Very similar, I cut mine on the plasma table and made the tool holder out of aluminumAnother version of the grinding fixture.
The jaw in the picture actually shows the opposite of bell mouth. Normal wear on chuck jaws makes them have a bigger diameter at the upper tips of the jaws. Yours has a smaller diameter there. Actually, with the wear that likely exists on the rest of the chuck and jaws, those will probably be close to matching the center line of the lathe when tightened onto workpieces.In my case the jaws were so worn that even if they were ground on a surface grinder they would still bell mouth, the jaws and the chuck body have slop in them so a square ground jaw could tip out at the bottom when it was tightened. The first thing I tried was truing them up on a disk grinder, I got them really close to square on the combination square I was using but they still wouldn't hold the work piece, still rocked after tightening. After grinding them in place they hold the work piece much better. I just took a jaw out and took a photo of the angle that the jaw ground to when tightened down.
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Now granted the proper thing to do would have been to replace the chuck but the rest of the machine shows the same kind of wear so is it worth it to spend a bunch of money on a 108 year old heavily worn machine? not to me, I made it work and it can do some pretty good work now but I don't use it much anymore since I got the JET 1440, except when I need 4 jaw work, I really need a 4 jaw for the JET.
Good for you! I have a state of the art 1909 16x36 Pratt & Whitney engine lathe that I wouldn't trade for the world, worn out would be an understatement! It did help win the war with a tracer attachment to make artillery rounds and the ways are all but gone under the chuck. Grinding the jaws helped quite a bit but ,turning a part around is not an option.a 108 year old heavily worn machine