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John deere 265

Blackhawk

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Got a 265 at auction that I am trying to get running, tracked the first problem to the starter. Dealer confirmed sylonoid worked and starter locked. Kind of figured because of all the hammer marks I saw on the side of it, use to do that myself to a bad starter I had in a 73 impala. Anyway, with no rebuild kit I decide if I can take a look and see what's wrong. Took it apart and see lots of gunk, especially the sealed bearing. I clean up all the gunk and soak the bearing in oil until I can get it turning smoothly, I know I should not be using oil but I just want want starter to kick motor to check compression and other stuff before I continue to put money in mower. All is going well till I start putting the springs that hold tension on the magnets back in, got three in going for forth and all of the sudden one bounces off my safety glasses and two bounce off my forehead. I could only find three. Any ideas where I can get a replacement? Dealer no longer sells replacement parts and a new one local is 500

lanham
 

Blackhawk

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Thanks for the link Frank.

was thinking of going that rout but wanted to save money in case engine was bad. I found a spring in my kit bag that actually worked. Fired right up, now I got to find out why I got no spark?

Lanham
 

Blackhawk

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started chasing the spark yesterday and poped the top to find a family of dead mice on the engine. not sure what its called but the part on the lower left side of the engine that provides electric to the plug was corroded pretty bad, cleaned that up and looking for the gap? not sure where to find it, then i will put it back together and see if i got spark. will pic wont load so i will do it when i get home

lanham
 

OldMachinist

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Should be a Kawasaki FC540V. I've got the workshop manual for it, PM me if you need it.
 

Blackhawk

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Roger that, it's the Kawasaki FC540V

put it all back together and still no spark, going to try to bypass the two (that I know of) safety switches and try again later

lanham
 

Blackhawk

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replaced the regulator and still got a weak spark, i can see it spark at the plug but when i put it against the block it wont jump:thinking: more troubleshooting today, i need to get this thing going so i can till for the garden.

lanham
 

Blackhawk

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Replaced the igniter module, John deere wanted 90, thanks oldmachinist I got it from kt parts for 12, now I got spark but won't start without ether. Took off the fuel line and turned over and fuel squirts then air then squirts fuel then air, weak fuel pump?:thinking:

lanham
 

Blackhawk

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After thinking on the fuel pump for a bit I changed directions and went to the carb, found some trash in the bowl and noticed the sylonoid had a loose wire. Tested it by grounding on frame and it worked intermittently then sparked out and died. Got a new one in the mail and should be here Monday.

Lanham
 

Blackhawk

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I put the new sylonoid in and it would not start, shot some ether and fired right up. Ran it for a few minutes and took off the jumper cables and it died. Hooked back up the jumper cables and would not start without ether. Ran for about 5 minutes and took off jumper cables and again died. No smoke and exhaust smelled fine. This is nuts, my grass is up to my knees already.

Does the starter charge the bat?

oh yea, I was doing yard work last week and found the spring that bounced off my fore head a month ago, what luck, I'll put it back in the starter and try again, the replacement I put in was very weak.

any suggestions?
lanham
 

OldMachinist

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Do you have a battery hooked up? Some small engines will not run without a battery. This charging system is a stator under the flywheel. Page 35 of the service manual has some troubleshooting info.
 

Blackhawk

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Was jumping from my truck, read the manual again and will try that.

thanks

lanham
 

Blackhawk

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Put in a new battery and mowed for about 2.5 hours yesterday and parked the mower. Checked the battery this morning and got 12.92 volts. Still got a slight surg to the motor and just a hint of smoke. The surg may be a leak at the carb because I used the same gaskets when I rebuilt and did not use an o-ring when I replaced the fuel sylonoid. Smoke, valve adjustment or carb adjustment:thinking:???

Now time to install the tiller and get some more work done.

image.jpg
 
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Blackhawk

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As luck would have it I am missing a plate to install on the lift lever. John deere wants 700.00 for the kit. I only need the bracket. Does anyone know where I might find dimensions for this bracket. Not sure what to make it out of either. It's the plate that pin 1 goes into.

lanham

image.jpg
 

OldMachinist

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Plate was likely made from 7 or 9 gage steel plate. I'd just use a piece of 1/4" steel to make it. What I do on something like this is to make model from 1/4" plywood to check fit. Sometimes it takes several times making it until it works right and then I make the steel one from the working model.
 

Blackhawk

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thanks don, will definately use that advice for an upcoming project I have. Went to the john deere store and they Han the bracket for 27 so I just ordered it, should be here Tuesday. I'm a llittle excited how the tiller will work. I'm very impressed with the tractor so far. Has lots of power.

lanham
 

Blackhawk

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Tiller really sucked, I can't believe they cost over 2000.00 new. I went at that piece of ground for at least an hour and could only get down to two inches in some spots, others it would only take the grass off. I was so ******, guess that's why the guy said he only used it once and sold it to me for 475.00

was so ****** I could not sleep, grabbed a flashlight and went back out last night to take a look and saw that the blades are turning the wrong direction, how could that be?

Lanham
 

RandyM

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The good news is you discovered the problem. Once you solve it, that machine will work like a charm. My guess is the routing of the drive belt needs to be looked. Oh, I fixed your pic in the earlier post.
 

Blackhawk

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Thanks randy,

looked at the belts for a couple of hours yesterday and could not figure it out, had to sleep on it. Took 10 minutes to rearrange the belts and works like a champ not

lanham
 

Blackhawk

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Here is a pic, took about an hour to hammer through clay and rock. This thing is a beast. The garden is about three times as big as you see in the pic.

lanham

image.jpg
 

n3480h

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Glad to see you have the Deere and tiller working, Lanham. Looks a lot like my STX38. Wish I could find a deal on a tiller like you found. Got 2 feet of rich, black topsoil here, no rocks. Growing lots of berries and the STX is mowing 2 acres at least once a week.

Tom
 

Blackhawk

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Tom,

I feel lucky to have found it at that price, I looked for 6 months on Craigslist and most people wanted 1500.00 for the tiller.

Lanham
 

1 of U

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you could add a 1 inch bar to both sides of the tiller on the top and then you could add
some extra weight to the down force of the tiller in action .

1 of U
 

Blackhawk

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1of u,

when the tiller was running backwards I thought that weight was the problem and was going to do as you suggest then found and fixed the problem. Now this thing will rip through rock, clay and tree trunks like crazy. I am very impressed and see why they cost so much money.

lanham
 

n3480h

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Does Deere offer floats? We got 5" of rain last night. Local fields look like rice paddies and lakes. Maybe our severe drought is over now.

Tom
 

Blackhawk

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Im in hillbilly heaven, was stuck all the time on the five acre hill I bought with all the rain we have been getting lately so I mounted the extra tires I got with the deere. I don't get stuck any more. I did a real hatchet job on the wheel wells that I will fix later.

Lanham

Why are my pics always upside down?


image.jpg

image.jpg
 

n3480h

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I thought you were just being considerate of our Aussie brothers. :rofl:

Tom
 

RandyM

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Robert, the pic is upside down because that is how you posted it. Here is a corrected one so we don't have to stand on our heads. Nice Deere! And great mod. Thanks for posting.

image.jpg
 
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