it was used recently in an offset tail stock to turn a long taper. Not a nice way to treat a live centre ???
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0555.JPG
    IMG_0555.JPG
    59.8 KB · Views: 40
For those of you who have repaired a live center. I have posted pic of one that takes replaceable points/inserts. I have pictures posted at this forum. Does the point shaft just ride on the base of the center or is is supported on the face of the bearing shaft. It looks like I have two bearings and the point shaft is supported by them and rides dry? on the bottom and a cap screws on. There is no clearance between the cap and the bearings to form a captive shoulder to ride on. I could use some advice so I can make some decent inserts
 
Tozguy i like your thinking, never pass up a learning experience.
Question for you, in the picture you posted there is a length of chain that seems to be acting like a follow rest, is that correct? Does it work well for you?
 
Yes the spindle was rather easy to tap out of the bearings using a long punch inside the MT taper .
After having a look inside it is obviously a two bearing design of limited potential and not worth investing in. Although I am tempted to turn a new spindle that extends all the way through the morse taper. Then fit a bushing in the small end to add support to the alignment of the spindle.
This idea was inspired by this design;
www.penntoolco.com

TMX Precision Live Centers

Offering a huge selection of industrial tool sales online. Find over 100,000 metalworking products, precision measuring tools, power tools & accessories.
www.penntoolco.com www.penntoolco.com
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0558.JPG
    IMG_0558.JPG
    63.7 KB · Views: 32
rascal, yes the follow rest using an anvil and chain works very well as long as provision is made to keep chips from getting caught between the anvil and barrel. In my case a piece of felt cut to fit beside the anvil worked great.
IMG_0551.JPG

The anvil was made from an automobile wheel stud which showed very little wear after several passes.
IMG_0557.JPG

As the rest progresses up the taper the chain pulls against a spring. The chain hook has to be adjusted at intervals by turning the nut out to prevent the spring from being coil bound.
IMG_0550.JPG
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top