Just got an Index 645...

NorseDave

Registered
Registered
Joined
Oct 9, 2017
Messages
18
and I have no idea what I'm doing! Needless to say, there will be many inane questions and such to follow, as I have zero machining background. But it's a skill I've been interested in learning for a while now, so I'm looking forward to doing just that.

It's probably a strange route to take, buying a machine with no experience, but its worked out for me with welding, so hopefully this will follow a similar path. I considered getting a membership to one of the "maker spaces" somewhat near me, but for a 6 month membership, I could own a mill instead. I've also heard pretty mixed reviews on the skill levels of the folks that work there and are supposed to help you learn.

Anyway, I'll get started with some pics and then some initial questions. The mill was on Long Island, about 200 mi away from me. The mileage didn't really bother me, but having to drive through NYC w/ a trailer during the week is not my idea of fun. Fortunately, once I got there, loading was not a problem. Hallelujah!

IMG_2488.JPG

The next day, I had to resort to a somewhat lower tech, more physically intensive method to get it off the lift and into place. I'm quite happy I rented the lift deck trailer - made the whole process far less frightening.

IMG_2493.JPG

I ran one ratchet strap around the back of the mill and anchored it to the pair of rings at the end of the trailer. I kept another strap around the throat of the machine and anchored to the forward part of the trailer, which was still attached to the truck. I then gave the upper strap some slack, used the lower strap to slide it on the trailer until the upper strap was taut, and repeated the process, gradually inching it off the trailer. I got it onto some wood, then used some wedges and a prybar to slide the pipes underneath of it, eventually maneuvering it into its temporary spot in my shop. Honestly it was not nearly as bad or as puckering an affair as I expected. No complaints!

My knowledge of the mill itself came mostly from watching a few YouTube vids about the W-I stuff, as well as reading various forums. The guy I bought it from was closing down his father's business and he indicated that it had basically been used as a drill press for the last umpteen years. He didn't really know anything about it, and the guy that knew how to run it had been gone for almost a decade. It certainly needs a good cleaning, which I've just barely started on.

What I've figured out so far:
- Serial # 9746 I think (going from memory), 9x46 table.
- table, saddle, and knee all move through full range of motion. Could probably be a bit smoother, but not horrendous.
- motor runs quietly.
- quill goes down smoothly, a bit slow on the return once you let off it though.
- quill power feed works. This was interesting trying to figure out without any instructions, but I got it after a bit of head scratching and fiddling. Not sure if the mechanism that disengages it when it hits the stop works, I forgot to try that.
- table power feed partially works. Kind of. The feed part works, but the power part is missing! If I put it in the slowest feed rate, I can turn the gearbox shaft by hand, and see the table move.
- table surface is a bit rough with some drill holes. Ways look pretty good, just needed a bit of cleaning.
- has a Bijur (sp?) oil system installed.

Now on to the interesting stuff.

First, I'm not sure if it happened during moving, or if it was like that before, but the handle that releases the tension on the belts was FUBAR. Cracked in two places. It was somehow wedged against the machine such that it would run, but as soon as I moved it, it fell into 3 pieces. So, task #1 was to fab a new handle. After much cutting, bending, welding, and grinding, a new handle was put into service.

FullSizeRender.jpg

Next up, a bit of a puzzlement. The housing on the right side of the table, where the hand wheel, lead screw, etc. attach to the table, has been welded back together :eek: I have no idea what to make of this, other than it must have taken one heck of a hit. Only the one side shows any welding though.

IMG_2497.JPG

The usual pics of the table, ways, etc.

IMG_2499.JPG IMG_2501.JPG

The oil reservoir for the oil system looks like it came off a WWII-era submarine.

IMG_2498.JPG

Finally, I'll end with a question. This is under the table at the front. Is this the mechanism for adjusting the table? Is that crack supposed to be there? The other side looks pretty much the same, with a similar crack. It looks too even for it to be a mistake, but the welding on the table housing has me a little spooked.

IMG_2503.JPG

I'm looking forward to learning both this machine and how to use it and appreciate any and all input from those of you with far more experience than I!
 
Congratulations!
Getting a new machine home is always exciting.

I cannot speak about local maker-spaces......I think it's a great idea, but it _could_ be hit or miss depending on the people involved.
I'd suggest that you could use this forum and you-tube to learn much of the basics.

Good job on the equipment move. Slow and steady!

You're smart to be worried about that repair near the table crank........though It looks brazed, not welded.
That kind of thing always makes we wonder how it happened.....was the machine was tipped over/dropped during a previous move, or did something heavy run into it?
That fact that the table moves to it's limits in all three directions is great, it means no ways are broken and no lead-screws are bent.

Is that crack supposed to be there?

I am NOT familiar with that machine, but to me it looks like an adjustment to the gib.
I bet if you remove that set-screw/bolt you will see that the either the bolt or the hole is tapered such then when it's tightened in it expands the gib to adjust for wear.

Please keep us updated with your progress on cleaning and repairs.

-brino
 
Last edited:
Last edited:
Thanks for the help guys, this is just the beginning for sure!

I have looked at those two sites, and Rick Robison from Wells Index even emailed me a pdf of the brochure for the 645. Amazing customer service considering I was asking him about a ~50 year old mill, not talking about buying a current or even remotely recent one!

I was thinking that "crack" was probably for adjustment somehow, I will have to remove that set screw and have a look.

It has the B&S 9 (well, I assume it's 9) taper. Definitely not R8. Along with the mill I got a giant drilling vise (as seen in the one pic) that has about 1000 drill marks in it, (including one that's nearly halfway through the lead screw) and a bucket of "stuff". I emptied the bucket once home, and was delighted to find 5 BS9 collets, 1/8-5/8 in 1/8" steps. There were also 6 (!) drill chucks - 5 US-made Jacobs, and one Chinesium no-name. Also a few things that I frankly have no idea what they are. I took a pic of everything, but don't have it on this computer.
 
Dave,

My search for the manual has come up empty....mostly people looking for it.
Are you comfortable sharing the PDF manual?
If so, you could upload it to the "downloads" section here, or if you're unsure how, send it to me in a PM and I'll post it with a link in this thread.

If required, Daryl (aka. UglyDog) has some B&S #9 tooling available:
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/collet-identification-help-needed.62997/#post-519123

Post your pictures of "unknown objects" here.
Someone will ID them.

-brino
 
No manual, just a brochure (which is still kinda cool). I'll try to upload...
 

Attachments

  • 645 brochure.pdf
    848.8 KB · Views: 28
Congrats on the mill Dave! I have a 645 as well, about which I have an ongoing thread in this forum. I'll do my best to answer any questions I am able to.

The "crack" that you are concerned about is in fact the gib for the table ways. The set screw you can see locks the gib in place. To adjust the gib, you would first remove that screw. Then, there is another screw behind it which moves the gib in and out.

The gear housing on the right end of my table was broken/repaired as well. I suspect these injuries are due to a crash event. I would encourage you to disassemble that housing and inspect the gears, bearings, and the end of the feed shaft. Mine were pretty buggered up. You can see some details in my thread.

It sounds like you just need a motor for your table feed gear box. It takes a standard 1/4 HP motor.

Instruction manuals with assembly drawings are available from W-I. They are $50 if I remember correctly. It seems a little much for photocopies, but the drawings are indispensable.

And by the way, nice job on the tensioning handle!
 
My Serial Number Reference Book says yours was born sometime in the year of 1963.
Your 645 is about three years older than mine. From your pictures everything pretty much matches up with mine.
The picture showing the underside of the table, looks like a crack just above the gib screw, it maybe. Insert a Allen wrench in the set screw and remove. Then, take the allen wrench and reach down in the gib and back out the second set screw to get the gib out. With the gib out of the way, you should be able to tell more if that is cracked or broken off. If it's not broken, don't mess with it, just leave it as is, it won't hurt anything.
The Bijur oil pump is probably the same one that they have been using since their beginnings. That oil pump I was told is the same one used the Packard Automobile. Have no clue if this is true or not. Anyways, the broken and repaired piece on the end of the table, Mines broke off, too. I carefully drilled ad tapped a couple of holes and bolted the broken piece back on. You can purchase a new manual from Well-Index for a few dollars. Some replacement parts are still available for purchase.

T.J beat me to it!
 
One thing I forgot to mention regarding your first post - the quill isn't supposed to retract on its own like a drill press. There is a spring inside the housing where the handle attaches that only functions to counterbalance the weight of the quill. In other words, the quill should stay put when you let go of the handle. If it doesn't, the spring can be adjusted.
 
Back
Top