Huanyang 3kw Vfd-240 Volt Single Phase To 220 Volt 3 Phase

johnnyc14

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I installed a Hyanyang VFD on my newly acquired Bridgeport clone mill and I am happy with the results. I have is set up with a remote panel with switches for run, forward/reverse and jog as well as a variable speed potentiometer. I removed the old electrical box from the side of the mill and gutted all the old electrical stuff out of it. I mounted the box on an adjustable pedestal with the vfd and switch panel inside so it can be reached easily. After I got all the settings right I wrote a up a document and drew a schematic in case anyone else wants this information. The switch panel in the picture is temporary. I plan to make something prettier later, I just wanted to get it up and running fast for now.

P2210791_zpsllxnbgpr.jpg

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Huanyang Inverter (VFD)


-Model number HY03D023B

-Input 240 Volt single phase

-Rated output 220 Volt 3 phase 4 HP or 3KW 13 Amps (220 volts X 13 Amps = 2860 watts) (1 HP = 746 Watts) (4 X 746 Watts = 2984 Watts)


Initial Set-Up


-Instructions from vendor (eBay seller “Solar Jean”) suggested the frequency parameters be set in the following order: PD05 set to 60HZ, PD04 set to 60HZ, PD03 set to 60HZ, PD72 to 60HZ. I connected the 200 Volt single phase input power to terminals S and T and the 3 legs of the 3 phase 3 HP motor to terminals U, V, and W. I plugged the VFD in with it temporarily just lying of the table of the mill and it powered up. I set the above parameters as suggested and the Run, Forward and Reverse functions worked from the unit’s built in keypad.


Advanced Set-Up


-I wanted to use a remote mounted control panel to allow remote function of Run, Forward/Reverse, Jog as well as a Potentiometer controlled variable speed. Since the mill has a variable speed head I see no reason to run the motor at more than the rated 60HZ. Using the supplied manual I then made the following switching, wiring and parameter changes to achieve the functions I wanted. I used the schematic on page 37 as a guide for the 3 wire Run, Forward/Reverse switches and the schematic on page 12 for the wiring of the Potentiometer. Page 36 explains how the output terminals can be re-configured for multiple uses. I drew the following schematic after researching the manual. The information on pages 19-26 of the manual details which parameters and settings support the different functions. Since my custom settings are all basic they are all covered on pages 19-20 except PD72 which was part of the initial setup for 60HZ power. These are the connections and parameter changes I made to make the VFD function as I wanted:


See the schematic on the next page, Switch 1 is for D1, Switch 2 is for D2 and Switch 3 is for D3.

-PD01 set to 1 to support use of external input controls.

-PD44 set to 1 to change the function of the “FOR” terminal to D1. When set to 1, D1 is now the Run function.

-PD45 set to 5 to change the function of the “REV” terminal to D2. When set to 5, D2 is now the Forward/Reverse selector. When Switch 2 is open you get forward rotation and when closed you get reverse. See page 37 of the manual for these instructions.

-PD46 set to 6 to change the function of the “RST” terminal to D3. When set to 6, D3 is now the Jog function. It works in forward or reverse depending on the position of switch 2.

-PD02 set to 1 to support the input from the external Potentiometer for speed control.

-PD11 set to 10. This sets the lowest frequency of the variable speed to 10HZ so the potentiometer can adjust the speed of the motor from 10HZ to 60HZ. The factory setting is 0 so when the pot is turned all the way down the motor stops.

-PD14 set to 5 to change the acceleration time (0Hz to 60HZ) to 5 seconds when run is selected. Factory setting is 20 seconds.

-PD15 set to 5 to change ramp down or deceleration time (60HZ to 0HZ) to 5 seconds. I was cautioned to go no lower than 5 seconds without connecting an external braking resistor. The VFD must be given time to dissipate the energy created by the motor as it slows (it acts as a generator when slowing). The internal braking circuits in the VFD cannot support aggressive deceleration and an external braking resistor must be added to slow to a stop quickly. Using the information in the manual, and some internet searches I settled on a 200 ohm, 200 watt resistor. I have ordered but not received it yet so the one show in the schematic is not wired in currently. I will update this information when I get the resistor and experiment with aggressive slow down times.


VFD%20Schematic_zps8fn7xg1w.png


John
 
Nice Work jonnyc14,
i have the same inverter- but i'm putting it on a lathe also with a 3hp motor.
 
Ironmonger, I like your idea. I looked on eBay and you can buy FC-10P cables very cheap. Is this the cable end you used. The number FC10P is embossed on the cable end on my vfd's board. They have used clear silicone sealant to attach the cable end to the board so I'm not sure I can get it off without damage.

FC10P%20cable_zps1vmhos1v.jpg
 
Nice Work jonnyc14,
i have the same inverter- but i'm putting it on a lathe also with a 3hp motor.
Thanks Mike, it took me a couple of days of research to figure all the settings as this is my first experience with a vfd. If you need any input let me know. It is all still pretty fresh in my head so I might be able to help.

John
 
Hi John
I bought the bare connectors and crimped 'em on my own ribbon cable. I was able to carefully cut off the sealant. Mine looked like a hot melt, who knows. I did not apply anything to replace it. Have not had a problem as yet. I did not experiment with cable length, mine is about 8" long... I don't think that a length of 16" or 18" would be a problem, given how long HDD and Floppy cables are.

As I mentioned before, the shop is to cold to heat for playin' around just yet, so my setting issues for the Hyanyang will wait. Everything operates, it's just that the controls are not doing just what I want. I should prolly finish painting it and such before undertaking a DRO project, but that just doesn’t seem to be how I roll :>) Spring is coming...

paul
 
I will update this information when I get the resistor and experiment with aggressive slow down times.

John,

Any updates about Braking Resistors? I ask because I have found posts in other forums saying that a lot of Huanyang VFDs don't have all the braking circuitry populated on to the PC Board....
 
I have two of the same units, one on a SB heavy 10 and the other on a grizzly g4003g. Neither unit supports the braking resistor. I bought them about 2 years apart. Not only are the IBGT and optoisolator missing, there is nowhere on the circuit board to put them. I researched and found a partial schematic of the power driver board. It showed the missing parts. I purchased the components but when i took the unit apart, there was no place to mount them! The thing that will confirm that the braking circuit is incomplete is that one of the resistor terminals ( P orR) connects to the circuit board but that trace terminates in a hole that is connected to nothing. It has been 6 or 7 months since I went thru the exercise. I decided that I would build a circuit board to hold the components but have not done it yet. I have played with the DC braking parameters on the unit connected to the Grizzly and it stops from 1000 rpm in about 4 seconds. There is a trade off between stopping fast and getting an error. Just when you have it stopping quickly without setting an error, you put a little more mass in the chuck (bigger rifle barrel) and you get an errot every time you stop! So if you play with the dc brake paramaters, do it with the largest load that you will normally use.
 
Earl,

Good luck with your custom PC board! I am interested to see how it works for you.

I have a 1.5 kw (2 HP) unit and it has the "hole connected to nothing" as you point out. I am using mine on a Bridgeport Series I clone. I have experimented with deceleration time and can stop from 3500 RPM in less than 6 seconds. Since an external breaking resistor is not an option on mine, I have opted for the "coast to a stop" option and use the hand operated spindle brake that I've used for years.
 
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