Just got a Model 40 Index Mill

Thank you

Anyone with thoughts on a vise

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I think you will be just fine using a 4" mill vise on your Index 40 mill. That mill is kind of in between sizes in such the 4" mill vise is a tad small and a 6" mill vise could be a little big for it. If you decide later the 4" is a too small, you can alway buy a 6" vise. I use a 6" vise on my 645 Index mill, but it has a little bigger table. There's times I wish I had a 4" vise for my mill.
 
Thanks Ken

What size is the table on the 645?

what I am thinking is going with a 6 inch to have something to grow with - since it is too big for the T slots, i am thinking of attaching a subplate (say 1/2" material, 7.5" x 12" (table is 8 by 30) with 4 cap head allen screws (counter sunk to be flush) into t-nuts in the slots to bolt the plate to the table - then drill and countersink flanged bushings from the underside (or a captured hex bolt at the right distances to then mount the vise

if anyone has done this and has thoughts on a layout, hardware etc, that would be great

thanks
 
PS - does anyone have a t-nut (make/part number) they use comfortably with their Index 40? - or just tap a hole in some 1" sq stock?

thanks
 
Congrats on your new mill
mill1.JPG mill2.JPG mill.jpg

I also have a 40 Index. B&S #9 taper. table power feed. I think I have a 4" vice on it . I removed the one that came with it and put a heavier one on that I had from another mill. These are pictures before I moved it out of the sellers basement:eek:
Hope you have fun
Cheers
Martin
 
Thank you!

Do you recommend t nuts that come up into slot so when fastened they are flush with the table? Or just to fit the slot underneath?

How do you deal with tooling? Is everything you have a tapered end and you bang out each time you switch

Or do you use a collet system of some sort? If so, which kind?

Thanks
 
Hi Flyrod,
I picked up a bunch of 4-6 flute end mills with a #9 taper. I also made a couple of end mill holders and a drill chuck holder with a #9 taper.I don't have any collets:(
As for "T" nuts , I can't remember what I have at the moment. I received a bunch when I purchased the contents of a shop a few years ago. I will have a look and let you know.
Cheers
Martin
 
Martin - am I reading your response right that you wish you had collets?

Put differently, if you (or anyone else yhat wishes to chime in) were starting out and had no tooling ( my situation ... mill was dirt cheap but no tooling) what direction would you go?

An additional option is to send the spindle to index and have them convert to r8??

I am new to this so I don't have the perspective to know what is the right direction

If there is no right/ wrong, what are the pros/cons?

Thank you!

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R-8 tooling is much easier and more abundant to get, which makes it affordable. $265.00 in US funds works out to about $345 Canuck coins plus shipping and a new drawbar. Kind of made it expensive to be re ground.
Then I found a bunch of #9 taper end mill's on Kijiji for 10 bucks each. I also enjoyed making up some end mill holders. They are not perfect by any means but they work really well.
I wish that I had collets because I am a toolholic.:eek: I have really had no need for them.
Maybe start out by searching EBay for a end mill holder with a #9 taper and start making chips. Then think about having it reground to R8 if you want.
The previous owner of mine ordered a new gear for the X axis table power feed. Not sure what it would have cost him from the manufacturer.
If you need any pictures let me know
Cheers
Martin
 
I don't own a Wells but your T-nuts should come up to be nearly flush with the table, most I have seen are that way (a T shape)
Mark S.
 
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