Introduction to Indexable Tooling for the Metal Lathe

$59 for a paper back???!!!!!!! holyrabafrabitz!!!!!! dont about anyone here but you could prolly learn more by actually playing with tool bits like " on the job training.
Several years ago I co-authored a self-published workbook on a training methodology utilized during WWII (think: what was behind the war production effort) and how that program is still in use today with a couple of well known companies. Toyota is the prominent one, but the program was exported to Japan by a couple of the wartime officers and no less by General MacArthur's occupation office in Japan to revitalize Japanese industry.

You will likely learn more by doing, but acquiring knowledge is the best first step. When you learn by doing without any prior knowledge, you are likely going to make some expensive mistakes, likely going to develop some bad habits that you are completely unaware of and your success will largely be based on average skill and quite a bit of luck (read: industry knowledge that you are unaware of - yet works in your favor) that is built into the products by the industry.
I have not seen David's book yet but I have some idea of the work it takes to assemble a fund of knowledge that book represents and his price is more than fair. Personally, I suspect he did it as a service to the hobby more than anything else. It is also my opinion that you can learn this stuff on your own ... maybe ... but it will take you a lot longer to do it. If I was a new guy starting out in this hobby, I would buy David's book and be way, way ahead of the game.
Self-publishing is not a get rich quick scheme. I spent a week at the National Archives in Maryland, another week at the Case Western Reserve Library in Cleveland and countless hours researching a topic that became a labor of love. I'm better for it, but I lost money.
 
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You will likely learn more by doing, but acquiring knowledge is the best first step. When you learn by doing without any prior knowledge, you are likely going to make some expensive mistakes, likely going to develop some bad habits that you are completely unaware of and your success will largely be based on average skill and quite a bit of luck (read: industry knowledge that you are unaware of) that is built into the products by the industry.

Very well said, Bryan. Having been through this exact process with boring bars, I know how obscenely expensive it can get while researching how carbide tooling works. I also know that it isn't that easy to figure out how to use those tools and bring the cutting process under control - not by luck - I mean control. If a book can enable you to leapfrog the very slow, painful and expensive process of learning to use carbide tooling, it will make you a better machinist while saving you money.

I look forward to reading this book soon.
 
Brad Pitt playing David Best isn't as far off as Tom cruise playing Jack Reacher. David is the Lee Child of the metal set. Dave
Oh well done!
I got into Lee Child and Jack Reacher about ten years ago. Read them all.
Now I’m back to dry history.
 
I have found the book to be very helpful, it's over 100 pages with plenty of photos. The explanations provided are useful when deciding what you want verses what you need when starting unless you have already made up your mind to get everything on the front end. I think David sharing what did and what did not work has and will save much more that the cost. I do prefer to purchase better quality tooling if I can instead of buying something to get by and upgrading later. While learning if you have good tooling I think it's easier "read the chips" in order to have things work correctly or at least understand why you are getting the results you are. JMHO.

Thanks again David for all the work put into this.

Steve
 
I just watched the videos on 6’s and C’s.
Then I walked out to my chip pan. All the aluminum is in a birds nest design.
Some of the steel is in long beautiful braids. Some are looking good. Must have got lucky.
The NY CNC video is good except I couldn’t get past that spinning four jaw chuck and long sleeves.
I kind of lost focus on chip development, and went for finish.
Time to learn more about carbide tooling and speeds and feeds.
I’ve also noticed my parts are getting too hot.
I fly by the seat of my pants.
So much to learn,
Say, maybe I’ll buy David’s book.
 
I can use all the help that I can get... let me order the book...
 
I received the book yeaterday.

I am not among the target readership, being that I have a small lathe -- a Sherline. The recommended tools in the book are generally too large for my lathe, but reading the book helped me to better understand the tool holders and inserts that Sherline sells -- why they sell what they sell on how to use them.

There appears to be a good correspondence between the book's recommendation and the smaller (3/8-inch shank) toolholders that Sherline sells.

Reading about neutral hand toolholders raised a question in my mind: Compared to the right hand and left hand toolholders, do the neutral hand toolholders produce a better finish -- being that they have a positive side cutting edge angle?

Karl A
 
I received the book yeaterday.

I am not among the target readership, being that I have a small lathe -- a Sherline. The recommended tools in the book are generally too large for my lathe, but reading the book helped me to better understand the tool holders and inserts that Sherline sells -- why they sell what they sell on how to use them.

There appears to be a good correspondence between the book's recommendation and the smaller (3/8-inch shank) toolholders that Sherline sells.

Reading about neutral hand toolholders raised a question in my mind: Compared to the right hand and left hand toolholders, do the neutral hand toolholders produce a better finish -- being that they have a positive side cutting edge angle?

Karl A
You are correct that the specific tool recommendations in the book are for medium sized (10-14") lathes. There are indeed smaller 3/8" and maybe even some 1/4" shank tools that are equivalent to those recommended in the book.

I just looked at the Sherline indexable tool offerings, and the specs are all for positive inserts CPMT, DPMT, etc. which have an 11° relief angle and a 0.250" I.C. and appear to be industry standard. Their turning/facing toolholders are not sufficiently specified to know precisely if they are neutral or positive rake, and the lack of industry standard nomenclature suggests to me that the Sherline toolholders are proprietary.

For the Rhombus (80°) CPMT21.5 type inserts Sherline sells, the industry standard turning/facing toolholders would be designated SCLP such as the 3/8" square shank Kennametal 1095594 (right hand) and 1095686 (left hand), both of which mount the insert at a positive 5° rake angle. So it's likely the Sherline toolholders mount the CPMT inserts at a positive rake also. Below is the drawing for the Kennametal equivalent toolholder - you can clearly see the positive rake mounting. The positive rake puts less demand on the required HP of the machine and should be freer cutting than a neutral rake holder which is probably why Sherline chose this geometry and positive rake insert type.

screenshot_5348.jpg
That said, quality of finish will have a lot to do with the specific insert, nose radius, etc. The Sherline inserts are CPMT21.51 with a 0.016" nose radius which is why they spec a minimum depth of cut of 0.004". Sherline says this about their inserts:
"Carbide cutters give good finishes on hard-to-machine materials such as cold-rolled steel. They will also work on aluminum, brass, or leaded steels, and will last practically forever. However, the best finishes on those materials are still achieved with a good, sharp high-speed steel tool."​
For the sharpest insert cutting edge you'd want a CPGT insert rather than a CPMT which Sherline doesn't offer, hence their admonition about using HSS on softer materials. The difference between the two types is covered on page 23 in the book and relates to the tolerance. The "G" tolerance is the most constrained and the inserts are typically ground to meet that tolerance spec, and thus will have a sharp (rather than blunt) cutting edge. The Iscar 5510088 would be an excellent CPGT21.50 (0.004" nose radius) insert for semi- and fine-finishing turning with a wide variety of materials including aluminum. And because of the smaller nose radius, minimum depth of cut would also be less - perhaps as low as 0.0015".

Hope this helps.

David Best
 
I've not read David's book yet, but intend to order a copy. If the book does nothing more than save the reader from ordering just one wrong 10-pack of inserts, it's basically paid for itself. Plus, I love reading technical type stuff, and don't believe one can ever learn too much.
 
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