Is cheaper hydraulic oil OK?

I have yet to see a machine manufacture at this price level specify an oil of a particular manufacturer as the only one you can use, so lets get realistic about this as it applies to this level of machinery. These machines are shipped all over the world, I highly doubt that they all have access to Mobil DTE XYZ, or whatever brand. They specify the type and the ISO, they often will give a particular brand as an example of that era. Many of the "recommended oils" no longer exist. Unless you read something in the warranty that gives a specific statement that the warranty is VOID if you use anything else and you need to show proof, etc. then it isn't enforceable, and even then it may depend on the state you live in. You might have very specific specifications if you have a Rolls Royce turbine engine, but a lathe or mill, I don't think so.

It is well understood that there are equivalent oils between brands, and they will have comparable performance. We are talking basic oil here, and nothing fancy, people are lead to believe there is a huge difference between the oils, between most name brand this is not the case. The biggest cause of failure from lack of lubrication is not the oil brand but operator negligence from not changing the oil, wrong quantity, or using something totally out of specifications. You will see lots of people saying motor oil is fine for their lathe, etc. but the biggest issue with splash lubrication is the wrong viscosity at the designed operating temperature and speed/type of the gears. With splash lubrication, too thin an oil does not have the film thickness, too high a viscosity and the oil will not flow through the channels to the bearings and you get heat generation due to the higher viscosity.

Below is an older oil equivalence chart, if you speak to oil distributors which I have on a number of occasions they will give you comparable products between the different brands. They are equivalent. The QMT manuals specifically say's "ISO XX, such as Mobil ...", Grizzly lists their own oils or equivalent, I cannot recall any lathe or mill manual that indicates only a particular brand can be used.

So go with the indication/oil type and the ISO grade, the brand is your choice. Would I runout and get K-Mart hydraulic oil in the automotive department, probably not. I have followed these discussions on oils for years, have had discussions with oil techs from companies for specific indications, at this level it is not rocket science. Buy a decent brand oil, change the oil regularly. If you are that unsure about if XYZ oil is OK ask the manufacturer. In a commercial setting where machines operate 24/7 and trying to minimize down time, then slight difference between oils might be a factor based on factual evidence that a difference exsits.

Oil Cross Reference Chart.jpg


Oil Viscosity Charts.jpg
 
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Fortunately manufacturers cannot require you to use a specific product for maintenance, and ISO 68 is a specification that many products meet. The International Standards Organization (ISO)
https://www.iso.org/popular-standards.html
publishes technical standards for everything from information security to medical devices and quality management like ISO 9000. If the manufacturer of your lathe specifies ISO 68 hydraulic oil ANY oil that meets that specification WILL satisfy the lubrication requirements providing the right amount is used and it's changed at the specified intervals.

As has been pointed out already the gearbox in question is pretty low tech and probably doesn't need everything that this particular oil can provide. I used to build racing kart engines and what oil to use was always a hot topic. The reality was as long as you used an oil designed for the purpose, and used enough of it, and changed it regularly there wasn't any signifigant difference between brands.

Of course, for a definitive answer just ask Precision Matthews.

But, if they spec ISO 68 you should be able to use whatever you can get from your local supply house that meets the spec.

John
 
Tractor supply ISO 68 or 46. I use it and i studied it for days and there is no difference it has anti corrosive additives in it. I worked for Unocal as a process operator and we bought lube oils and gas from all the refineries. And sold it as are own and they did the same.
 
Hope it is OK that I downloaded those images for future reference. :encourage:
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We really need a sticky on this and Rust Prevention also...
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Nice thing around our area is that 5-gal pails show up in the estate sales all the time - dirt cheap.
I've got ISO32, 46, & 68. There will probably still be enough left to end up in my estate sale, though hopefully not.

When I first got my 1440 up and running I stopped by a local Oil distributor to inquire about Tellus or Vactra, and the guy there asked what my application was. He then recommended that I save some $$$ and just get some ISO32 & 68 at Tractor Supply.
I already had some for a skid steer I was using so. . .

Let's face it, do a search in a browser for 'way oil' and then go over the results. The range of prices is breath-taking.
'Kits' on eBay for Way Lube and Spindle Oil @ $6-12 / PINT! That's ~$80/gal.
Grizzly even shows up with "South Bend SB1365 - Way Oil for Lathes" @$16 for 12oz. Spec is AMGA#2 (ISO 68 Equivalent)
I rather use the monies for the Tool Fund.

Here's how I figured it once I determined I didn't need to spend $30/gal
I found this somewhere on here or perhaps elsewhere.

ISO 32 –
Head Stock Gears
Ball Oilers

ISO 68 –
Bed Ways
Lead Screw
Feed Rods


I have yet to see a machine manufacture at this price level specify an oil of a particular manufacturer as the only one you can use, so lets get realistic about this as it applies to this level of machinery. These machines are shipped all over the world, I highly doubt that they all have access to Mobil DTE XYZ, or whatever brand. They specify the type and the ISO, they often will give a particular brand as an example of that era. Many of the "recommended oils" no longer exist. Unless you read something in the warranty that gives a specific statement that the warranty is VOID if you use anything else and you need to show proof, etc. then it isn't enforceable, and even then it may depend on the state you live in. You might have very specific specifications if you have a Rolls Royce turbine engine, but a lathe or mill, I don't think so.

It is well understood that there are equivalent oils between brands, and they will have comparable performance. We are talking basic oil here, and nothing fancy, people are lead to believe there is a huge difference between the oils, between most name brand this is not the case. The biggest cause of failure from lack of lubrication is not the oil brand but operator negligence from not changing the oil, wrong quantity, or using something totally out of specifications. You will see lots of people saying motor oil is fine for their lathe, etc. but the biggest issue with splash lubrication is the wrong viscosity at the designed operating temperature and speed/type of the gears. With splash lubrication, too thin an oil does not have the film thickness, too high a viscosity and the oil will not flow through the channels to the bearings and you get heat generation due to the higher viscosity.

Below is an older oil equivalence chart, if you speak to oil distributors which I have on a number of occasions they will give you comparable products between the different brands. They are equivalent. The QMT manuals specifically say's "ISO XX, such as Mobil ...", Grizzly lists their own oils or equivalent, I cannot recall any lathe or mill manual that indicates only a particular brand can be used.

So go with the indication/oil type and the ISO grade, the brand is your choice. Would I runout and get K-Mart hydraulic oil in the automotive department, probably not. I have followed these discussions on oils for years, have had discussions with oil techs from companies for specific indications, at this level it is not rocket science. Buy a decent brand oil, change the oil regularly. If you are that unsure about if XYZ oil is OK ask the manufacturer. In a commercial setting where machines operate 24/7 and trying to minimize down time, then slight difference between oils might be a factor based on factual evidence that a difference exsits.
 
My lathe has a sticker on the gearbox informing of proper oil to use.
image.jpeg
 
Jet calls out for Mobil DTE Oil Heavy Medium throughout their manual for a GH-1340W/1440W.
Which again is basically ISO68.

Here's some out of other various manuals.

Grizzly:
1580850523609.png
Enco:
1580850605247.png
YCL-1340:
1580850744439.png
TurnPro 1440:
1580850803308.png
 
I usually install a strong magnet in my oil drain plugs to retain the metal particles, you will be amazed at the amount of metal particles that you will find attached to them
Just wondering where those metal particles are coming from. After the initial break in period oil change, I would not expect a gear box to be producing metal particles if lubed properly.
 
May have missed it but PM doesn't include oil with the machine?
Will you use chainsaw bar oil on the sliding ways?
 
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Just wondering where those metal particles are coming from. After the initial break in period oil change, I would not expect a gear box to be producing metal particles if lubed properly.
Wear, otherwise mechanical things would last forever. Definitely less after break-in but there will still be wear.
A magnet is a good idea because it takes metal particles out of suspension and reduces additional wear.
John
 
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