Kalamazoo 9a-w Saw Restore

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RandyHut

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I just purchased a kalamazoo 9a-w band saw from a used machine dealer. It is going to need some work, however it seems to be mostly there, and it runs. It looks worse than it is, i think. It has no blade on it and i can't seem to find for certain what size blade it requires. I even have a manual from Kalamazoo that is somewhat vague. One place it refers to the saw as 3/4" and in other places including the blade size chart is say 1". Any of you have a model 9A-W Kalamazoo saw?
Any thing i should look for as i start the restore?

For full disclosure, i have this same post on another forum, done before i realized this site is a better fit for me.
 
At least you ended up at the right place! Welcome to hobby machinist! Sorry, I don't know the answer to your saw question, but someone here will probably know and give you a useful and friendly answer.
 
Google found me this on a site that was selling one: Blade 10' 10 1/2" x 3/4" x .032"
Another one had this size: BLADE SIZE ......................... 1"x.035"x10'10 1/2"
So a quick measurement with a tape measure should verify if the length is right. Then it probably is capable of taking either width blade. By width I mean 3/4 or 1 inch.
 
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Yes, i checked it with a tape and the length looks good, need to know the width bfore ordering a new blade
 
RandyHut said:
Yes, i checked it with a tape and the length looks good, need to know the width bfore ordering a new blade
Click to expand...
Don't have a Kalamazoo, but measuring the distance from the edge of the wheel to the flange should give a hint. The teeth should stick out just beyond the wheel so if that distance is 5/8" or so blade width is prob 3/4"; if the distance is 7/8" or so blade width is prob 1".

You're right to take the manual specs with a grain of salt- the manual for my Kysor Johnson recommended a blade that was 1" too long. I used my 16' metal tape measure to verify the wrong length- apparently I didn't pull it tight enough. Using my flat 100' tape gave more accurate results.
 
Sometimes the pulleys are chamfered for tooth clearance. In any case, the blade teeth should not run on the flat of the pulley or the tooth set will flatten on one side, making the blade cut crooked. On some saws the teeth overhang the pulley, on others the teeth clear a chamfer, so they require no overhang of the blade.
 
Thanks Guys!
I knew this was the right place. Several responses with great info from here, nothing from the other.
Here is a pic of the BEFORE saw. So far i know that it runs, and the gear box seems smooth and quite, the vise clamp seems to work ok, the hydraulic piston holds and lowers ok.
needs some work on the blade guides, and a good cleaning and some new paint. The tray for the coolant needs some repair and the coolant pump is missing. However i got it for almost scrap price, so i can put a few dollars into it and hopefully have a much better saw than a HF saw, and this thing will cut a 9" dia.

20161223_134312.jpg
 
What a great project Randy. I am really interested in keeping tabs on you progress. She is going to turn out fantastic.
 
need some help. Does anyone with a 9a saw know the bearing number for the blade bearings on the blade guides? mine are all missing.
 
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