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Michaeljp86

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Heres a youtube vid I made of my first tractor project. This tractor means a lot to me, its my first tractor and it belonged to a friend who died before I paid for it. He told his wife about me wanting it so I was able to buy it from her. Also when I painted it I had a accident and ended up with a lot of broken bones and tons of medical bills. I pretty much lost every penny I had but I already bought the paint so I worked on it with one arm and a broken back in 3 places. I never rebuilt a engine before and was told I couldn't do it, you have to have special equipment and training and it would never run again. Maybe thats why I have the biggest smile on my face every time I get on it.

[video=youtube_share;U39beIcpMG8]http://youtu.be/U39beIcpMG8[/video]
http://youtu.be/U39beIcpMG8
 

Tamper84

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Nice job!!! And I am glad that you didnt paint the belts as well!!! I have a soft spot for binders. Ive never rebuilt an engine before either, but I want to. So I can at least say I did it, and learn something.

Thanks,
Chris
 

PurpLev

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I really don't like it when people flat out say "you can't do it" ... obviously you CAN. maybe THEY can't ;)

nice job. always had a thing for tractors (yet never an actual use for them)
 

Turbinedoctor

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Very nice job. I would like some info on the painting. I have a tiller to paint and was wondering how much and what type of prep work you had to do. Sand everthing or just wash off grease and wipe down with thinner to a final clean before painting?

Turbo
 

Michaeljp86

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Very nice job. I would like some info on the painting. I have a tiller to paint and was wondering how much and what type of prep work you had to do. Sand everthing or just wash off grease and wipe down with thinner to a final clean before painting?

Turbo
It depends, as long and the paint inst flaking I sand it with a random orbit sander. If it is I take it down to bare metal. Then depending on the condition of the metal Ill put primer on and sand it. if it has little pits Ill put several layers of primer and and sand it smooth. I just use regular oil base farm equipment paint. I cant afford the expensive 2 stage paints. The JD dealer sold lacquer paint, its kinda pricy but good stuff. The 484 I used rustoleum and it still looks great and spends a lot of time outside in the summer sun.

Are you teh same TurbinDoc from the diesel truck forums?
 

Turbinedoctor

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I may have been on a diesel truck forum a couple of years ago but not lately.

I am planning on using spray cans for my painting cause I like the smoothness of spray but have never used a spraygun. I was mainly wondering about the hard to reach and the areas with a lot of contours.

I have access to a media cabinet and will most likely use it to rough the painted areas or just take it down to bare.

You reccommend sanding the primer before painting. I have done a little painting but none that was to be all that great of quailty. Hoping to do a better job and learn the proper steps.

Thanks for your input.
 

Michaeljp86

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I may have been on a diesel truck forum a couple of years ago but not lately.

I am planning on using spray cans for my painting cause I like the smoothness of spray but have never used a spraygun. I was mainly wondering about the hard to reach and the areas with a lot of contours.

I have access to a media cabinet and will most likely use it to rough the painted areas or just take it down to bare.

You reccommend sanding the primer before painting. I have done a little painting but none that was to be all that great of quailty. Hoping to do a better job and learn the proper steps.

Thanks for your input.
If you sand the primer use like a 800 grit so you dont sand through the primer. That would take a lot of paint cans, you could probably buy a cheaper sprayer and a couple cans of paint and be money ahead from use spray cans.
 

Turbinedoctor

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Care to give me a tutorial on how to use a spray gun. I think you need to thin the paint and adjust the gun spray pattern but how?
 

Michaeljp86

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Care to give me a tutorial on how to use a spray gun. I think you need to thin the paint and adjust the gun spray pattern but how?
My dad painted up some tractors so I mixed the paint like he told me. I found out real quick that the new paint is a lit thinner then it used to be. He could pain a whole tractor on a qt.

It depends on the brand of paint too. Get some naptha from the hardware store and mix it 3:1 and try it. Just get a cardboard box and spray it. If Im painting really rusted metal and im just painting it to keep it from rusting I dont thin the pain at all. I just turn the air way up and let it kinda splatter out. You get a nice thick coat so no need for multiple layers. The paint isnt smooth but you would never know on the pitted metal.

Doing sheet metal I normally do 3 coats. I did about 8 coast on the IH because I had a junky gun that dripped.
 

Turbinedoctor

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Thanks. I just watched a couple of youtube videos about the spray guns and am looking forward to trying one out. I have an elchepo that came with my compressor. Do I need and air dryer?
 

Michaeljp86

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Thanks. I just watched a couple of youtube videos about the spray guns and am looking forward to trying one out. I have an elchepo that came with my compressor. Do I need and air dryer?
You should use a air dryer, I haven't been lately because I have no idea where mine went. I didn't have any issues with the last tractor I did.
 

Michaeljp86

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What issues could I see with out a dryer?
Spraying a single stage paint about the biggest problem you would have is not getting a smooth finish and it wont be as glossy. Automotive paint is a different story. I still have trouble with the clear coat. A friend just bought $500 and swears thats the only way to go doing automotive paint. He was using a $19 gun from harbor freight to do cars.
 

ML_Woy

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I may have been on a diesel truck forum a couple of years ago but not lately.

I am planning on using spray cans for my painting cause I like the smoothness of spray but have never used a spraygun. I was mainly wondering about the hard to reach and the areas with a lot of contours.

I have access to a media cabinet and will most likely use it to rough the painted areas or just take it down to bare.

You reccommend sanding the primer before painting. I have done a little painting but none that was to be all that great of quailty. Hoping to do a better job and learn the proper steps.

Thanks for your input.
Go to Lows and purchase a LPHV paint gun and hook it up to your air compressor at about 40# pressure. It works great and is a lot cheaper than using spray cans. Easy to clean, you can use water based paints or oil base. I bought one about a year ago and what a difference in the quality of my paint jobs. There are a lot of video's on YouTube on how to use them, simple to adjust and easy to use.
 

Turbinedoctor

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I have a sprayer that came with my Campbell Housfeld compressor, I took it out of the box, looked at it and put it back cause I didn't know much about them. I have watched a couple of videos about using and adjusting but haven't had a job big enough for it yet.

My Troy-bilt project is getting spray cans which I can grab, spray and walk away.

Looking forward to a project where I can use the spray gun.
 

Michaeljp86

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I have a sprayer that came with my Campbell Housfeld compressor, I took it out of the box, looked at it and put it back cause I didn't know much about them. I have watched a couple of videos about using and adjusting but haven't had a job big enough for it yet.

My Troy-bilt project is getting spray cans which I can grab, spray and walk away.

Looking forward to a project where I can use the spray gun.
just fill it with water and grab some old cardboard boxes and practice.
 

Turbinedoctor

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Water! Never thought of that, may even add some food color or clothes dye.

Thanks for the tip.
 

Michaeljp86

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Spray think coats, the cardboard will absorb water so you wont get runs like you would painting sheet metal. Once you got the hang of slowly making the cardboard darker you'll have the right technique.
 

Bill C.

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Spray think coats, the cardboard will absorb water so you wont get runs like you would painting sheet metal. Once you got the hang of slowly making the cardboard darker you'll have the right technique.

I used to paint weldments in the first shop I worked in. Someone suggested keeping a paint brush handy. If you get a run, it can be quickly brushed out. Also keep the nozzle moving quickly. If you pause the paint will load up and tend to run. Good luck
 

Michaeljp86

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I like painting in cooler weather, it seems to stay liquid a little more and kinda self levels. It makes rusted metal look powder coated. But if its hot you can spray lots of thin coats.
 

Turbinedoctor

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I have finished my tiller paint job with spray cans and am finding that if I hit the paint it chips off but leaves the primer in tact. Primer said I could topcoat within one hour which I did and the paint said I could apply a second coat within one hour also which I did. So with in three hours I had the primer and two light coats of paint. I was thinking that if I did it this way then they would tend to adhere to each other and become one. Should I have sanded the primer before painting? Should I have sanded between coats. It had dried for 48 hours before trying to assemble.
 
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