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Just got a Model 40 Index Mill

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LarryTheKing

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A set of import B&S9 collets, while more expensive than R8, will likely be the only taper specific tooling you'll need.
You can get drill arbors, face mill holders, ER collet extensions, boring head arbors, etc. all with a straight shank, which you can then hold in a collet.

You can then also hold this straight shank tooling in an R8 or any other taper mill when you need to.

I run all my endmills/tooling in collets; good luck finding cheap B&S 9 endmill holders ;)
 

Flyrod

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LTK - this:

"A set of import B&S9 collets, while more expensive than R8, will likely be the only taper specific tooling you'll need."

is the first time i have heard that - from reading other threads, it always seemed that people had tools with the taper as well as collets to hold straight shank tools

do you really find everything you need comes in a straight shank for a collet?

if that were true, the cost of the import bs9 collets is less than regrinding and buying a set of r8 collets

obviously anything that will fit in a collet will fit in a collet and will not care how the collet is held, right?

so the real question (if i am understanding everything) is how much tapered tools does one use for average hobby work? - if the answer is practically nothing, as LTK says, then bs9 collets is the way to go

if the answer is lots, and you will rarely find them in bs9 and when you do it is expensive, the answer seems to regrind to r8

??????
 
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thanks Tom

if one has Index do the conversion, what exactly needs to go to them?

thanks
They need to receive from you is the complete quill assembly. That includes the spindle, housing, bearings, spacers, jam nuts, etc. The quill should be assembled with new spindle bearings prior to shipping. OR, they will rebuild your spindle assembly before grinding the R-8 taper. Of course, this will cost extra over just grinding the spindle.
 

LarryTheKing

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LTK - this:

is the first time i have heard that - from reading other threads, it always seemed that people had tools with the taper as well as collets to hold straight shank tools

do you really find everything you need comes in a straight shank for a collet?

if that were true, the cost of the import bs9 collets is less than regrinding and buying a set of r8 collets

obviously anything that will fit in a collet will fit in a collet and will not care how the collet is held, right?

so the real question (if i am understanding everything) is how much tapered tools does one use for average hobby work? - if the answer is practically nothing, as LTK says, then bs9 collets is the way to go

if the answer is lots, and you will rarely find them in bs9 and when you do it is expensive, the answer seems to regrind to r8

??????
Hey Flyrod, quick follow up:

I've had my model 40 (actually a 39) for a few years now and originally had the same conundrum.
As others have said R8 tooling is cheap and plentiful which is the major advantage of a regrind.

I made the decision to stick with B&S9 and have not regretted it yet.
Some tooling I run on my index mill:
  • a 1/8" set of B&S9 collets from 1/8" - 3/4" in which I hold most endmills
  • a surprisingly nice import keyless drill chuck with a 3JT to 5/8" straight arbor
  • an ER25 collet chuck with a 3/4 shank which I use for metric endmills and small drills (actually prefer it to the keyless chuck)
  • homemade boring head with a 3/4" straight shank (considered a used criterion, but this was a fun project)
  • an old, used fly-cutter with a 1/2" shank
In all, not counting endmills, drills, center finders, etc. I have maybe $200-$225 invested in all this?
I would like to get a face mill soon, which I will likely get with a 3/4" shank, but haven't decided between import and used.

Hopefully this gives you an idea of some of the tooling that is available.
Also, I'd be happy to chat more about the model 40 if you have any other questions :)
 

ezduzit

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I have already spent hundred$ on BS9 tooling and hundred$ more on tooling I plan to modify to BS9, when I have time!. And the time I've already wasted searching for that tooling is gone. Although the Index mill was cheap enough, I really screwed up by not recognizing what a bargain the regrind actually would have been.
 

Flyrod

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appreciate all of the responses

the choice is clear to me

thanks again
 
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