If You Built a Reloading Press...

silverhawk

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I am seriously thinking about drawing up some DIY press plans. My curiosity is getting the better of me now, as I want to get into reloading, but I loath either the expense of quality presses, or the lack of quality in the more affordable.

As well, I've heard that everything has it's good points, and everything also has bad points. So, the engineer in me (a bit like my fly-tying vise build) is saying "I can't afford a $500 press, but I can build one for $800". However, I don't know what I'd be looking for, or what I'd need. If you were to build one, what would it look like? What changes would you make from your current presses? What design do each of you consider the best (and for what reason)? I'd like it to be usable for both rifle and handgun.

I personally have heard great things about the design of the Forster Co-Ax when it comes to competition loads. Is that a good style, or are there better styles out there? Should I use something like an arbor press instead of the lever actions?
 
The lever action presses are designed to provide maximum force at the end of the stroke, needed for re sizing; a lot of thought went into the design of commercially available presses, an arbor press does not fit that parameter. When I started handloading over 50 years ago, a cousin's husband suggested Herter's presses, which I purchased, they are heavy cast iron, and well made, but they do possess a few drawbacks: for one, they use a larger diameter die than what is currently available, so an adaptor is used.
 
I have been thinking about this too. I wonder if my mill would do the trick?
The leverage issue works against this idea as well, plus the difficulty of mounting the dies and shell holder, better just buy a used press of basic design, a fancy multi function machine may be worthwhile if one is loading hundreds of shells often, but not for small lots.
 
I am getting back into reloading, and have a Lyman All American 8 on backorder. Like my old Dillon 650 I used during my competition days, I'll make things to fix and/or improve on the original design of the press. This way I don't have to kill what few brain cells I have left working out the numbers for the mechanical leverage I'd need to make one from scratch. :)
 
The pressure may cause this whole idea to be scrapped, then.

However, here's kind of what I am thinking (could compound gears be used to increase the pressure?). I'd like to keep the components as easily accessible as possible. Dimensions not yet forth coming, as I'm "thinking out load". First is the base, made out of precision-ground round tool steel, two gear racks (one for each column) and 1/2" thick cold rolled stock :

20200711_142949.jpg

As I think it through, it might be a good idea to use two 1/2" plates for the bottom so that one could add a through hole (allowing for primer removal or even dies of some sort). If not two places, even just two pieces of stock on each end to get the base off of the bench/table far enough where you can let the primers fall.

20200711_144009.jpg

Next is the moving "carriage" at the top - something that should be fairly simple to make. It would be made of a solid block of stock (might be harder to source for some people). It would have three bores for the structure - two in the back to take bushings for the base columns, and one cross bore for the pinion (to intersect with the racks). Two smaller places are added to the ends to keep it from being too complicated, and those two places allow for the bushings for the pinion to keep it solid.

Then the rotating handle is a simple mechanism.

I think all you'd need at that point is the through-hole in the base, and the through hole in the carriage so that you can put the dies, etc in. It's overly simple, and I'd like to keep it simple, but allow the most variations. I am worried about strength, and in that case, I'd put the casing work directly between the columns.

Steps :
  1. Square the carriage stock
  2. Square the base
  3. Drill the column holes
  4. Transfer punch the column holes to the base (should keep the columns square)
  5. Drill the carriage out more for bushings, and install bushings to match your round rod stock for the columns
  6. drill the pinion cross hole
  7. Cut a keyway to match your gear rack into the carriage
  8. Drill the column holes in the base for the thread of choice (3/4"-16 in my case would be 45/64" drill bit)
  9. Counterbore 1/32" deep with a 1" diameter of those column holes (to simply get the edge of the column under the top edge of the base
  10. Make the columns using precision-ground steel rod 1" in diameter - in a lathe, turn down one end to 3/4" and then thread to match your base thread
  11. Install the columns temporarily to the base, and set the carriage in place. Do this with it laying on the "back" so that the carriage doesn't drop
  12. Slide in the gear rack into one slot (only do one for now).
  13. Transfer punch through the gear rack into the first column, and then drill the column and thread to mate the two
  14. Slide the second rack in place, and install the pinion. This should cause the racks to
I would probably drill the carriage first, then transfer-punch to the base.
 

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And here comes the stupid engineer brain, overcomplicating things yet once again.... for the pressure, combine the two (arbor design to raise and lower the carriage/head so it's adjustable for handgun or rifle), and add a lever to the head with a movable piston? One gives pressure when needed, and one allows a smoother transition?
 
The lever action presses are designed to provide maximum force at the end of the stroke, needed for re sizing; a lot of thought went into the design of commercially available presses, an arbor press does not fit that parameter. When I started handloading over 50 years ago, a cousin's husband suggested Herter's presses, which I purchased, they are heavy cast iron, and well made, but they do possess a few drawbacks: for one, they use a larger diameter die than what is currently available, so an adaptor is used.

What are some of the other drawbacks?

I am getting back into reloading, and have a Lyman All American 8 on backorder. Like my old Dillon 650 I used during my competition days, I'll make things to fix and/or improve on the original design of the press. This way I don't have to kill what few brain cells I have left working out the numbers for the mechanical leverage I'd need to make one from scratch. :)

What modifications would you make?
 
Look at how the commercial presses are configured, there are reasons they are all similar, It is tried and proven over time.

While the commercial units are cast iron I would think that you could make it out of steel and get the same results.

It does not take much deflection to give accuracy issues in the final product. A 2 column with the load cantilevered out will flex under load and not do things perfectly straight. I have been using the same RCBS Rock Chucker for over 30 years and loaded countless thousands of rounds over the years and it is still just as tight as the day it was new. There is a lot more needed than just the press, The Rock Chucker Starter kit gets everything you need to get started except the dies and reloading components. You would be hard pressed to make a press for much if any less than the cost of the RCBS. As you learn more about reloading you can then upgrade parts to suit your needs, wich are most likely different than mine or anyone elses.

The RCBS is a single stage press, If you plan to load mass quantities of handgun ammo then you would be better off looking at a progre$$ive pre$$. But you will then need one for handgun ammo and a different one for rifle ammo.

Almost all brands of dies will work in any brand of press, so do not let die availability steer you choice of press.
 
I think I got the point here (that I shouldn't be thinking this way). Maybe after I pick up a starter kit and get a little more experience under my belt, I'll come back and revisit this. Thanks!
 
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