I finally got around to installing a quill DRO on my PM935.

[RJSakowski]

It's great to see a modification that's aesthetically pleasing as well as functional. A win-win.

 

[rabler]

You do very nice work!

 

[Ken226]

Thank you.

 

[diamond]

Thanks. A pretty recent project as well. 1/8" aluminum sheet, cut cerakoted and engraved with a drag tool.

Nicely done on the quill mount. I also noticed that panel. The whole DRO/control panel setup looks awesome. Did you happen to document that project? Would love to see more about what you did there.

 

[Ken226]

Nicely done on the quill mount. I also noticed that panel. The whole DRO/control panel setup looks awesome. Did you happen to document that project? Would love to see more about what you did there.

Yes, I did. I habitually document everything I do, in the form of CAD drawings. Especially when building the wiring harness. In a few years, when I've forgotten everything, it'll come in handy for repairs/upgrades. The wiring diagrams have been extremely useful on my CNC mill, which has underwent several major upgrades since I built it a decade ago.

I created a thread here, on the mill panel when I did it.

Lathe panel is done. Started my mill VFD control panel. With pics.

The lathe panel is finished. Just waiting for a small 120v to 12V power supply to show up in the mail, to power the tachometer. It's already wired up, with 4 connectors in the electronics enclosure to plug into the 12v power supply. Since that's done, I spent yesterday building up...

www.hobby-machinist.com

The housing was a "project box" from amazon. I used my CNC mill to cut the holes for the switches and tach, The switches and tach are from Ebay. The front panel was then cerakoted, and drag engraved using my CNC.

If you want one and you don't have access to a CNC, mail me the project box front panel and switches, and I'll hook u up. I have several cerakote colors that are well past the expiration date, I've been thinning with acetone and using for projects like this.

 

[Ken226]

This M-Sure readout seems to turn itself off after about 10 minutes of inactivity.

It also turns itself on whenever it's moved. Even If I turn it off using the on/off button, it comes on as soon as it's moved.

I used a 1-2-3 block to check the accuracy of it, after it turns itself off. I pulled the quill down against the 1-2-3 block, sitting upright, set zero, and locked the quill. Then left it alone until it turned itself off.

Afterwards, I left it turned off and unlocked the quill. Then pulled it down against the 1-2-3 block, letting it turn itself on. I did it a few times, with the 1-2-3 block in various orientations, and it reads accurately. So, I guess this thing is never actually off? Both the on/off button and letting it auto-off justs turns off the display.

I wonder how that's going to effect the battery life?

Is that how the Igaging, Shars and Motutoyo units work?


I used the quill DRO some today, to make a table mount 1/2" T slot base for my edge technology work stop arm. It was a quick little 30 minute project after work, to try out the quill DRO.

Using the quill DRO in conjunction with the fine feed handwheel makes screw head counter bores a snap.