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iGAGING. how reliable?

T Bredehoft

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I read the following in a comment about one of their products.

I experienced the the slide moving up to .006" before the readout begins to respond. Movement to .020" results in reading of .017, then movement to .050" results in a readout of .034". Returning back to the .000" mark does not always result in actual zero. While the error is often repeatable in one direction, the return back, results in different errors. This DRO is always in error.

Is this typical?
 

pontiac428

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Do you have ferrite chokes installed on the cables at the head unit? Some folks have reported EMI on those scales (read: VFD). I have not had any issues with the iGaging setup on my benchtop mill.
 

C-Bag

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Mine has been flawless. Did a test in X,Y,Z and was within .001 and all returned exactly to 0. I didn't even put covers on them.

The only thing that's not that much fun is the batteries. But the new ones last way longer. Would have liked to get a power supply.
 

darkzero

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Don't know if it's related to your issue but the Mitutoyo scale I'm using for my mill quill came with isolation pads. Instructions say to use them in the event of erratic readings if mounted to bare metal (ground) on the machine. My read head is not in contact with bare metal but the mount for the scale is. I have not needed to use the isolation pads though.
 

Pops

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I have them on two of my lathes and both of my milling machines for several years and they have been great. Every so often you need to take a little thinner of some kind and wipe them down.


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Pops

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I did have an issue with my X axis on my mill giving weird readings. Cleaned it and the readings have been great.


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bill70j

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I read the following in a comment about one of their products.

I experienced the the slide moving up to .006" before the readout begins to respond. Movement to .020" results in reading of .017, then movement to .050" results in a readout of .034". Returning back to the .000" mark does not always result in actual zero. While the error is often repeatable in one direction, the return back, results in different errors. This DRO is always in error.

Is this typical?
I have Igaging DRO on two lathes. Accuracy has been better than advertised. And reliability has been good.

However I had a problem similar to what you describe on one of the lathes after about 3 years of use. It turned out to be a loose connection in the reader head, which simply needed to be resoldered in place.
 

Norseman C.B.

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I also have I Gauging on my RF clone, been a year now and no issues other
than the batteries don't like the cold winter here, they get sluggish ................
 

Pops

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I bought the 110 adapter for mine. Hooked up all four of the units to one adapter. Works fine.


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Norseman C.B.

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Thanks Pops, I was wondering if that could be done or not.............Could you show how you did it ??
 

Pops

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Sorry for not getting back sooner.

If you skin the outer cover on the wires of both the read outs and the voltage adapter there is a red and black wire on each. Very simple: just solder all the red wires together and solder all the black wires together. A little shrink sleeving helps too.
I have four of the read outs hooked to one adapter on my milling machine and everything works as it should. I did wire in an off/on switch to the adapter so I can turn them off instead of pulling the plug every time.

I also have all my machine dro adapters wired to pilot lights that are near the door where the last light switch is that I turn off when done for the evening. That way I can easily tell if I left anything on. I also have my air compressor hooked to a pilot light too.


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Winegrower

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This sounds more mechanical than electronic, to me. I had something like this when I added a vertical quill readout to my mill, and discovered that the brackets I had built had a very slight slop in them that let them rock slightly when reversing direction. After fixing that, never been another problem. Well, batteries, of course. :)
 

Pops

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That’s why I like the 110 adapter. You can leave them on for days and not worry about batteries.


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Norseman C.B.

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OOPS, shoulda read better the Igauge adaptor is modded for all three Thanks.....................:idea:
 

homebrewed

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FYI, the "accuremote" family of igaging scales are not designed to accept an AC adapter. I have an older set on my mill and just recently bought a pair (with the stainless steel rule) for my lathe, and all of them are battery-only. The Absolute DROs do support the use of an external supply, so if that's important to you, make sure to get them instead of Accuremote. Edit: that is, unless you're OK using the approach @Pops did and doing some soldering.

I've read that igaging has discontinued the Accuremote line, but my online searching found plenty of folks selling them.
 

pontiac428

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Shouldn't matter, you can solder your AC power adapter leads to the battery terminals in the DRO head or machine a battery-shaped adapter. Anything with a battery can be converted to run on an AC adapter as long as the voltage and amperage requirements are met.

It may not be by design, but it's an easy project.
 

Pops

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The igaging units I bought are the ez-view dro plus models that are made to accept a 110v adapter. The output on the little plug in modules is 5v. They have been working fine for the last several years with no problems. I bought the adapter from the same place I bought the dro’s. Think it was a place called Taylor Tools.


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homebrewed

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When I tried the soldering approach on one of my mill-mounted DROs I ended up with one that was even worse w/regard to noise susceptibility. So for now it's batteries for me.

I have an idea on how to address this noise issue but haven't had an opportunity to see how it works out yet.
 

pontiac428

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When I tried the soldering approach on one of my mill-mounted DROs I ended up with one that was even worse w/regard to noise susceptibility. So for now it's batteries for me.

I have an idea on how to address this noise issue but haven't had an opportunity to see how it works out yet.
I bet a $0.25 ferrite choke on the AC leads mounted as close to the head unit as possible would do the trick.
 
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