Inexpensive/easily found tool steel.

I've been getting my tool steel from McMaster lately, in small quantities their pricing is the best I've found.

I buy flat bars in O1, I think the smallest length they sell is 16" or so. I get my steel in 36" lengths, so not too heavy. A 1x2x36" bar is fairly easy to handle. They have oversized or precision ground in various popular types of steel. The variety of sizes is vast, I usually can find steel close in size for my projects. My last O1 precision bar was perfectly sized and 3/8" thick turned out to be 3/8" thick, didn't need to use my surface grinder.

The shipping is fast and so far reasonable for the weight. Small orders shipped cheap to me and it's next day delivery in my location. Like four 36" long 5/8" round bars ship for $8, I couldn't drive to my nearest steel seller for that in fuel cost.
 
I recently ordered steel bars from Midwest Steel and Aluminum. Better prices than McMaster on some heavier items. Although McMaster is still my source for O1 rods. They sell 1045, 12L14, A36, 1018, 4140 etc. They don't have O1 from what I saw, but the prices are are competive on most other steels. Shipping calculated before you order too. https://www.midweststeelsupply.com/store/index.php?logout=1
 
1" or more of tool steel starts to get very expensive. I've found some pretty good deals on Ebay for Starrett O1 ground flat tool steel, but finding the size that you need can be difficult on Ebay. Making 1 2 3 blocks from tool steel is an expensive project, and having a surface grinder is a definite advantage, so I just bought them. Moore Tool or Suburban Tool make the best 1 2 3 blocks, IMHO, but making your own is a satisfying project.
 
For inch + material, I like truck or car axles. They are dirt cheap at the scrap yard and yield a lot of metal for a couple bucks.

Second that. I have a friend who has an auto repair shop. He gives me all the old axles and tie-rods I can use. I have no idea what type of steel they are (does anyone know?) but they machine easily and beautifully.
 
Second that. I have a friend who has an auto repair shop. He gives me all the old axles and tie-rods I can use. I have no idea what type of steel they are (does anyone know?) but they machine easily and beautifully.

Usually axles are 4140 or something close to that, induction hardened. I don't know about tie rods but probably similar. For softer
easier working metal, I will anneal axles in a wood fire and cool slowly. Then I machine and reharden by quenching in oil and reheating
to the desired hardness. At times I will machine an axle hard using a carbide insert.
 
I've used carbide and most of the time found them easy to machine. Some times seems like the splined ends are hardened. I have produced some amazing finishes on this old "junk".
 
You know decent 123 blocks can be purchased from import distributors for less money then you will pay for the raw materials.

Just sayin'
Yes, I own 2 sets of them, and they are very square, parallel, and within a tenth of stated size. But, I’d like to make some of my own.
 
Yes, I own 2 sets of them, and they are very square, parallel, and within a tenth of stated size. But, I’d like to make some of my own.

In many (possibly most) of the projects I post here, the metal is heat treated. I always give step-by-step write ups and describe the heat-treat process and machining processes afterward. Look at some of my projects if you so desire. The thread on bull nose live center is a good example. It's not really advanced stuff but, should give some insight on what to do.

Anyhow, when the hardness of metal gets near 50 RC and above normal/manual machining processes become problematic. Even mid to high 40's RC can be a struggle depending on the desired features. Cutting tools dull and break quickly and most homeshop machines do not have the rigidity or motor horsepower it takes to do "hard machining" effectively. Traditionally, such work is done with grinding equipment. I had a surface grinder but, for a variety of reasons, removed it from the shop. Now I do really small grinding operations on an old cutter/grinder and am OK with holding tolerances inside of a thou.

Not trying to discourage you but, just trying to convey that ultra-precision work takes specialized equipment.
 
Back
Top