How To Repair The Steering Head On My Motorcycle?

malmac

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I am looking for a quality repair - the problem is that the bearing seat is either worn or stretched, or maybe the bearings being made are a little under size - BUT the end result is that the bearing race is not a press fit into the frame. Does anyone have a quality repair strategy for such a situation.

Is it possible to shrink the bearing mount? If so how?

Yes I know there is locktite products - but I feel this is a last resort, not a first resort.

Any good ideas?????

Mal

PS the bike is a 1962 BMW R69s - for those who are interested.
 
27978217716_2f4532b3d4_z.jpg

Not sure why the photo did not come up in the first post.
 
I know you consider a bearing retaining compound a "last resort", but by my way of thinking it would be a first option.? Or are you trying to keep the bike absolutely 100% original?

I've used bearing retainer in a lot of applications and have always been satisfied. Steering head bearing have no load, heat or rpm. Very easy repair for a retaining compound.
http://na.henkel-adhesives.com/industrial/vehicle-repair-maintenance-retaining-compounds-22183.htm
Use the proper one and apply it correctly. That is what it is made for (do NOT use a thread locker).

Good luck on your restoration of a classic bike!
 
I will measure up the inside diameter and calculate the gap. While steering head bearing are not exposed to heat or rotation, they are subject to significant side loading - which is I guess why the metal has stretched over the last 50 years of use. I was thinking of some sort of shim - I have seen shims to repair the oil seal running surface - I thought maybe a sort of shim or perhaps an oversize outer race which I could turn down to become a press fit - yes I know, I am probably dreaming. I will investigate the chemical solutions.


Thanks
Mal
 
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Not necessarily a good idea but you could carefully wrap the race with a layer (or two) of HVAC metal heat duct tape.

premium-high-tack-tape.jpg
 
This is what we did in the Harley dealership I worked at in the 80's (I was Factory Trained in Milwaukee). Evenly spaced centerpunch pricks and Locktite bearing retainer or equivalent. Let it set up over night. If the steering head bearings are adjusted properly and the forks work properly (no stretched springer stuff) it should hold forever.
When I run into situations like that I run around the i.d. with a center punch, top, bottom, and center about a 1/4" apart. This will usally tighten things up nicely. Mike
 
Bore a tool with a few thousandths taper that will fit over the top of the boss. Pull it over with all-thread and a plate/nut arrangement on the bottom if you can't manage to get the frame situated in a press. Make sure the tool has a solid bottom so you can use a bar and hammer to knock it back off. Worst case, you could hammer it over the existing boss, even if you had to heat it, but cold work would be preferred.

Measure the wall thickness of the boss now and double it, add the desired ID size and you will have a finish size for the ID of the tool at the small end of the taper, which should end up with a short, straight section. It does appear that the OD of the boss is machined, and this remedy is based on that being the case. I have "shrunk" many thin walled parts with this method. It's simply a swaging operation. No centerpunch needed, but I will grant that the centerpunch is about the easiest way next to bearing retaining chemicals.
 
Thanks guys, now some ideas are in the melting pot, I can make a call on which option I prefer. Lucklily the frame is completely stripped - I do have a shop press and also I have a centre punch or two - I have some Loctite 680 but reading up the spec, maybe the Loctite 660 might be the preferred option. mmmmmm - he thinks.

Thanks guys


Mal
 
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