I have made the decision to CNC it!

OakRidgeGuy

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Steve,

What are the normally closed terminals? Where should I connect the other wire after connecting one to the pin 10?
 

Hawkeye

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If your mushroom (stop) switch only has one set of terminals, they are probably N.C. (conducting when not 'activated') If there are two sets, you'll have to use an ohm meter or other conductivity tester to determine which are N.O or N.C. (Or just read the notations on the switch.)

The switch will commonly connect pin 10 to ground when in it's normal state. When operated (emergency stop), it will break the circuit, allowing pin 10 to go high and telling the computer to shut the program down.
 

OakRidgeGuy

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Are you talking about the ground that I have on the chassey of the box or the ground pin that is on the breakout board?
 

jumps4

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a ground terminal on the breakout board.
merry christmas
steve
 

OakRidgeGuy

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Ok, it is time to do a review of what we have done so far asto the wiring of the control box.

First, I did one thing backwards, but I decided to keep that format so that things would remain the same on the main power wires.
White is neutral, Black is the load or “hot”.
So the power plug, wired the black wire to pin 2 on the switch, then pin 1 on the switch to the load input on the power supply.
Neutral from the power plug to pin 3 on the switch, then from pin 3 to the neutral input on the power supply.
I checked continuity from each point to ensure that when the switch is activated, that the off position there would not be any continuity between the switch and the power supply.
The Ground wire from the power plug is connected to the chassy of the box.
Connected the neutral from the 48v negative to the negative on the X axis controller and jumped to Y axis and the from the Y axis to the Zaxis.
Connected the load from the 48v positive to the positive ofthe X axis and repeated the same steps as with the neutral wire, connecting to the positive points on the controllers.
The Ground pin on the power supply is connected to the chassy of the box.
On the motor controllers I connected a red wire that will be attached to the USB cable for the 5v input to the controllers in the following manner.
Lead in wire to the X axis Pull+ (5v) and jumped to the Dir+(5v)
Jumped from the X axis Dir+ (5v) to the Y axis Pull+ (5v)
Jumped from the Y axis Pull+ (5v) to the Y axis Dir+ (5v)
Jumped from the Y axis Dir+ (5v) to the Z axis Pull+ (5v)
Jumped from the Z axis Pull+ (5v) to the Z axis Dir+ (5v)

From the breakout board pin 2 to the X axis Pull- pin
From the breakout board pin 3 to the X axis Dir- pin
From the breakout board pin 4 to the Y axis Pull- pin
From the breakout board pin 5 to the Y axis Dir- pin
From the breakout board pin 6 to the Z axis Pull- pin
From the breakout board pin 7 to the Z axis Dir- pin

The Emergency Stop switch is connected to Pin 10 and the Ground on the breakout board.

The 18/4 shielded wire with outer ground wrap is connected in the following
From the each axis controller to it’s appropriate motor
Black wire from the A+ pin on the controller to the black wire on the motor.
Green wire from the A- pin on the controller to the green wire on the motor.
Red wire from the B+ pin on the controller to the red wire on the motor.
White wire from the B- pin on the controller to the blue wire on the motor.
The outer ground wrap were jumped together and connected tothe ground on the chassy. This wire will not be connected to the frame of the motor.
I have not connected the USB wire yet to the 5v lead in wire to the controllers.. That is all I have left to do. Which wire gets connected to the red 5v input wire to the hot side of the controllers?
 

jumps4

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without seeing your usb and checking it myself with a volt meter i cannot tell you the wires to use.
you will have to locate the 5v+ and 5v- wires with a volt meter
everything else i read seems to be ok
steve
 

OakRidgeGuy

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I have been away for a while, wrapped up in some other things.. Ok, when setting up Mach3, under ports and pins, determining the port that I am going to be using, since the UC100 is from what I understand, a USBto 28 pin connector, I can presume that instead of using port 1, that I will be using port 2. Under the Device Mgr, do I use I have 5 listings.

Intel(R) 82801FB/FBM USB Universal Host Controller – 2658

Intel(R) 82801FB/FBM USB Universal Host Controller – 2659

Intel(R) 82801FB/FBM USB Universal Host Controller – 265A

Intel(R) 82801FB/FBM USB Universal Host Controller – 265B

Intel(R) 82801FB/FBM USB2 Enhanced Host Controller – 265C

Which one do I choose to put into the ports and pins dialogueto correctly get the USB talking to the breakout board?
 

jumps4

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no uc100 goes out to a db25 connector
you set up mach3 for port one as normal and get everything working
then install the uc100 and it does all the required changes
steve
 

OakRidgeGuy

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Ok good, I have been watching some vids from youtube on the set up for Mach3 and I want to make sure that things are correct. I have had a small set back and still need to order a couple of things.. which hopefully will be on tues.. Just need the UC100 and some of those connectors.. also thought about going ahead and getting some of those Nema 23 covers too,.,

Any good idea of where to get some of those plastic cable tubes that will protect the wire from the environment? Don't want the square flexable kind, more thinking of the round kind. I am thinking ahead, down the line so to speak so that I will be more ready for when I go from dry milling to wet milling.
 

OakRidgeGuy

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Ok Under Config, Ports and Pins, Motor Outputs

Step Pin Dir Pin

X #2 #3
Y #4 #5
Z #6 #7

And that the Step Port and Dir Port are all set to Port #1
 
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OakRidgeGuy

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Ok,

I set the E-Stop to pin #10 at this time, but didn't assign it a port yet. The computer is not up to the motors yet.. So I will have to go back later and set that up.. for now I just have it set to Port 0 and Pin 10.
 

jumps4

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that all looks correct
dont forget to reboot your pc after getting everything set up or it wont work right
and i'd leave estop that way until it is all running
you can stop mach3 by hitting the space bar or esc key at any time also
steve
 

OakRidgeGuy

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Well, I will admit that the post that I make are also a benefit to me as well. It helps me reaffirm what I am thinking.. The process is slow sometimes for me.
 

OakRidgeGuy

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Steve,

I missed that part that you said about rebooting the computer, though, after I had made the changes, I did reboot the program.

Doc
 

n3480h

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You guys are trouble makers. I've been following this thread for several weeks, since buying and setting up my HF X2. I've cleaned and reworked my 7x10 lathe. I've bought tooling, cutting tools, a new lathe chuck, and a LMS belt drive conversion for the X2 . . . all the while trying to resist the temptation of converting the little mill to CNC. It's your fault, this thread is breaking me down. Then I manually laid out and machined a set of 8 custom clamps to hold small parts for CMM inspection at work. While the little clamps turned out prety well and function well, it was obvious that they would have been far faster, more accurate, and easier to make with a CNC controlled mill.

To make matters worse, friends and acquaintances have learned that I have small machine shop equipment, and they want parts made. And they pay for them, happily. The original need was to just make a few parts for my experimental aircraft and other projects. See what you've done?

Seriously, thanks to all of the participants in this thread for being so clear and detailed. It may take me a year to catch up, but I will catch up. Your help is sincerely appreciated.

Tom
 

jumps4

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welcome aboard lol
i get as much fun out of making the machines as using them
i just purchased another complete set of motors controllers and power supply because it was a good deal....
I'v totally lost it, I dont have a clue what to build with them yet :nuts:
steve
 

n3480h

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Well Steve, its good to have materials at hand when the good idea light comes on, lol. This happens to be why I can no longer fit my truck into my garage. Seems I have more "resources" than good ideas.

Tom
 

Hawkeye

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Yeah, Tom. These guys are bad. They got me sucked in, too.
 

hecirp

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I am a little late in getting in to this thread.

I have been using Windows 7 Pro for about 3 years. Have the XP simulation on it, and have found that XP simulation does not always play nicely with software. 7 often interferes and closes XP and puts me back to 7. It is OK for a house computer, but would not want to have it running my cnc mill.

I have a dedicated computer with XP on my Bridgeport clone, using Mach 3. I did the conversion about 4 years ago, and it is very stable.

Would add my voice to the folks who have suggested a dedicated XP which never goes on the internet. Also it should probably be a desk top, because the folks trying to run laptops have had a lot of problems. And the desk top is cheap, and easy to fix and replace components if needed.

Good luck, and hang in there.

Harvey
 

OakRidgeGuy

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Ok, I have been working on the mill and Mach3, when on the MDI screen and move the x or y axis with single line g code, that axis will move, but when I do the same thing with the z axis, it will not move. You can hear the motor, and the rdo moves, but the head does not move. But, if I move it with the keyboard or with the mpg, it will move.
 

jumps4

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zero z well above table but not all the way up
type in the mdi line
G1 F10 press enter
z1.0 press enter
and tell me if it goes up 1 inch
if it does
go to mach3 config
motor tuning
and reduce the velocity to 30 and acceleration to 10
click save
open mach3 config and click save setting on the bottom of the list
and try again
see if that works
make sure z can move up 1 inch and zero Z
type in the mdi
G0 press enter
Z1.0 press enter
should move up 1 inch
if it dont
zip your mach3mill.xml file located in c:\mach3 and post it here i can check it
steve
 
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hecirp

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Someone may have already said this so please excuse if so.

I have used windows 7 pro with xp simulation from microsoftfor about 3 years.. The virtual XP is not very compatible with a lot of my XP programs which run well on a regular XP computer. I have basically quit using the virtual program for anything.

I converted a Bridgeport clone about 4 years ago, and run it on an old desktop with XP using various drawing programs, and converting the files with BobCad 21.

You may want to check the mach 3 website for compatibility with virtual XP before you go in that direction. There was already a suggestion that an old desktop with xp would not cost much and IMO is a much better solution.

Hope this is helpful,

Harvey Price
 

Dr.Fiero

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Wen you consider how cheap an old stand alone machine is (I've bought several IBM P4 desktop boxes with a licensed copy of Xp for $100!), its totally not worth having anything other than a 100% dedicated machine for your mill etc.

The notion of not having it on the net is a bit odd. I couldn't really do it for the way I work. I sit in comfort at my desktop upstairs doing my cad work, then save all my files to my google drive. Walk down to the shop, fire up the mill machine, and just call up the files. Don't even have to worry about my intranet working or not.

Just limit your surfing to anything but reputable places, and have security essentials running. Never had any issues. Mind you I've been in the computer biz since the days of 8086s with 64k of ram (and before!).
 

OakRidgeGuy

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well, got the machine working fine, one small problem I need help with in fixing. (not the Solidworks problem, that is still ongoing). Ok, I used the D2nc wizard to cut a circle, which the machine did. Using a .125 mill, I directed the machine to cut a .250 outside circle. After measuring the circle, it measured .265. Asked again to cut a streight line,1 inch. When I measured the line, it was 1.118 long.
So what is it that I need to do to correct these errors?
 

Dr.Fiero

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Have you used a dial indicator, and set the steps under the settings page? The one where you tell it to move "x", then punch in what it actually moved.

It sort of sounds like your count is off.
 
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