identify old lathe

Belts are measured for width by measuring the width of the belt groove at the outside diameter of the pulley, the widest part of the belt. The length is measured along the outside of the belt, or by measuring around the pulleys at the outside diameter of where the belt rides. Do not use automotive belts, use industrial belts. Places like Grainger can help you, also lawnmower and other power equipment shops.
 
markba633csi said:
I believe that particular part could be replaced with a later version
What say Robert?
Click to expand...

I'm not Robert but for the few Atlas manuals that I looked at it appears that the 6" Atlas and the 10" Atlas had different part numbers and neither matched the 9". I did not do an exhaustive search. If Atlas/Clausing doesn't have the part they might have part drawings. I'm not sure how far back their records go. I'm thinking a functional but maybe not so pretty replacement would be possible to make on the lathe itself, even without a working lead screw or a milling attachment. Did it come with change gears and other gear train parts? Without the gear train the lead screw is not functional anyway.

https://www.clausing-industrial.com/partsService.asp
 
Looks like one of your gearbox gears is laying in your tray below gearbox.might want to check all of them.3 if I remember correctly
 
CluelessNewB said:
I'm not Robert but for the few Atlas manuals that I looked at it appears that the 6" Atlas and the 10" Atlas had different part numbers and neither matched the 9". I did not do an exhaustive search. If Atlas/Clausing doesn't have the part they might have part drawings. I'm not sure how far back their records go. I'm thinking a functional but maybe not so pretty replacement would be possible to make on the lathe itself, even without a working lead screw or a milling attachment. Did it come with change gears and other gear train parts? Without the gear train the lead screw is not functional anyway.

https://www.clausing-industrial.com/partsService.asp
Click to expand...
 
You could easily make a leadscrew bracket from a square aluminum block with a hole and a bronze bushing. It doesn't HAVE to be pretty it just needs to work. For belts I prefer the segmented belts as they reduce vibration, can be changed without removing the spindle (huge advantage) and can be adjusted for size.
 
If you have a welder and a drill/drill press you can knock one of those out easy.... Get some DOM tubing and turn it down until the ID is inline with the lead screw and weld it to a plate....
 
You can measure the width of the vee in the pulley s , if there 1/2 " wrap a 1/2" tape measure around the pulleys where they turn keeping the tape flat in the top read direct it should be close to perfect . Another way is rope in the vee width size wrapped around and then measure that. It's an old way but you could measure everything and look in the machinist hand book for the theory to find it.
 
The rope method works great, it gets you really close
 
Thanks for all the info. I really appreciate it. For someone like me just starting out in home hobby machining , it is nice to have a community to go to for help.
 
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