Index Model 645 Mill

.....snip........ I'll look into the Bijur systems. Do you have any suggested suppliers?

I do have a question regarding building up the shaft. Since it is steel, would it be better to weld it (MIG) or braze it?

Thanks!

Either welding process should work. Brass may wear down quicker and put you back to square one.

Just thought of something, go buy a piece of 11/16" hex stock locally or from Speedy Metals, and just remake the shaft. Much easier and cheaper!

As for the Bijur lubricating stuff, there's lots of stuff on eBay for sale. In fact, there's a place out on the west coast that sell a Asian brand that is used on Acer mills. He advertises on eBay as Supra Machine Tool, I think. Easy to find his stuff. He may have a kit made up of all of the stuff needed to convert a knee mill over to automatic lubrication. Be prepared to spend upward around $300 for the necessary stuff to convert you mill.

When you get to that point, let me know and I'll try to put together a lube diagram of all of the points of lubrication needed with a basic list of items for a shopping list to look for.

Ken
 
Depending on how bad it is worn, you could use a stick welder with a carbon rod and some bronze wire?
Martin W
 
I think I will just make a new one from hex stock as Ken suggested. That project will have to wait until I get the mill put back together because it requires a woodruff key slot to be milled.

I got the ram off last night, but I forgot to take pictures :confused 3:. I'll post some later today.
 
As I mentioned earlier, I got the ram off yesterday. I had been dribbling Kroil along the dovetail for about a week hoping to get it loosened up. I removed the bolts on each end that anchor the chain, and the ram moved freely. I was then able to remove the broken ram adjustment shaft and sprocket. I don't think I caused all of this damage, but I sure finished it off! Another part to make...
image.jpg

The top of the turret after a little cleaning:
image.jpg
The rectangular hole close to the center is where the sprocket sits and the chain rides in the groove. I didn't get a photo of it, but the chain is attached to the bottom of the ram. Along with the sprocket it acts like a rack and pinion for extending the ram. The square hole toward the bottom of the pic is for removing the T-bolts that hold the turret to the column.

The underside of the turret:
image.jpg

The top of the column:image.jpg
 
Removal saddle was pretty straightforward. The hand wheel and dial were removed, then the bearing bracket which bolts to the front of the knee:
image.jpg

Then the screw is screwed out. This key was missing. I haven't had a chance to investigate what it is supposed to engage
image.jpg

The nuts for both the table and saddle lead screws are cast as one piece. It can now be removed:
image.jpg

I was then able to slide the saddle off. The knee was raised as far as it would go, then hoisted off.
image.jpg
I'll have to find a way to grab it closer to its center of gravity when I put it back on. :eek:

So now the mill is broken down into its major assemblies. I will start cleaning them and move them to my shop for reassembly. I was hoping to get more done today, but I ran out of propane for the heater in the barn. It's supposed to be warmer tomorrow, so I plan on attacking the column with some degreaser and a pressure washer.
 
That woodruff keyway in the cross feed shaft you were referring to is for use with power feed if your mill was equipped with it. You're bringing back old memories when I had mine taken apart in pieces. Actually my dad had taken it apart when bought the mill left it that way and passed away before he ever got a chance to put it back together. I got stuck with putting the mill back together later.
 
That woodruff keyway in the cross feed shaft you were referring to is for use with power feed if your mill was equipped with it. You're bringing back old memories when I had mine taken apart in pieces. Actually my dad had taken it apart when bought the mill left it that way and passed away before he ever got a chance to put it back together. I got stuck with putting the mill back together later.

Ok. Mine doesn't have a y axis power feed, so that's why there's no key. I'm scared that I'll forget how some piece of this thing goes back together before I get done. I can't imagine starting with a pile of parts and figuring it out from there!
 
I got the column cleaned up. This is a photo of the left way. This is the worst damage that I've found on any of the ways so far. This is limited to about a 3 inch area.
image.jpg
 
That woodruff keyway in the cross feed shaft you were referring to is for use with power feed if your mill was equipped with it. You're bringing back old memories when I had mine taken apart in pieces. Actually my dad had taken it apart when bought the mill left it that way and passed away before he ever got a chance to put it back together. I got stuck with putting the mill back together later.
Ken you know you wouldn't have let that mill go . After your dad did all the tear down , it may have been ment for you to do it. I have things from my pop I wouldn't take a million bucks for. Just holding them I relive every thing.
 
Clean up the parts then Ck your damages. I'd polish them up stone the ways to take nice down to keep them from catching chips and hold them to make more damage. Get or make felts and keepers , cheap floor mats help keep chips out of the ways. Even if you can't afford the bijor oiler you can make your own with a decent pump oil gun hooked up to a block of feed lines. I've got old drip oilers on one of my mills , and 1/8" copper lines soldered in place to a block with six lines to it to spread it thru the machine. Lots of options while it's tore down , great machines good luck with your rebuild. You can bag and label parts so you know where they go , pics help too.
 
Back
Top