Is knurling acceptable on a bearing journal.

GoceKU

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I've been working on a Little russian 4x4 last few months, i've come to the point the where i'm checking the front suspension and come across this:
IMG_20190418_163104.jpg

The wheel hub had a spun bearing long time ago, and there is some wear on the hub, it uses taper roller bearings, and the low spot is 0,18 mm, is it acceptable to just use fine knurling or should i weld it and turn it down, any advice is much appreciated.

P.S. the part in the middle where my micrometer is is not a bearing journal, the part in question is the farthest from the wheel flange.
 
I have done that before with good success.
 
It could be knurled, or turned down until round and concentric and then a sleeve brazed or Loctited on, or built up with weld or brazed and then machined to size and concentricity. There might be other ideas as well. .018 mm (~.008") is a lot to gain by knurling, fine knurling probably won't get there...
 
Metal spraying is a process where molten metal is sprayed onto the heated shaft in an Oxy acetylene flame, and will easily build up this shaft, if you can find an engineering shop that has the equipment. Mig or Tig would also work, but because they use deeper penetrating heat, may weaken or soften the shaft. Is the shaft soft enough to try a coarse knurl? if so, you could try that first, and use a combination of knurl and Loctite bearing fit, and if this fails, try to find a metal spraying shop. Hope this helps.
Phil, UK.
 
Another good fix is the green bearing retaining compound sold by Loctight. If REALLY bad do this in combo with knurling.

Once, for a field repair, I peened the heck out of the spindle with a center punch, then put the green stuff on. This was on the side of the freeway with semis brushing my arse.
 
I've done the punch prick, and knurling methods several times, on trucks with great success. You also want the bore that the hub fits into, with about a slight hammer, fit, so the outside of the bearings do not spin.
 
I'm voting for a sleeve repair. Of course, the powder torch is a great option, and not expensive to do. All you need is a torch attachment to accept a powder bottle, and the appropriate powder for what you're doing. I prefer Stoody for powder torch filler. Very easy to apply. Preheat, fog coat, and lay it on- just like spray painting, only hot and in flame.
 
Knurling a bearing journal is a bad idea. The problem being not controlling the diameter precisely. I did tons of metalizing and it would be the way to go if you had that option at your disposal. The company I worked for also used a polymer that had metal particles, but only if there was no other option.
 
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