Introduction - New Atlas Lathe Owner

Looks like a guy on ebay is making some replacements out of aluminum... I may try and steel his design.

They have a used one on there for 99$ too. Man that feels expensive.

Edit: How precise do the holes in this piece need to be? Could I just drill them (without using a reamer)? I should be able to fabricate this on my mill.


Edit #2: This guy sells one with an aluminum case and steel gears - http://www.mymachineshop.net/product_p/10021.htm
 

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Hee hee, I'll refrain from saying that I told you so. The mounting hole diameter and/or slot width are not critical. As cast or drilled or milled is good enough. The diameter of the shaft holes on the other hand should be accurate.

Joel does good work, too.
 
C.) Any advice on getting this guy off without damaging anything? It's tight and I'm nervous.


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I figured I'd share some of my progress on this restoration:


This is how torn down I currently have it:

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I've been taking apart one component at a time... and keeping the hardware separate in boxes so I don't get anything mixed up:

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On the cast iron pieces I've been laboriously getting them down to the bare cast iron... taping them up, stuffing all the holes, hitting them with primer, then royal blue Rust-oleum enamel.

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Once I have the pieces painted for a component, I wire wheel and clean all the hard ware (every single piece is getting cleaned, de-greased, made non-filthy, etc...), lightly coat with 20WT oil, then reassemble. Once re-assembled I put it off to the side to wait till completion of the project!

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Side note... I know it's not original, but I plan on coming back and hitting the peaks of all the raised letters and numbers on this machine with black... cause I think it will look slick :)
 
On the piece you can't get off. I looked at the parts list for a 101.07403 lathe which appears to be similar to your lathe. This is a stud that screws into the headstock housing. There might be a nut on the inside but I don't think so. No nut showed on the parts diagram that I looked at. I would squirt PB Blaster between the housing and the arm and also on the inside of the housing on the end of the stud. It could be rusted in place. I would just leave it alone rather that risk breaking the stud or worse breaking the housing.
 
It actually came off easier than I thought with the "right tool".... little penetrating oil and a socket.

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There are some castings that are not already painted blue... And I was wondering If I should leave them alone, paint them gray, or just paint blue. A good example of what I'm talking about are the castings holding on the back gears.... I guess it won't hurt to paint them. Just some thoughts. lol
 
Glad that you managed to get it broken loose. Leaving it in place would have complicated the paint job.

What color are the Back Gear Brackets? Dark Machinery Gray? Those two brackets remained the same on the Atlas 10" and the Sears 12" models AFAIK from 1936 until 1957. Supply must have run out of the blue ones on the day that you machine was assembled. I would go ahead and mask and paint them blue.
 
wa5cab said:
Glad that you managed to get it broken loose. Leaving it in place would have complicated the paint job.

What color are the Back Gear Brackets? Dark Machinery Gray? Those two brackets remained the same on the Atlas 10" and the Sears 12" models AFAIK from 1936 until 1957. Supply must have run out of the blue ones on the day that you machine was assembled. I would go ahead and mask and paint them blue.
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I'm still trying to figure out how to take the back gears apart... hahaha

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vtcnc said:
If I pulled this from the correct manual, it appears that they are secured on the shaft with a keyed bushing and collar?

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Thanks man. Is that 10-254 handle a press fit?


Also what is a "eccentric"? (I'm not sure how to get the 10-252 off... it's in the way of me sliding off the 10-243 gear.



Interestingly enough the person who installed this on my machine must have lost or thrown away the 10-259 pins.



Lastly are the oil ports on the castings around the shaft (L4-245L and 10-245R) supposed to have set screws in the oilers on top? They are threaded, but mine are just open threaded holes... I'm guessing there are oil cups that fit in there?
 
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