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[4]

Jet10X24 is it worth it.

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hman

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#3
I bought an old Taiwanese Grizzly 10x24 about 3 years ago for $1200. Great condition. Included both 3 and 4 jaw chucks, MT5-5C collet adapter for spindle, centers for spindle and tailstock, tailstock chuck, steady and follow rests. This was in Oregon, don't know what the market is like in San Antone. I'd try offering $1000, and see if he bites. Or else check what size and how many tool holders come with the QCTP, then ask him to include it in the $1100. Best wishes!
 

Ulma Doctor

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#4
Hey Ken,
i got nez's jet1024p for $1,100. pretty much the same way as this one is pictured.
nez described the iron desert, y'all live in down there.
if it doesn't look too bad in person, snatch it up!
good luck! :grin:
 

DAT510

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#5
It also looks like a later model. I have 1024P, this one is a PY. One thing I notice is it has a site oil level glass for the carriage, which is something mine doesn't have. The Treading Dial is different. And it also looks like the drive pulley/belt system may be more like Grizzly G9249, version of the Jet Lathe. As Ulma Doctor mentioned, in Northern CA, $1000-$1500 is what they typically price at.
 

Bamban

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#6
If did not buy the SBL 13 I would buy this one for a spare, just so I know I would not worry about any parts availability in the years to come

The one Ulma Doctor sourced for me works so great that it will never be for sale.
 

kvt

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#7
What he sourced the SB you just purchased. Because I would love to have a bigger one like you just got, That long bed would do good for me, I could use one like that instead.
 

Bamban

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#8
What he sourced the SB you just purchased. Because I would love to have a bigger one like you just got, That long bed would do good for me, I could use one like that instead.
Ken,

Austin is just a short drive for you, if you need to use a larger lathe, you at welcome to use it. You know where I live and you have my phone number. In an emergency need, even if were are not in town, a friend whom I served in the service with lives nearby, he has the keys to my house, he can let you in.
 

george wilson

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#9
Very similar to a Jet 1024 I had in the 70's. It was a good,strong lathe. I made many things on it before moving to a larger shop. Then,I sold it to get my 16".

But,in the shape that one is in,I'd say no to $1200.
 

Bamban

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#10
Very similar to a Jet 1024 I had in the 70's. It was a good,strong lathe. I made many things on it before moving to a larger shop. Then,I sold it to get my 16".

But,in the shape that one is in,I'd say no to $1200.
George,

You would enjoy running my 1024, with its VFD and proximity sensor ( The genius in MKSJ) it is a breeze to thread. check out the video. The Spider done by KVT.

The lathe cuts pretty straight, have chambered over a couple of dozens AR barrel with it.

 

Chris H

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#11
What is MKSJ? Googled it, and got a lot of "Don't click here!" flags from the AV program! :distress:
 

george wilson

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#14
The rusty looking 1024 might be o.k. if not rusted in critical areas,lke dovetails. Bed looks o.k.. But,anyone who lets his lathe get in that condition VERY WELL have never taken good care of it,like oiling things.

The trouble with 1024's being offered today is they are all gear heads. Those just don't give as smooth a finish as belt driven. But,speeds are easier to change,obviously. My Grizzly 16" is dead accurate,but leaves echoes of the gear drive on the work. Those have to be gotten rid of to get a smoother finish.

My belt driven Jet 1024 in the 70's gave finishes that looked nickel plated. Wish hadn't sold it,but needed the money for the 16" and the Bridgeport clone.
 

kvt

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#15
Did get it, Was not rusty, just covered in old oil and dust etc. Seemed like they did not ever clean all the cosmoline off of it. either, Pulled the apron and the gears were still covered in the original grease but hard as a rock. no wear visible on them once cleaned. Could still see the grind pattern in the ways where they were ground. can see the scraping marks for the slides, Jibs etc. Took it all apart and cleaned and putting it back together. My purple cleaning solution I found will take off some of the some of the paint with the old junk, but it looks good.
 

mksj

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#17
The jet 1024 are very nice small lathe, especially at the price and condition of the one you described. Since they use a two belt drive system, the motor is very well isolated, and the 3 phase motor is much smoother. I have built three VFD systems for the 1024's, I would suggest the ideal VFD motor size is 1.5Hp but 1.0Hp would also work well, an inverter type (Marathon BlackMax or Baldor IDNM style) give great motor control. The original controls are push buttons on the left side of the head, on the last build I integrated all the controls and tach into one control box. Alternative is to use two small pods, one for the direction controls, the other for speed, jog, E-Stop. The proximity sensor is an electronic stop system that can be integrated in the system and controls the carriage stop position. It works well for threading and repetitive and will repeat to a stop position of better than 0.001". The electronic braking allows quick stopping, but it can be an issue with threaded chucks. Lots of way to set these up, but they are very nice lathes if in good condition.
Jet Control System.jpg
 

george wilson

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#18
KV,I'm glad there wasn't really any rust! Sure looked like it in the pictures. BE SURE to OIL the gear train on the back side of the headstock. At least one runs on a PLAIN cast iron axle. A small gear,less than 2" in diameter. When I was younger and less experienced,I failed to oil that axle and it froze up and broke off. Those Asians seem to cast everything. Not that cast iron is not a good axle. But a bit weak. A steel axle with an oil bearing bronze would be best. Fortunately,since it was my only lathe,it only disabled the power feed. I hand fed a new axle of steel with an oil bearing porous bronze sleeve pressed on. And was sure to keep it oiled there after. Probably still running. I have no idea who has it now.

The only other thing that ever broke down was the starting switch of the motor(3/4 H.P.,IIRC.) I had a bad time getting the snotty parts man to help me out. WHY did a large company like JET NOT take Visa over the phone ? I made the mistake of mailing a check. Should have sent a money order,as the jerk made me,a customer,wait till the check cleared. It took me 19 days to get the $2.00 part that they charged me $20.00 for. Just a metal ring with a tungsten contact on it. I SWORE I'd never deal with Jet again! I even spoke to the president,a Mrs. Lyon(sp?) She just referred me back to the parts guy. Another man there,who I had previously done business with,was trying to get the parts guy to stop being a road block. It didn't work either.
 
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kvt

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#19
The jet 1024 are very nice small lathe, especially at the price and condition of the one you described. Since they use a two belt drive system, the motor is very well isolated, and the 3 phase motor is much smoother. I have built three VFD systems for the 1024's, I would suggest the ideal VFD motor size is 1.5Hp but 1.0Hp would also work well, an inverter type (Marathon BlackMax or Baldor IDNM style) give great motor control. The original controls are push buttons on the left side of the head, on the last build I integrated all the controls and tach into one control box. Alternative is to use two small pods, one for the direction controls, the other for speed, jog, E-Stop. The proximity sensor is an electronic stop system that can be integrated in the system and controls the carriage stop position. It works well for threading and repetitive and will repeat to a stop position of better than 0.001". The electronic braking allows quick stopping, but it can be an issue with threaded chucks. Lots of way to set these up, but they are very nice lathes if in good condition.
View attachment 237723
I am interested in this, the 10x24 I got prior had a VFD setup on it but did not have the TAC or prox setup etc. Just gave me forward and reverse with variable speed and E stop.
I only have 110 in the garage, but would like to get your info or whatever is needed to build. may take me a while and I am not one that does much in electronics.

George, I will Take a look at the shafts, This one is a newer version Some time in the 80s I think, Did not see a place to oil them but will look more.
 

george wilson

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#20
That might have caused my shaft to freeze up. I always did oil all the oil ports. I don't think that axle had a place to oil it.
 

Bamban

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#21
I am interested in this, the 10x24 I got prior had a VFD setup on it but did not have the TAC or prox setup etc. Just gave me forward and reverse with variable speed and E stop.
I only have 110 in the garage, but would like to get your info or whatever is needed to build. may take me a while and I am not one that does much in electronics.

George, I will Take a look at the shafts, This one is a newer version Some time in the 80s I think, Did not see a place to oil them but will look more.
Ken,

Go for it, build up a full-featured VFD system , you won't regret it. I use the proximity system on my 1024 quite often.
 

kvt

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#22
Ok, Yesterday I did a prelim cut and spring pass and was just over 0.001 off between the chuck and the end of a piece of AL.
I then Jacked up the end and put a shim under one side, Then let sit for a day. Well today I made a new deep pass followed by a small pass and then a spring cut.
I would say this is pretty close for over 9.5 inches.
20170717_163648.jpg

and this is the other end.
20170717_163648.jpg

It looks darn good to me.


here are a couple of pics of it, Still having to do some more cleaning. and either put it on the other table or, build an other steel table for this one.

20170717_163739.jpg

20170717_163816.jpg
 
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