How to sharpen a knife

There's a guy on youtube that pokes around at different sharpening techniques burrfection. I've only watched one or two of the videos but the guy sharpens knives offhand on whatever stone is around - brick, paving stone, whatever. Worth a watch.
 
Don't buy a hardware stone.
Buy a quality stone, then hone your technique and take your time.
Once you have it sharp, a steel touch up is all that's needed.
 
Looked up Wicked Edge sharpeners. Expensive. Never going to happen on my budget.
 
Yeah, I finagled a pro deal at the time, I think I paid 40% of retail on the Wicked Edge. I had all my stuff in storage at the time, else I would have made one. It would have been a fun project to do in brass. The basic idea is very simple. The marble base was an embellishment that I am glad I bought. If you are interested, I can take some dimensioned photos...
 
In watching the videos on sharpening a common theme was that when you get the two edges to meet a burr will form. No burr means that there are multiple facets at the edge of the knife if I understood this correctly. I got this burr to form when I was using the 80 grit belt and somewhat when I went to the 320 grit belt. Sometimes all along the edge and sometimes only along portions of the edge. And then on a subsequent pass the burr would disappear. Then it might come back and then just as mysteriously disappear again. I have no idea what I am doing wrong because I can't tell that I changed anything in how I presented the edge to the belt. This is where I am at right now.
 
It is going to be difficult to get an edge (the burr) on the entire blade using a belt sander unless you use a fixture or jig of some kind. I would suggest moving from the sander to a stone once you get the burr formed, that will slow you down so you don't lose the progress you've already made. When moving from a coarser grit to a finer one, I always reduce the pressure on the stroke. Same angle, same motion, less pressure, and slower movement.
 
Have you tried any stones yet or just belt?
 
When you use your knives 8-10 hours a day, 6 days a week, for 10 years, sharpening at least a couple of them every day, you watch the old timers, ask questions, and learn how quickly. I have been away from that work for almost 40 years now, and I can still sharpen a knife without hardly even looking at it or the stone. No additional aids beyond knife, two hands, stone, and tap water. Checking the edge against a fingernail tells a lot...
 
I ve found myself wanting my own shop and realized it would be years before I can be tooled up and such and wanted something to help the business out on a steadier basis as it s mostly repairs and stuff around here.
The idea was that it would be easier to get to a point in the sharpening aspect as it s much cheaper to get there.
I bought a Tormek T8 wet grinder. A swedish machine. It honestly is one of the best machines I have been around. It s quality and design is great.
After I am done honing on the leather wheel with the Aluminum Oxide Compound I can take a pc. Of chicken breast a lay it in my hand amd split it without holding it. First thing my customers do is let staff know how sharp they are. It really keeps an edge for some time.
I have a few different of there grinding wheels and a whole whack of jigs. Super precise doing angles and the jigs are very well engineered. For knives there are three jigs. Not just for length but also flex.
It has become facinating learning about sharpening. Quite challenging and way more going on with geometry than I ever thought. Scissors for example has so many things going on you have to know what your doing or there junk.
The biggest seller to customers is the slow wet grind. Grinding on a bench grinder or belt as Bob says takes the temper out because of the thinning of the edge.
For stones make yourself a wooden jig to establish your angles. Count your strokes with consistent pressure.
I must have at least three grand into by now but man it does a good job and love having the ability to put four facet grinds on my drill bits.
Has a continuous duty motor and comes with a ten year warranty.
 

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Last edited:
Mickri,
once there is a burr along the full length of the blade stay on the same side but with finer grit. Make sure the blade does not heat up at all, quench often with water. Continue on the same side with lighter pressure until the burr falls off. Touch up the other side on a fine stone.
If the burr comes back you are using too much pressure, too coarse a grit or the wrong angle.
Making a heavy burr too easily could be a sign of poor knife steel.
 
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