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Husky A1S - 8x30... Just purchased my first mill.

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MikeInOr

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Thanks guys! I won't worry about leveling the mill for now. This will give me time to look for a good deal on a precision level.

I decided to get an R8 arbor for the big drill chuck I purchased and stay with the 1/2" arbor for the smaller chuck. I figure this will give me the best versatility of precision, maximizing the Z-axis and quick change. The arbors are pretty cheap so I am not investing too much to have both options.

I decided on 1/8" parallels to start with.

I appreciate all the help!
 

wrmiller

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Never really thought about leveling the mill.
Leveling a mill is not critical like leveling a lathe. And 'leveling' a lathe is about getting both ends in the same plane, not leveling the machine to earth's core. :)

Regarding a mill, getting it close (grab a carpenters level) is probably fine. What is important on a mill is the relationship of the spindle to the Z-axis and to the table. Perpendicular to the table, parallel to the z-axis.
 

Bob Korves

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About the only real advantages to leveling a mill are so things do not roll off the table and for being able to use a level to help with setups. I think it is worth doing...
 

Radials

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Mike,

Funny but I actually saw your mill on the trailer heading north bound on hwy 97 back in January. I passed (the seller?) at about the Cooley intersection. I thought to myself that "looks just like my mill". I bought mine last May and it's almost 100% disassembled right now in the middle of a rebuild and overhaul. Mine too is another flavor of the 8x30 mill that sat unused its entire life on the showroom floor of a machinery seller in socal. Coincidentally I'm located in Redmond and setting up a home machine shop as well. Anyway, small world and a local resource. While I have no experience yet running the machine I sure have a lot on disassembling one and the inner workings of it. Glad to see you getting set up yourself.
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MikeInOr

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Hello Radials,

Wow, you are going to have a real beauty when you get her back together! Very nice paint job! I hope you will post a lot of pictures as you reassemble your mill?

Yep, I would guess that would have had to been my mill on the sellers flat bed trailer you saw cruising down 97.

I have only been posting here for a month or so but feel comfortable enough to greet you with a harty "Welcome"! This forum has been the friendliest forum I have found on the internet, some really good guys. Unfortunately this forum has really thrown a wrench in my milling plans! A week after I bought my mill someone on this forum posted a link to a craigslist ad with three too good to be true lathes over in Portland... and I ended up buying one of them. It took a fair bit just getting the lathe unloaded and now my shop is in complete chaos.

If you need a reference for how something on your mill goes back together IM me and I will be happy to let you take a look at mine for a reference if you need to. The only concern I have on my mill is the Y axis has a bit more backlash than I would like. I would be very interested in any pictures of how the Y axis ACME screw and nut go together and if there is any mechanism for tightening the backlash?

I am a complete novice when it comes to a mill but am looking forwards to learning. I noticed COCC has a pretty interesting machining program. Seperate classes on manual lathes, manual mills, CNC mills... etc. What peaked my interest is it is a self paced program so there is no set class time, you just go to their shop when your schedule allows to work on the assignments and I think they have knowlegable instructors there to help you through any questions you may have. I am really considering giving one of the classes a try.
 
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BROCKWOOD

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Welcome Mike! I too am relatively new to the site & especially to the machining hobby. Having an instructor with a self paced class would be fantastic! Of course I attend the UTube University of Machining with most excellent instructors (Keith Fenner, Keith Rucker, Adam Booth, Tom Lipton et al), but I really don't see asking them some of the questions I have. Oh well, all are great for ideas, problem solving etc. Looking forward to your updates!
 

Radials

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Mike,

Thank you, I believe I'll post a rebuild thread just on the rebuild process and some of the note worthy points along the way. I was going to wait until the end, but may start that sooner now that I have found this site. Seems like a great resource and machining community.

I"m glad you scored a lathe as well. I too have a lathe that I picked up 4 months ago that I thought would be a quick clean and lube job that I could sneak in during the mill rebuild. That turned into a full over haul as well! Unfortunately I need both machines to complete the rebuild of the machines. Lol. Anyway... what did you end up getting?

I included a pic of what the Y axis acme nut looks like on the saddle. There is a shcs to adjust the backlash on the screw. I'm not sure if the nut is orientated correctly in the picture I posted as I just sat it there for the photo. Maybe you can tell me which direction the cap screw points. You probably would have to raise the knee all the way up and will have access to it from up inside of it. I have been taking measurements on the parts I know I'll either want to remake or have as a reference if ever needed it, and these nuts are on the list. A riser block for the head is in my plans too, so being able to measure up the machine with it already taken apart is helpful. The X axis nut is the same principle but has two shcs instead of just the one on the Y axis.

I am familiar with the COCC program. I actually went through their CNC program in 2016 which included a fair amount of manual machining. I enjoyed it and there are good instructors there with nice equipment. In the fall of last year I went back to take a welding class to help out more at work. The self pace is helpful. There are times when you might have the whole shop to yourself. Being able to drop in after work to get several hours of shop time in did make it easier to fit into my schedule as well. I recommend talking to them to see what option is best for what you're looking to get out of it.

BROCKWOOD: Big fan of UTube university as well. Like you said, so many good instructors there.

-Nick
Saddle.jpg
 

Z2V

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Radials, like your color choice it’s the same as mine. I don’t want to jac the op’s thread just to say if you post a thread I’ll put it on the watch list. I’ll be taking my spindle apart for bearing replacement soon and variable speed drive. Here is a part breakdown if you don’t have one.
 

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MikeInOr

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Please feel free to post about your mill on this thread if you would like to! I had a hard time finding any information on the 8 x 30's when I was looking to buy. Any pictures or information on 8 x 30 or even 6 x 24's would be great to have.

Nick, thank you for the picture! My mill is shoved in the corner while I am rearranging my shop. I will do my best to get to the nut and get you an answer. Is it holding up your reassemble currently?
 

Z2V

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I’m pretty sure the cap screw is toward the operator on the y nut. I’ll be home within the hour and take a look for sure.
 

Radials

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Radials, like your color choice it’s the same as mine. I don’t want to jac the op’s thread just to say if you post a thread I’ll put it on the watch list. I’ll be taking my spindle apart for bearing replacement soon and variable speed drive. Here is a part breakdown if you don’t have one.
Thank you, and that's a good reference to have. The grizzly parts reference is what I have used until now, but it doesn't show assemblies so this is excellent! My spindle is apart right now and a difference I notice is that mine has two opposing 7207 bearings in the nose while this version has a smaller 6007zz bearing backing it up. The spindle in my machine was completely seized up when I got it because the 30 year old grease in the bearings was broken down. The bearings went through the process of being soaked in acetone for days then wiped, picked at, and aired out several times over and they look great now. They obviously didn't see much use and I really didn't want to spring for the replacements so I'm happy they looked so good after clean up. Good luck with your spindle rebuild and the conversion. I'll be envious of your VFD.

Please feel free to post about your mill on this thread if you would like to! I had a hard time finding any information on the 8 x 30's when I was looking to buy. Any pictures or information on 8 x 30 or even 6 x 24's would be great to have.

Thanks Mike, but I think I'll still put together a rebuild thread (at some point) that will be a bit more generic to the 8x30 line of mills. Like Z2V said I don't want to take your thread off topic either.

Nick, thank you for the picture! My mill is shoved in the corner while I am rearranging my shop. I will do my best to get to the nut and get you an answer. Is it holding up your reassemble currently?
Sounds like you've got a big project on your hands. I've got an engine hoist if you need to borrow one. That has been invaluable in moving and disassembling both my mill and lathe solo.

Yes, the cap screw is toward the operator, crank handle.
Awesome, Thanks!

-Nick
 
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MikeInOr

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Thank you for the offer Nick! The mill was about on the edge of where I felt comfortable with my engine hoist (great investment... like you said) for unloading. I built a gantry out of wood to unload the lathe. At ~1500 lbs the lathe is my heaviest machine and required the gantry to keep everything safe.

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I appreciate your endorsement of the COCC machining program. I am not looking to change careers, just acquire the skills to use my toys safely and effectively. I have been a woodworker for a very long time with a real weakness for old WW machines. My machinist buddy that would reproduce the worn out parts in what ever WW machine I was rebuilding moved away so I figured I would take the plunge into machining (plus it is something I have always wanted to do!). I work by the airport so the COCC campus is very convenient... and a class will motivate me to spend the time learning.

I look forwards to your rebuild thread! (I know it can be kind of hard to do a rebuild and keep up a rebuild thread going along with it... but it would be great if you could!)

P.S. Z2V - thank you for jumping in with the nut orientation... this is such a great forum!
 
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Z2V

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Mike
Like the gantry, did you bolt it together or is it nailed? Casters?

Radials
Interesting that our spindles have different bearing configurations. Sounds like after you clean out all the old dried grease you will have a like new machine!

I’ll be following along with you guys

Cheers
 

MikeInOr

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The gantry is mostly bolted together. The uprights are three 2 x 4's glued and screwed (Laminated). The top is three 2 x 10's bolted together. The rest is bolted together so I can quickly and easily disassemble it into 5 pieces and stow it away when not in use. I ran out of bolts for the upper braces so they are just screwed on for now. The 2 x 10's sit directly on top of the laminated 2 x 4 uprights. Without any weight the upright 2 x 4's sit about 1/4" above the ground. When I put weight on the gantry the uprights touch the ground and lock in the Y braces nice and tight. None of the lifting weight is on the joints, the lifting weight is directly transferred to the floor via the laminated uprights.

The uprights are 8' long... I should have gone 10' long. Oh well, easily replaced with 10' 2 x 4's later. In the lower picture you can see I came up 6" short.

You can kind of see the bases in this picture. Pull out the uprights and the Y braces fold down between the 2 x 4 bases. The Y braces are offset so they fold flat between the bases for storage.
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The three 2 x 10's on top can be lifted into place one at a time which makes assembly a lot easier than trying to lift a trippled 2 x 10 eight feet into the air by myself. No casters... the plan is to stow it when I don't need it. I might add casters if the need ever arises but casters rated for a decent amount of weight are pretty pricey.


And thank you!... I am kind of proud of my gantry. With the 1500 lb lathe it didn't even creak. :)

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Chipper5783

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Never really thought about leveling the mill.
I agree, it is not a requirement to level a mill. But on the general principle of craftsmanship and attention to detail get it sort of level and so it does not rock. If your machine is level, that can be a help when setting up an awkward piece - you can set that piece at what ever orientation, knowing what the machine orientation (it is level).
 

Z2V

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The gantry is mostly bolted together. The uprights are three 2 x 4's glued and screwed (Laminated). The top is three 2 x 10's bolted together. The rest is bolted together so I can quickly and easily disassemble it into 5 pieces and stow it away when not in use. I ran out of bolts for the upper braces so they are just screwed on for now. The 2 x 10's sit directly on top of the laminated 2 x 4 uprights. Without any weight the upright 2 x 4's sit about 1/4" above the ground. When I put weight on the gantry the uprights touch the ground and lock in the Y braces nice and tight. None of the lifting weight is on the joints, the lifting weight just gets directly transferred to the floor via the laminated uprights.

The uprights are 8' long... I should have gone 10' long. Oh well, easily replaced with 10' 2 x 4's later. In the lower picture you can see I came up 6" short.

You can kind of see the bases in this picture. Pull out the uprights and the Y braces fold down between the 2 x 4 bases. The Y braces are offset so they fold flat between the bases for storage.
View attachment 257940

The three 2 x 10's on top can be lifted into place one at a time which makes assembly a lot easier than trying to lift a trippled 2 x 10 eight feet into the air by myself. No casters... the plan is to stow it when I don't need it. I might add casters if the need ever arises but casters rated for a decent amount of weight are pretty pricey.


And thank you!... I am kind of proud of my gantry. With the 1500 lb lathe it didn't even creak. :)

View attachment 257941
I’m impressed, well done
 

Radials

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"And thank you!... I am kind of proud of my gantry. With the 1500 lb lathe it didn't even creak. :)"

Bigger future machine purchases here you come!
 
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glennyb

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Ulma, thank you. Very helpful! I was just looking at a set of the Shars collets on ebay last night and realized I had no idea what to look for as far as quality tooling that I would not regret purchasing later. The recommendations are very helpful! Thanks for the tip on using a collet to hold a drill chuck for quick tool changing... something I hadn't thought of but it makes a lot of sense.

A couple pics from the CL add.
View attachment 252793View attachment 252794View attachment 252795
 

glennyb

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Hi, I have recently acquired a similar "HUSKY" mill, except mine has a factory 3 speed drive for the Y axis .
The hand wheel on the Z axis has been replaced with a cheap plastic one, and I want to replace it.
I see on yours it is cast wheel could you please tell me the diameter of it.
Thank-you

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Andrew R Stewart

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New here as of now. My name is Andy and I'm in Rochester NY. I have a Sampson 8x30 mill that is a bro of your Husky. No chance you got a manual with yours:)? I have some goals with mine but will take a while as I'm no machinist. The stuff I get paid to fix can be lifted up with only a few fingers. Andy
 

Z2V

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New here as of now. My name is Andy and I'm in Rochester NY. I have a Sampson 8x30 mill that is a bro of your Husky. No chance you got a manual with yours:)? I have some goals with mine but will take a while as I'm no machinist. The stuff I get paid to fix can be lifted up with only a few fingers. Andy
Andrew, welcome to H-M. You might take a look at the Grizzly G0731. I have basically the same mill with the Enco name.
Grizzly has a manual here that might show you what you need to know.
https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-8-x-30-Vertical-Mill-with-Power-Feed/G0731
 

Andrew R Stewart

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Z2V- Thanks for that link. I have saved and printed out the docs and will spend some cold time today in the garage looking at certain elements of the mill. Andy
 
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