Large Diameter Countersink Or Deburring Tool

Olddaddy

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The main thing I do with my lathe is make spacers from 2" dom tube that has a 1.25 ID. I open up a few of them to 1.375 ID. I need to be able to countersink that ID in a uniform way that is quick and easy and repeatable. I figured on setting up a countersink or deburring tool in my tailstock and going at it that way. Anybody have one I can afford to buy? OR a better way?
 
How deeply do you need to countersink it and at what angle? My first thought is that I would grind a cutter for my 1" boring bar to the correct angle. You could make a similar tool for your tailstock.
 
Well, I thought countersink because a slight bevel on the ID would allow the spacer to fit tight up against a shoulder on a shaft that it fits on. The shaft has a slight radius where it meets the shoulder. So, it does not have to be deep, and angle could be anything around 45 degrees. I am a novice, so grinding cutters is daunting for me. My largest boring bar is about 1/2". Advice greatly appreciated.
 
Why not just set the compound at 45 degrees and just use the boring tool you are already using. It's already set at the correct angle for cutting the chamfer. When I do a bore, I normally just back the tool out with the compound to chamfer the inner edge, then reverse the lathe and move over to be back side of the part and clean up the outside edge.
 
If you have a QCTP, as you don't need to do the bevel up inside, you don't need the length of the boring bar. So you could set up a #1 holder with a standard facing tool and the compound set to 45 deg. and do the bevel with that. 1-1/2" dia. countersinks might be pretty expensive.
 
A counter sink that large is asking for chatter, squealing, and an ugly looking inconsistent bevel imo. All of my carbide inserts are already angled, I just kiss the edge. For consistency this is where a DRO comes in handy. I know what you are saying about the shoulder having a radius and the spacer needing to clear that.
 
A counter sink that large is asking for chatter, squealing, and an ugly looking inconsistent bevel imo. All of my carbide inserts are already angled, I just kiss the edge. For consistency this is where a DRO comes in handy. I know what you are saying about the shoulder having a radius and the spacer needing to clear that.
I actually have a countersink of the size he wants (it's about 4" in diameter). I only use it as a hand-held tool.
 
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