Just purchased a CL187A lathe - need some help

R

rfdes

Active User
Registered
Joined
Dec 10, 2012
Messages
52
I have recently purchased a nice CL187A (circa 1967 model with steel cabinet) but have not taken possession of the unit. The seller will load the lathe in my pickup but I am not equipped to get it out once I'm home. Once home, I would prefer to disassemble the major parts of the lathe while the unit is still in the bed of the truck. This will allow me to move the individual parts from the truck fairly safely. I need some advise as how to efficiently remove the major parts from the cabinet. I have no manual for this lathe. Is there any written manuals, etc. explaining how to do this?

Any advise would be appreciated.
Jim
 
There are some GREAT guides to renovating South Bend Lathes available on eBay.

Some have kits with replacement consumables such as felt wicks.

Search for “south bend lathe guide” and choose the right one for your model.

Here’s my South Bend 9a before and after a full teardown and rebuild using one of these guides

75f25f63565841ca793012048350856a.jpg
901cd5165ccead1e0eedd3a0a1dba47c.jpg


Chef Juke


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
It would be better and easier if you'd rent a U-Haul trailer. They have HD trailers for probably $15 a day and if it is a cabinet model, it should have holes drilled in the feet. Go to HF and get 4 wheels and roll it off. Why tear it down unless you're rebuilding it.
 
I appreciate the advice. I think I will rent the U-Haul trailer but I have some spare rebar rod that I would like to use instead of using wheels. Do you see any issues with this approach? The cabinet does have feet but I will be using 2- 6 foot 2x4s to lag bolt the cabinet to. Then the rebar will be used to roll the lathe around under the 2x4 'skids'. Any additional advice would be appreciated.
 
FOMOGO said:
Rebar isn't really round. I would get a few pieces of black pipe, or similar in 3/4". Mike
Click to expand...

How would 3/4" EMT hold up with a lathe that is in the 950-1000# range? Seems like I have seen people claim that it works just fine under these loads, however, nothing heavier.
Jim
 
  • Like
Reactions: Z2V
rfdes said:
How would 3/4" EMT hold up with a lathe that is in the 950-1000# range?
Click to expand...

I guess that depends on how many you use.
Use more pieces to spread the load and you should be okay.
-brino
 
When I moved my 10L's, I disconnected the lathe from the stand at the seller's location prior to them loading and transported them with the lathe on the deck. I thought that they were just too top heavy to transport completely assembled. Once I got a lathe home, I removed the head and the tailstock from the bed, which made it "light" enough for one man to move. I "walked" the stand where I wanted the lathe and backed up my pickup to the stand and then "walked" the bed to the stand from the bed. If you have one of those one ton shop cranes on wheels, it makes it relatively easy to move. I estimated that the two main parts were 600 LBs for the lathe and 400 LBs for the bed.
 
We use 1" PVC to move full safes. Once you have the first piece under the thing you are moving the rest is pretty easy. For a lathe you can use a floor jack to lift each end enough to get the pipe under. With a safe it is a bit more complicated but they can usually be tipped by a couple guys. The weight is spread over the length of the pipe and divided by the number of pipes you have under the thing you are moving. You would be amazed at the ease of moving an object that way, in fact take it very slow as getting it moving is easier than stopping it.
 
When I piked up my shaper, the PO used 1/2" or 3/4" PVC pipes to roll it around his shop. When my shed was delivered, they used a bunch of 4" PVC pipes to roll it in place. I was surprised both times, I would not have thought of using PVC for either move.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top