Just bought an old 1994 -12 X 36 Enco Lathe 110-2075

Mr Mike said:
Hello all..

I'm in need of Tips & Tricks advice, whats the best cover for the lathe, it will be sharing space with other Wood Machine Tools... Not to mention this is Las Vegas, A warm dry dusty environment.. I would like to keep the lathe as ready for use as possible after sitting clean an all oiled up..

I'm sure the ways oil will attract wood and dust while sitting...? And i'm sure others have the same issue and solution, any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks Mike
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Some people use bbq grill covers but they are limited sizes & most come in a fitted shape.

I use these covers by HTC called Tool Savers when I need to cover up my machines. They're breathable (although I don't have a humidity problem in my area) & they have magnets sewn into the corners to help keep them in place. They're not cheap compared to other things you can use but I like them. Prices have gone up a bit over the years though. I believe I got all of mine on Amazon. I've also got some smaller ones not shown.

(The one on the lathe shown below is their largest one & is not the size I normally use for it. I bought this jumbo one to try out, it's a bit too big for my liking. Not a big deal but it takes more work to fold it up & put away.)
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Keith Fenner has a Rutland 1236 that is pretty much identical to yours. I specifically remember that style motor mount. He made a few videos about the things he did to his.
 
darkzero said:
Keith Fenner has a Rutland 1236 that is pretty much identical to yours. I specifically remember that style motor mount. He made a few videos about the things he did to his.
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Thank you, Ill check out his channel...
 
Mr Mike said:
Hello all... The lathe is coming along, I am currently stuck on Roll Pins and their removal...

So I need to remove some roll pins that hold parts to this lathe, such as but not limited to the cross slide handle, there is not any chance on this planet that I'm using a hammer to remove it, I have a couple ideas for making a tool to gently remove them but why reinvent the wheel... so I thought surely others have had this problem solved.

If you happen to know the trick and like sharing please post it here... thank you.

If not Ill just drill out a C clamp and turn it into a Pin pusher, then after the lathe is all back together ill make a tool just for that.
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If you are not using a roll pin punch to remove them, chances are they are expanding from what ever you are using, even if it is a flat faced punch. Roll pin punches have a small ball that fits into the inside diameter and a flat face that sits on the shoulder of the pin. They will come out much easier with the right tool.
 
Papa Charlie said:
If you are not using a roll pin punch to remove them, chances are they are expanding from what ever you are using, even if it is a flat faced punch. Roll pin punches have a small ball that fits into the inside diameter and a flat face that sits on the shoulder of the pin. They will come out much easier with the right tool.
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Thank you Papa for responding, No EXPANDING pins here or issues as yet. I have removed Roll Pins from many a device with Punches in the past, which is why I would like to find a better more gentle way... The parts in question are the cross slide handle which hangs way out in the open without good support, along with the control handles on the apron & head to paint.

Thanks, Mike.
 
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This lathe thinks its funny and is leaking gear oil from more than one place on the gearhead.. This one is just full of surprise's. cleaning tools before you use them is a sure fire way of finding issues. I think Tubal Cain would be proud of me.

On another note while cleaning, unless the factory does hand scraping then someone else did so on the cross slide and gib. There is a gib between the backlash nuts that I have not see on any of my other lathes

After getting the cross slide back on and tuned up, its a bit tight but smooth and the best I can do is .0007 of back lash without it causing the screw to bind some. it use to be .0032... Assuming the dial separations are in thousands.

CrossSlideScraping.jpg

CrossSlideGibScraping.jpg
 
Hello all...

For now I want to use a cheap chuck other than the expensive Bison chuck that came on the lathe, I have another 3 jaw but while it was disassembled for cleaning I noticed a big ding on the chuck back plate, I chucked it up to see how bad the run-out on the face would be... its out by .0002

I removed the chuck back plate and checked the Lathe Spindle just to see, and the needle just barely moves, more like vibrations... I put the chuck back plate back on with same result, out by about .0002 and the circumference by .0001

Is that amount of run-out acceptable for a cheap chuck, mostly for doing test cuts and trying my hand at threading not more than say 3 or 4 inches from the jaws..?

I should be finished cleaning up the lathe tomorrow and would like the play machinist on some Rebar for some fun.
 
What tolerance is acceptable is a direct function of how accurate you need the finished part to be. I suspect you will be fine for getting started and can improve things as needed

John
 
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