I want to cut my first gear

Having found your post an hour or so after it was posted, I wanted to give it some thought and take a nap before answering. You obviously know what you're doing, to some extent. So my first question is if you already have a machine. Either a lathe or a mill, it doesn't matter. It's simply to point you in the right direction. I have a Craftsman lathe (Atlas build) as well as an Asian machine. (Grizzly) The Atlas machine has 16DP 14-1/2*PA gears. The Asian has Modulus 1 (25.4 DP) 20*PA. As it happens, I also run an Atlas mill, 24DP (I think) and an Asian vertical mill which also has Mod.1 gears. The point is to study your machine(s) and use the same gear pattern. Even Asian gear cutters from eBay cost a pretty penny for a set. You want something that will be useful in the future.

I would prefer a smaller gear (~Mod.1) for a benchtop machine. 16 DP gears are large enough to be cumbersome for a small (less than wheelbarrow sized) project. It all depends on what, if any, machines you already have. Pressure angle (PA) is a matter of what gear you decide on. Diametrical gears more commonly use 14-1/2 degrees for lower friction. Modulus gears more commonly use 20 degrees for strength. Like above, it would depend on your own machine(s) as reference. Gear cutters can be found for more esoteric pressure angles, but the cost can be much higher. I'd say stick to the more common design for cost savings alone.

Some time back, I repaired a "lemon squeezer" for a friend that had a small cafe'. Your project sounds a lot like that one. The gear was (probably) a Mod.1.25, call it 18 or 20 DP. All I remember was the gears were smaller than my Atlas and larger than my Asian machine. I made the replacement the hard way (without a cutter) from brass. I don't know how it stood up. I have a small (1/2 Ton) arbor press. It has a rack and pinion about the size of my Atlas lathe, but I figure it's metric. In any case, it would be way over kill for a capper. I would say look to eBay for a "button press" as a starter idea. The price I saw was low enough to make a good pattern.

Material is another concern of relevance. Gears can be made from paper, wood, plastic, non-ferrous metal, all the way up to steel alloys. I worked with a fellow that was building a replica clock from paper. Gluing up a sheet at a time to make the gears. But for automotive steering, one would want high quality steel. For the first timer, aluminium would be a good choice for something not critical. Fairly cheap, and easy to work. And easy to make another when you make a mistake. My Atlas has some plastic thread cutting gears, and some ZAMAK. External gears are ZAMAK, internal(read high load) gears are steel. Some may be cast iron, I don't know and it really doesn't matter.

Cutting a rack has some off the wall requirements regarding length. There have been several methods given above. There's a lot of knowledge on this site. If I needed a custom rack, I would build it on my shaper, using an involute cutter in a custom made tool holder. You're on your own there. I have a large quantity of racks salvaged from the aircraft industry. I don't know the tooth size but I suspect they are metric. They appear to be Mod.1, but I've never used one so never pursued it any further. Just a situation where they were cheap because they weren't selling. I might need one some day, or Wife will sell for scrap when I don't matter any more.

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It's hard to determine the actual force required to crimp a cap on a bottle, but it's a decent amount. I have a hand capper and with the leverage advantage, it requires quite a push.

Here's a commercial version in action. I would estimate the arm goes through 120 degrees of swing, the ram moves up and down 1/2" to 3/4", and the arm length is about 12" to 16".

Let me take whack at this.

So, taking the minimum arm length that's 120/360 * 12" * pi = 12.5" of motion on the arm. The ratio would be 12" / (3/4") = 16:1. So, 1 to 2 lbs of force on the arm would give 16 to 32 lbs of force on the ram and capper. Sound right?

I think this means the ram needs to move 3/4" in 1/3 of the pinion's rotation.
PD = pitch diameter
DP = diametral pitch
N = number of teeth
OD = outer diameter

pi * PD * 1/3 = 3/4"
or
PD = 3/4" / (1/3 * pi) = .72"

DP = N/PD
or
PD = N/DP

For N=14, DP=20, PD=0.7000"
For N=16, DP=22, PD=0.7272"
For N=20, DP=28, PD=0.7143"

I believe these calculations are correct.

 
So, I was thinking of going with a DP of 20 or 22 with a 14.5* pressure angle. However, when I look at the tapered endmills listed on the All Industrial website, I don't see a 14.5* per side EM listed. They do have a 15* per side EM. Is that close enough or should I stick with 20*?
 
It isn't that hard to grind a cutter by eyeballing it to a known gear sample. May not be perfect but it works. I made an arbor for mine rather than using a fly cutter. Has the tool sticking out @ 90° rather than at an angle.
As a test I just used my spin indexer to see if the gear worked. Quick & easy setup. Used a piece of unknown plastic for the test gear. Next test was using my rotary table to get the correct # or teeth. The bulk of the RT is a problem & requires using a tail stock support. Keeping track of positions, # of turns etc. slowed progress as did using aluminum for the test gear. After quite a bit of running as a change gear I could see the wear marks showed less than ideal shape but it seemed to work fine. I've had an indexing head on order for quite some time. Due in September.

For cutting a rack you could grind a D bit but I think it would be difficult without a tool & cutter grinder. I've done it "semi" successfully on the tool & cutter grinder. I'm going to try it with O1 steel and the indexing head when it comes. Just to see if I can.
 
Whether to do module or imperial probably would depend on which you expect to have future uses for. If your lathe is older and uses imperial gears, you might want to go that route, but with most more modern equipment being made in Asia, it most likely has module gears. This applies to any kind of equipment and not just lathes. Personally, I do just about everything in metric, so I would get module cutters of the appropriate size. Regardless of which you choose, the size calculations will be the same to calculate the torque they need to transmit. As far as pressure angle, 20 degrees is the modern standard, so that is what I would go with so that if you buy cutters, they are more likely to be used again in the future.

Here is an alternative, this video shows cutting a gear with just a slitting saw.
 
Okay, I think I'm going with a metric gear instead of imperial gears based on the fact that I have a mini-lathe with metric gears (M1) and the PA is 20 which is easier to find tapered end mills for cutting the rack.

Current design thoughts are:
M1.25
N=18
PD=22.5mm=.886"
OD=(N+2)/DP=(N+2)/(25.4/M)=M(N+2)/25.4=0.984"

This will give me a little more ram travel at the expense of less force which I don't think I need.

So, does anyone have a good source for metric gear cutters? I see a lot on eBay coming from China. Are these decent? I've read a lot of people who order these get missing and duplicate cutters for the set.

Also, who makes an R8 arbor for these?
 

I will write with more detail tonight
 
I just searched "involute gear cutters" on Amazon on eBay, and returned a variety of complete sets in a few select sizes, selling for prices between $60 and $120. I looked at Shars and MSC, and couldn't even find involute gear cutters. I found some at McMaster-Carr, but only in a handful of DP sizes, ranging in price from $72 to $155 per cutter. Then I tried Travers Tool Co. They have the best selection I've found by far. They have a bunch of metric cutters They have M1.25 in both 14.5° and 20° for about $100 per cutter. You can even get DP2 cutters if you want to repair a steam locomotive or something, and those will set you back $560 per cutter.

Since you're doing a specific project where you only need one gear, you could actually get away with buying just the one cutter you need. Pay $100 for a known really good cutter, plus whatever you come up with for an arbor. Or you could get an entire set of Chinese mystery cutters that are probably good enough for the same money.

I've never done anything sufficiently critical to justify spending the kind of money it costs to buy the good stuff, so I plan projects based on whatever sizes are actually available. On eBay right now, one option is a M1.25 20° set for $88 plus shipping, direct from China. I'll leave it to you to dig deeper.

McMaster-Carr lists a lot of different parameters for these things. Two different keyway widths, two different arbor hole diameters, and maybe other stuff. I don't understand some of the parameters. You'll need to match an arbor to whatever you end up with.

I got a set of DP16 14.5° cutters off Amazon with a matching arbor included. I just got some cheap random set to try my hand at making gears. The gears I'm actually going to be making for a project have cycloidal teeth, and I have to grind my own cutters. I haven't yet thunk up a use for any gear I could cut with these off the shelf involute gear cutters, so I haven't really gone to school on that stuff, and can't give you much guidance selecting or making an arbor.
 
Yeah, you are correct. It is hard to find a supplier that sells gear cutters. I looked at the same suppliers and found Travers the most broad, complete selection. MC has a very limited amount of gear cutters.

I guess gear cutters are not high selling. I might want to go with Travers for the one cutter I need and bite the bullet on price. I'm hesitant of buying from China although I have done it in the pass with success.
 
I have some racks of unknown specifics, similar to what is used on lathe bedways an drill press tables.

They are listed in the for sale area.



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