Just bought an old 1994 -12 X 36 Enco Lathe 110-2075

[Mr Mike]

What tolerance is acceptable is a direct function of how accurate you need the finished part to be. I suspect you will be fine for getting started and can improve things as needed

John

Thanks for the reply.. This thing is night and day bigger then my 9" X 20" so I'm just dying to test it out, Hoping tomorrow is the big day.

 

[Tozguy]

That amount of run out on the chuck is fine for most purposes. Run out is irrelevant as long as the work stays in the chuck.

 

[matthewsx]

Thanks for the reply.. This thing is night and day bigger then my 9" X 20" so I'm just dying to test it out, Hoping tomorrow is the big day.

I've been working on my 13x40, traded for a 6" Craftsman....

Midnight and noon?


John

 

[Mr Mike]

That amount of run out on the chuck is fine for most purposes. Run out is irrelevant as long as the work stays in the chuck.

Hi... I believe this chuck hit the floor, quite the ding it has.

Thanks for the info.. Its currently soaking in evapo rust, after its done Ill repack with grease and slap it on the lathe, good way to learn. I think it was the chuck that comes with the lath new. Off the bat it will be holding rebar so I won't notice the run-out anyways I guess.

Also I got lucky sifting threw some of the box's I got with the lathe, and found the original hex cap screws for the chuck that was on the lathe when I bought it, Its a bison that mikey pointed out to me.. I took it apart too and it has run-out adjustment screws, so ill save it for down the road.

Have a great day.

 

[Mr Mike]

Hi all, I just found where one two of the leaks is coming from in gearhead, not an instant fix so I wont get to use the lathe this weekend, Bummer.

I removed the data plate from the front of the lathe and cleaned the front area up, went and got some gear oil and filled it to the center of the sight glass, wiped down the whole Gearhead and all the drips in the pan and ran the lathe for about 10 minutes...

Of the 4 possible places its leaking two of them are pin pointed.. Your not going to believe this but one of the leaks is from the bottom of the sight glass its self and the other is coming from the both, Possible 3 gear change levers at the top of the Gearhead. that leave two other areas that have oil drips, one from the rear behind the power box leaking on the motor and another just to the left of the threading gear change box.

Its one thing to spend a million hours when you buy an old lathe you intend to restore and another when you buy a used lathe and you find all these problems while cleaning it that need attention. lol I imagine this is a common problem with this model lathe. good thing I took off the data plate or i would have never found it.

On a good note I found the original Hex cap screws that go to my FrankenChuck when i was going through some of the box's I got with the lathe when I bought it. I was a short lived happy moment.

Thanks go out to mikey that pointed out that its a bison chuck - Ill get it all fixed and polished up like new for future use..

Thanks for stopping by, Mr Mike.

 

[matthewsx]

Those don't look too bad, most lathes leak at least some, I bought a 5 gallon bucket of oil from Tractor Supply which should last several oil changes and like a British car when it stops leaking check the oil....

VP Racing Fuels J20A Plus Utility Tractor Fluid 5 gal., VP2040014 at Tractor Supply Co.

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My vote is to just start using it and not worry about a few leaks or scratched up data plates, it's really just a tool, so if you can make stuff then that's pretty much all you can ask of it.

I didn't even have the apron attached to the carriage when I made my first chips today


John

 

[Mr Mike]

Those don't look too bad, most lathes leak at least some, I bought a 5 gallon bucket of oil from Tractor Supply which should last several oil changes and like a British car when it stops leaking check the oil....

VP Racing Fuels J20A Plus Utility Tractor Fluid 5 gal., VP2040014 at Tractor Supply Co.

Buy Great Customer Service VP Racing Fuels J20A Plus Utility Tractor Fluid 5 gal., VP2040014 in the Hydraulic Fluids category at Tractor Su

www.tractorsupply.com

My vote is to just start using it and not worry about a few leaks or scratched up data plates, it's really just a tool, so if you can make stuff then that's pretty much all you can ask of it.

I didn't even have the apron attached to the carriage when I made my first chips today


John

I do like your attitude and motivation... And on paper while I'm all in favor of your Vote to jump on it and start making chips, I cant..! I have a mild case of OCD and that prevents me from running my new tool... when I get a new tool it needs to be functionally correct and clean, Not pretty so much as clean. And if I don't fix it up now, because I know me... it wont ever get fixed, which is why I have that rule.

Not only that, If you noticed the leak is just over the electrical switches, if it is getting into the switch then it could act as a bridge and start the machine unexpectedly and that is a potential hazard. I can certainly run the machine without the Data Plate attached.

While I was out today getting some Evapo-Rust for the Chuck I did pickup some Rebar so ill be ready when the machine is.

Your a funny guy... I loved the " I didn't even have the apron attached to the carriage when I made my first chips today " That my friend is good stuff right there.

Thank you for stopping and checking on me, Mr Mike.

 

[Mr Mike]

Need a recommendation for a high quality bras ball oilier for the lathe... one that doesn't leak all over your hands and fingers when you tip it or pump it. ive had 3 different ones and they all have leaked and are messy... Thanks.

 

[mikey]

Reilang oilers are the best I've used. Sold on eBay. They don't leak, work sideways and upside down and are rebuildable.

 

[ACHiPo]

Yes another vote for Reilang. Jens Putzler is great to deal with, too.

Jens Putzier Tools

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