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Index Model 645 Mill

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T. J.

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OK fellas, I'm looking for some more advise. I'm about to start on the head of the machine. I have already removed the large bracket from the right side and the 'nod' worm gear. The thing is really heavy and unwieldy on the bench, so I was thinking about cleaning the outside up, putting the 'nod' bracket back on, then mounting it back on the ram. I would then disassemble the quill/spindle, and quill feed gear box as necessary. Do ya'll think that is possible? I can't see anything so far to make me think it wouldn't work, but I'd rather not put the head on the machine, then have to take it back off!
 
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Your that far, I'd go ahead and tear down the rest of the head, clean, then go back together. The feed box is a little tedious but not hard. May need to replace some of the bearings in the feed box.
I would definitely tear down the spindle, clean out all of the crud, inspect the bearings. My last set of bearings cost $250. Maybe able to get a hold of an set on ebay lot cheaper. May need to do some repair to the bearing nut on bottom of the spindle. I had to do some modifying to mine. I run Lubriplate 105 grease in. But it gets oil mixed in with the grease to the point that most of the grease has oozed out. Suggest oil feed from the top of spindle. Run a shielded bearing on top so the oil can pass thru to the spindle lower bearings.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
 

T. J.

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I got to spend some time on it this evening and I got most of the crud off of the head. Here's some before and after pics. :big grin:
IMG_0439.JPG IMG_0440.JPG IMG_0441.JPG IMG_0442.JPG IMG_0443.JPG IMG_0445.JPG IMG_0446.JPG IMG_0447.JPG
 

FOMOGO

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Great job on the restoration. Your going to know that machine inside out by the time your done. Cheers, Mike
 

T. J.

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Well, I opened up the spindle feed gear box. I was happy to find that all the grease was still soft and clean. All of the gears are in great condition and everything turns freely. I think I can skip disassembling it and just repack it with grease.
IMG_0451.JPG
 

ezduzit

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The color of that grease makes it appear to have been contaminated with water, no?
 

Sandia

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Looks like your doing a jam up job T.J. My hats off to you guy. One thing I would like to mention in the area of safety. I would be real careful using the light chain that I see in your pictures. Unless my eyes deceive me, that looks like a light weight decorative type chain. A good sling or choker would be a lot safer and easier to use.

Good luck to you,
 

T. J.

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My thought was that the yellowish green color in the top section of the gearbox was mostly oil. In the lubrication manual for this machine, it states that in early machines, the upper gearbox was filled with Mobil Vactra HH oil. In later machines, it was packed with Mobilplex EP No 0 grease. The big glob of grease on the shifter bar (upper right corner) seems to have come from the bearing housing on the upper ends of those shafts, which has a grease zerk.
 
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My suggestion is to fill it with General Lubriplate 105 grease. Not quite as thin as the old Mobil stuff was, but nice if you ask me. You can still get Mobil Vactra HH gear oil. May have to buy a 5 gallon bucket of it! In fact, you may be able to get a quart of it from your local auto supply or Amazon. It doesn't need any heavy grease. Not like it will be running 24 hours a day 7 seven days a week year after year. Ken
 

JAS

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Nice job the old oil filled ones had a sight glass on the side panel.yours looks like it had a sight glass above the slip clutch handle hard to tell from the picture. minje was starting to get hardened grease when i pulled it apart but turned out ok.Good luck you seem to be doing well I know what you are going thru.
 

markba633csi

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You could put some of that greenish oil on a hot surface- if you see bubbles there's water in it
MS
 

T. J.

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The color of that grease makes it appear to have been contaminated with water, no?
Turns out you were right...

You could put some of that greenish oil on a hot surface- if you see bubbles there's water in it
MS
Thanks for the recommendation. I tried it and sure enough, it boiled like crazy. So I guess the gear box will require a more thorough cleaning than I thought. :apologize:
 

T. J.

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I worked a little yesterday on trying to get the quill and spindle out. I'm working under the assumption that the quill feed shaft has to come out before the quill can be removed. Is that correct?

On another note, the quill counterbalance spring is corroded and broken.
image.jpeg
Anybody ever tried to make one of these?
 
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Is it actually broke? It looks more crudded up than anything. The end of the spring should be squared off, looks like it is broken off on a taper. If it is, square up the end and continue to use it. I would suggest not unwinding it! Unless it's actually broke somewhere in the length of the spring, continue to use it. To me, it appears fine other than cleaning it up as geed as you can. The end of the spring just slips into a slit in the piece that is on the rack pinion shaft.

May also check with Wells Index and see if a new spring assembly is available if you want to go that route.

Ken
 

T. J.

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I think it's broken about 2 or 3 coils in from the center. I haven't verified that yet though.
 

FOMOGO

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Those are welded links, and a decent dia., I think it's plenty strong for what your hanging. I have become a great fan of slings and other woven straps. They are strong, easy to use, and they don't tend to tear things up like a chain can. Mike
 

T. J.

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It's been a busy summer and my progress has been slow on the mill, but I'm back on it now. My current task is disassembling the quill. I have gotten the lock nut and the bearing preload nut off of the bottom end (after a lot of effort). Now what? The drawing shows something called a bearing removal ring that could be accessed via the plugged hole on the side of the quill. It's not apparent to me how this would be used though. It looks to me like the spindle could be pressed out from either end, but I don't want to mash on it until I know for sure.
 

JAS

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definitely water in that grease mine looked like that when I tore it apart.You can probably get a new spring from Wells /Index they still have certain parts but at what cost .
 

T. J.

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I finally got the spindle out! Here is the apparatus I used. It's a piece of 1/2" all-thread run through the spindle with some wooden blocks bearing on the quill.
image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg

This was enough to get it broken free where I could tap it the rest of the way out. I still need to get the top bearing out. The two bottom bearings are in pretty good shape, but I will go ahead and replace them unless they are outrageously expensive.
 
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After you settle down from pricing the bearing set, I have a extra set here I'll Let go for $125 if you are interested in them.
 

T. J.

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After you settle down from pricing the bearing set, I have a extra set here I'll Let go for $125 if you are interested in them.
Thanks Ken, PM on the way. :D
 

Sandia

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Its gonna be real nice wen you get thru with it, worth the effort. You know, its hard to believe someone would let a peace of equipment like that get that filthy. Doesn't cost much to clean it every once in a while.
 

T. J.

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IMG_0234.JPGIt's getting closer! :cool 2:

The head is mostly back together. I ordered a couple of R-8 spindle keys from W-I a couple of weeks ago, but my order got lost. Hopefully it'll be here this week. Then I can reassemble the quill with the bearings that I got from Ken. I'll pick up some electrical cord and new belts tomorrow. Chips coming soon!

I was able to heat and bend a new hook in the counterbalance spring. A new one is $108, so I thought I'd try fixing the old one first. Once I get the quill in, we'll see if it holds up. There was approximately 8 inches broken off.
IMG_0231.JPG
IMG_0232.JPG
 

brino

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I was able to heat and bend a new hook in the counterbalance spring. A new one is $108
Wow........The original pictures of that old one made it look like it was garbage....so rusty and broken.
Nice save!

-brino
 
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