I could really use some advice about making a part...

The Fishing Hobby

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I have gotten a lot done on a lathe that I'm cleaning up to use and I started a thread about it here: https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/new-to-me-compact-8-cleanup-thread.74067/
I didn't notice that the cross slide lead screw mount was broken until I was taking it apart. This one looks like someone either used solder of possibly jb weld to try and keep it pieced together and painted over it, but when I took it off, it just fell apart into 3 pieces. It seemed to work great but it can't be good to leave it pieced together like it was. I'm good at taking things apart and putting them back together, but I'm no machinist (yet :D). Can anyone tell me how I could make a part like this and have it work out well? I'd love to do one in aluminum if possible. I priced used cross slides on eBay but they are really pricey and they would still have the zamak screw mount that could possibly cause problems later.
Could anyone give me some pointers on a way to tackle making something like that. I only have an older 7x10 HF lathe and drill press so I'm limited on tools to help with the job. I do have a lot of wood working tools (table saw, bandsaw, routers ect) but I'm afraid they won't be real helpful for this.

Anyone have an advise on what I could make given the tools I currently own? Thanks for advice anyone may have!IMG_20181108_084816.jpgIMG_20181108_084826.jpgIMG_20181108_084903.jpgIMG_20181108_084916.jpg
 
Can you give us an indication of size, please? Maybe a shot of one of the pieces next to a small scale or something? I have a feeling the part is small, just not sure how small.

-frank
 
Can you give us an indication of size, please? Maybe a shot of one of the pieces next to a small scale or something? I have a feeling the part is small, just not sure how small.

-frank
Sure thing! It is about 2.5" long, 2-3/8" across the flange that mounts to the cross slide and the round part on the crank handle side is about 2-5/8" in diameter. The hollow bar like section in between is about 1" across and about 9/16" tall. Here are a few more pictures:IMG_20181108_220834.jpgIMG_20181108_221555.jpgIMG_20181108_221627.jpgIMG_20181108_221636.jpg
 
What about turning the basic shape from round stock. It would basically look like a dumbbell. Bore the center hole while in the lathe. Then, using a hacksaw or bandsaw, cut out the shape of the mounting flange on one end. Then drill the two mounting holes.
 
What about turning the basic shape from round stock. It would basically look like a dumbbell. Bore the center hole while in the lathe. Then, using a hacksaw or bandsaw, cut out the shape of the mounting flange on one end. Then drill the two mounting holes.
That sounds like it might work! I was just looking around online and noticed the Grizzly G4000 looks like it is very similar to the Emco Compact 8 that I have. That part looks very much like mine. I may see if I can order one from them and then possibly make a better one later. That would allow me to get it up and running...if it would actually work.
 
I wonder, would you be able to make it out of one round of aluminum on the old lathe. Start with a round cylinder, neck down the centre to make kind of a spool shape, drill through the centre for the lead screw. Dismount from the lathe and slice (hacksaw) two segments off one end to form the rectangular flange. If the centre part needs clearance on the top, file or grind that flat. This scenario provides for the lead screw to be totally enclosed in the aluminum, but I don't think that really matters much. I suspect the open part of the original was just to facilitate casting without having to use a core mould.
image.png

I see others have responded whilst I was fooling around sketching! ;)

-frank
 
I wonder, would you be able to make it out of one round of aluminum on the old lathe. Start with a round cylinder, neck down the centre to make kind of a spool shape, drill through the centre for the lead screw. Dismount from the lathe and slice (hacksaw) two segments off one end to form the rectangular flange. If the centre part needs clearance on the top, file or grind that flat. This scenario provides for the lead screw to be totally enclosed in the aluminum, but I don't think that really matters much. I suspect the open part of the original was just to facilitate casting without having to use a core mould.
View attachment 279389

I see others have responded whilst I was fooling around sketching! ;)

-frank
That is a great idea too. I just checked the lead screw and it is the same diameter throughout that end of it so that could work too!
 
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