Just bought an old 1994 -12 X 36 Enco Lathe 110-2075

If the lathe has sat for any period of time, seals can dry out and cause leaks. I would just use the lathe and maybe a little heat and oil will help seal them up some. For the sight glass, at least on my Grizzly and a few other mfgs, the sight glass is the drain plug for changing the oil. Not sure about yours but it could just need to be pulled and cleaned.
 
This lathe thinks its funny and is leaking gear oil from more than one place on the gearhead.. This one is just full of surprise's. cleaning tools before you use them is a sure fire way of finding issues. I think Tubal Cain would be proud of me.

On another note while cleaning, unless the factory does hand scraping then someone else did so on the cross slide and gib. There is a gib between the backlash nuts that I have not see on any of my other lathes

After getting the cross slide back on and tuned up, its a bit tight but smooth and the best I can do is .0007 of back lash without it causing the screw to bind some. it use to be .0032... Assuming the dial separations are in thousands.

View attachment 336693

View attachment 336692

I have the 12x36 belt drive version of this lathe. It is factory "scraped" but is neither true nor flat.They do it for the oil bearing only.
 
Reilang oilers are the best I've used. Sold on eBay. They don't leak, work sideways and upside down and are rebuildable.
Yes another vote for Reilang. Jens Putzler is great to deal with, too.

Ordered the R01 - From Jens Putzler Done. 68.00 and worth every penny I bet.
Also saw on there site the mist oiler, was thinking that might come in handy for screw cutting and what not...?

Thanks for the help, appreciated.
 
If the lathe has sat for any period of time, seals can dry out and cause leaks. I would just use the lathe and maybe a little heat and oil will help seal them up some. For the sight glass, at least on my Grizzly and a few other mfgs, the sight glass is the drain plug for changing the oil. Not sure about yours but it could just need to be pulled and cleaned.

I have a drain plug on the back of the Gearhead.. Iv'e ran the machine for about an hour combined, testing and tuning all my setting.. Only thing that worries me is its leaking right over the control panel, would be fun if the lathe just started up on its own.

Thank for the extra info sir.
 
Ordered the R01 - From Jens Putzler Done. 68.00 and worth every penny I bet.
Also saw on there site the mist oiler, was thinking that might come in handy for screw cutting and what not...?

Thanks for the help, appreciated.
I bought my first Reilang oiler a couple years ago. Seemed to work ok, but wasn't crazy about the feel of it--it would kind of stick, then when I overcame the stiction it would spray oil. I needed a second one for my new lathe and ordered it. It's amazing--I understand what all the shouting's about now--smooth gradual oil delivery. I sent Jens an email and he immediately sent me a replacement for my first oiler. I had it in 3 days from Germany. Couldn't be happier with the customer service. Oh and now both oilers work great.
 
Last edited:
Ordered the R01 - From Jens Putzler Done. 68.00 and worth every penny I bet.
Also saw on there site the mist oiler, was thinking that might come in handy for screw cutting and what not...?

Thanks for the help, appreciated.

Mike, you may find that the shape of the tip of the oiler may not mate well with your ball oiler orifice. Mine didn't but I have an Austrian-made lathe that may use different shaped oiler ports. In any case, the tips are made of brass and are easily shaped with a file. I simply rounded the tip lightly and it fit perfectly. I can give a full squeeze to the handle and get no leaks around the tip.

I own two Reilangs, one for hydraulic oil and one for way oil. They both work flawlessly. If I need a drop, I get a drop. If I need more, I get more and I can get it no matter which way I hold the can. And I haven't had a leak in over 7 years now. Awesome products!

Jens is really good to work with as Evan said.
 
Mike, you may find that the shape of the tip of the oiler may not mate well with your ball oiler orifice. Mine didn't but I have an Austrian-made lathe that may use different shaped oiler ports. In any case, the tips are made of brass and are easily shaped with a file. I simply rounded the tip lightly and it fit perfectly. I can give a full squeeze to the handle and get no leaks around the tip.

I own two Reilangs, one for hydraulic oil and one for way oil. They both work flawlessly. If I need a drop, I get a drop. If I need more, I get more and I can get it no matter which way I hold the can. And I haven't had a leak in over 7 years now. Awesome products!

Jens is really good to work with as Evan said.
Mikey thanks for the tips, Its allot of bucks, but I bought it because you and ACHiPo both said its a good one, I know you guys would immediately understand and hate like I do the junk ones that leak all over the place.

The one I got isn't the flexible wand kind, but since its Omni directional it should be fine... I'm sure ill love it.
 
Last edited:
Hi all...

I like Evapo-Rust, does a pretty good job getting rust off parts, you can polish them up pretty good after too... But its not near as fun as say Electrolysis where you get to do a bit of science, and the parts seem to polish ip a little better.

I'm going to use the original chuck that I think shipped with the lathe originally, to start learning how to thread with. It doesn't look to bad for a 25 yr old chuck after spending the night in Evapo-Rust. There is a dent at the rear of it that adds a couple thousand to the run-out.

The Bison chuck is too big to submerge all the pieces so will have to be done n increments, Ill make a new Electrolysis tank soon because I have allot of parts that need to get cleaned, and doing them a few at a time this way will take forever.

CleanedChuck.jpg
 
Back
Top