How would you make this?

[Shotgun]

Looks to me like you have the opportunity of a nice side gig turning $3 pieces of aluminum into $30 blade guards. Husquavarna is mostly likely popping these out for $1 each on a big punching machine, and using the weak design as a profit center. If you move quick, you can cash in until Husquavarna figures out the gig is up, and adjusts their price accordingly.

 

[tjb]

Looks to me like you have the opportunity of a nice side gig turning $3 pieces of aluminum into $30 blade guards. Husquavarna is mostly likely popping these out for $1 each on a big punching machine, and using the weak design as a profit center. If you move quick, you can cash in until Husquavarna figures out the gig is up, and adjusts their price accordingly.

The thought has crossed my mind.

 

[Jimsehr]

I'm trying to visualize the most efficient way to make the part in the drawing attached below. I'll need to make several, so the closer I can get to assembly-lining the process, the better. Accurate measurements are more likely the metric values.

I'm thinking something along these lines:

1. Make a sacrificial plate that's slightly smaller than the overall diameter - 7-3/4" - 8" or so. I have a piece of 3/8" aluminum that will work perfectly.
2. Mill a hole in the center of the plate to accommodate the center hole and the six slotted holes.
3. Center-mount the plate and a slightly over-sized blank onto my 12" rotary table, clamping on all four slots.
4. Mill the interior hole and slots. The slots are actually on two-alternating diameters. It would be simple to determine the diameters and make alternating internal and external holes, but the slots would probably easier.
5. Move to the outside diameter and mill by removing and replacing one clamp at a time.

Any feedback or suggestions for a better approach?

Thanks in advance.

Regards

View attachment 449671

First I would mount my 8 inch back plate. Then put a piece of 1/2 13 threaded rod thru spindle. Then I would put a short piece of round stock a little over an inch dia on front end of threaded rod and turn a 1 inch dia on it with an inch or so extended out.
2nd I would load parts onto 1 inch turned round stock after drilling 1 inch holes in parts. About 5 parts at a time. Then using a washer about 7.5 OD I would pinch hold parts against face plate and turn parts OD. Now that OD and ID are finished it’s time for slots.
I would move face plate set up to my Hardinge indexer with a washer just under the slot dia . Then it’s cut slot index cut slot index. Much faster then turn table.

 

[tjb]

First I would mount my 8 inch back plate. Then put a piece of 1/2 13 threaded rod thru spindle. Then I would put a short piece of round stock a little over an inch dia on front end of threaded rod and turn a 1 inch dia on it with an inch or so extended out.
2nd I would load parts onto 1 inch turned round stock after drilling 1 inch holes in parts. About 5 parts at a time. Then using a washer about 7.5 OD I would pinch hold parts against face plate and turn parts OD. Now that OD and ID are finished it’s time for slots.
I would move face plate set up to my Hardinge indexer with a washer just under the slot dia . Then it’s cut slot index cut slot index. Much faster then turn table.

Good idea. I'll study that.

Regards

 

[Jimsehr]

?

Good idea. I'll study that.

Regards

If job is repeating. I would make spindle part dead flush with back plate so that parts don’t bow when pinch held. And make pinch washer just a bit under OD. And undercut it so that it only pinches the outer area of parts.
you could probably easily hold and turn 20 disks at a time.
But I would only cut slots holding about 5 parts at a time so you don’t have to worry about breaking the small end mill. This how I would make small production runs.
If you set a front and back stop you can plunge mill one end of slot index, plunge mill next slot with your eyes closed.