Laser engraving

If you have a CNC mill already, one other option might be a diamond point drag engraver - used without the spindle turning, if I understand the process correctly - here is one type and a little information on it -

http://www.benchtopprecision.com/engraving_tool.html

I have not done it, since I'm not into CNC at this point, but it may be an option on some things.
 
In my most recent job I laser marked thousands of 17-4 and C465 medical devices. We used a YAG laser and I can make marks that are just on the surface or deeply engraved. We used the laser to mark any metal items on the floor (brass, aluminum (anodized or not), stainless steel (316,316l,17-4, C465), tool steels, titainium). With the right setup you can mark just about any metal. The key with laser marking is determining how long you want the mark to last. If you want it to be forever than you engrave it. If you want pretty colors (and you can make some really neat colors) yopu trat it a little differently.

The company I worked for had just bought a just bough a new laser marker and ti cost ~$150K. This unit had everything (8x8 X-Y stage, rotary A axis, and a clean room compatible enclosure). The laser itself cost about $30k so it is not really for the hobbiest.
 
The comments from "SE" are on track as a solution - given the massive number of listings on "x-Bay" in the past year, there are "desktop or table top" (better option) CNC systems -many using MachIII and are relatively straightforward to setup and get results. Granted their spindles and motors are often on the "frail" side for any seriously long use but if their work envelope size is adaptable to what you intend to engrave (and you keep in mind things involving your specific "setup fixtures" then taking your time with maybe 2 more passes instead of "going for the gold" with a heavier cut depth - they would give you a variety of reasonable options. One in particular that is more impressive than many others goes by the name of "Sable15" and the construction methods and spindle type do outclass many of the others listed. This machine uses a stand-alone (bolt on) spindle arrangement with the motor and drive belt and even sells this portion separately so replacing either the entire spindle arrangement or some specific component is pretty easy to deal with. Another aspect to consider in your engraving is the "tool"(s) that you're going to use. I agree that the diamond point drag engraver is a good option - especially when turning but if the steel type (or especially anodized aluminum) is the stock you want to engrave on - consider looking for some of the single lip carbide (steep angle) cutters that are also available from "x-Bay) and for really inexpensive prices in packs of 10. They are fragile but effective when used correctly and I've begun to see additional coatings offered on many of them. That too will enhance their life and help your pocketbook. The use of coolants can sometimes be helpful in extending their life and with other metals they need to be cut "dry" - although I tend to try multiple fluids (tap cutting / etc) it's surprising how much help you can get out of simply using "3-in-1 oil" and keep the layer of oil spread out over the entire cut surface. Might be a little messy, but it helps to keep the chips suspended and moving away from the remaining "non-cut" surface. Patience and close observations will tell you whether your methods are working (as will the tip on those single lip cutters.) They will either be sharp or they won't be... if you have access to a grinder with diamond coated wheels you can re-sharpen then as well. The original carbide is where the cost is and the ones you're buying are most likely turned out on a production grinder system that takes about 10 seconds to complete and another blank is loaded for the next process. I hope this is of some help to your efforts.
 
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