Learning about 3D printers and looking for input

Shocking no one more than myself a Creality CR-20 Pro came up for sale locally last night.
I messaged the seller so we shall see what happens.
 
Solid machine with all of the upgrades I've done, sans the Octopi, already built in. I'm not familiar with the CR series. The Ender series went from an 8 bit to a 32 bit controller in 08/20 with nearly zero fanfare. They also went to "silent" steppers a bit earlier. The '20 Pro appears to have been released in 19, and has at least two different boards. But I can not as yet find board details. I'm gonna poke around the Marlin source code and see if something is mentioned.
 
The seller had it listed for $500.
Listing upgrades as 4mm nozzle (plus 6mm)
All metal extruder. ($80)
Auto bed levellling (this is standard on the CR-20 Pro)
Glass build plate ($30)
Roll of filament (no idea what)

Came down to $480 when I told him that 3DprinterCanada had it for $450 inc. free shipping.
Seller went to $450 without the filament or 6mm nozzle.
At $450 I'm getting maybe $100 (retail) in upgrades and saving the tax.
Same build volume as the Ender 3 series, same basic design. I can get a new Ender 3 V2 for $350 shipped.
I don't see the upside to the CR20...
 
Sorry, got distracted by a shiny new This old Tony video.

Best I can tell, the CR-20 came with an 8 bit board. But it's a newer, betterer 8-bit board than the Ender series had. I have not found proof of them switching to the V4.x 32 bit board or not.

Check Amazon for prices. Nozzles are cheap, I think I paid less than $10 for an assortment of 25 from .2mm to 1.0mm. Nozzles are consumables. Filament is $25 for a 1Kg spool. US prices, of course.

The built in BT-Touch bed leveler is a must. You would have to add this to the Ender. Filament runout sensor is a nice feature. When it works. And doesn't false. The CR uses a Mk10 extruder, where the Ender uses a Mk8. Again, I'm not sure how much difference that makes in the real world, as I only have a mk8.

If you are looking at new machines, I highly recommend the Ender 5 series over the Ender 3. The box is much more stable. The add ons can be built in, or you can add them yourself. Adding them yourself you learn how they work and how to adjust them, which you WILL have to learn either way.
 
RandyWilson said:
Sorry, got distracted by a shiny new This old Tony video.

Best I can tell, the CR-20 came with an 8 bit board. But it's a newer, betterer 8-bit board than the Ender series had. I have not found proof of them switching to the V4.x 32 bit board or not.

Check Amazon for prices. Nozzles are cheap, I think I paid less than $10 for an assortment of 25 from .2mm to 1.0mm. Nozzles are consumables. Filament is $25 for a 1Kg spool. US prices, of course.

The built in BT-Touch bed leveler is a must. You would have to add this to the Ender. Filament runout sensor is a nice feature. When it works. And doesn't false. The CR uses a Mk10 extruder, where the Ender uses a Mk8. Again, I'm not sure how much difference that makes in the real world, as I only have a mk8.

If you are looking at new machines, I highly recommend the Ender 5 series over the Ender 3. The box is much more stable. The add ons can be built in, or you can add them yourself. Adding them yourself you learn how they work and how to adjust them, which you WILL have to learn either way.
Click to expand...
Thanks Randy, looks like a new Ender 5 is the same price as what this fellow was asking. :D
 
Technical Ted said:
OK, a confession.... I couldn't take it anymore! I just pulled the trigger on the Prusa i3 Mk3S+ kit with textured plate for just under $800 shipped. 4 week lead time.

I was back and forth between this and the QIDI. I decided to go with the "rock". Fully open source, huge community, what appears to be great support, great reputation, etc..

Now, I'm interested in input on the different filament types and what brands of each users are having good luck with. But, I'll soon start a dedicated thread for that since it's a big topic change. I'm also interested in any suggested forum groups and internet sites for the Prusa printers and 3D printers in general. I've got a lot to learn! But, that's what makes things fun!

Thanks to all that replied!
Ted
Click to expand...

Hey all, first time poster here...

I am a new hobby machinist, and was involved in 3D printers before starting machining. I have a Lulzbot TAZ6, but I don't think anyone will go wrong with the Prusa line. They have a good reputation.

A few comments:
  • I have encountered a few machinist that sort of turn up their noses at 3D printing. After all, its end-product is wimpy plastic, and the tolerances are nowhere close to what can be achieved with metal. (Indeed, it was just such issues that made me start exploring metal working.) But I would encourage all to keep an open mind about out the technology, as it can supplement traditional manufacturing. For example, they can be used for rapid prototyping with the production of parts that can be checked for fit etc before committing to the time/cost/effort of traditional manufacturing. They can be used for pattern making for casting, and they can be used for making cases etc. And sometimes, if high strength is not needed, it can be used to make actual one-off parts. For example, I've made parts to hold an indicator on my lathe, and another part to hold a vacuum hose near my part by fastening to my quick-change tool post.

  • When I started with 3D printing, I had to buy a kit consisting of plastic parts and threaded rod, and assemble the thing over the course of a week. It was really hard for me at the beginning and I always worry others will have as much trouble as I did. Fortunately, the machines have gotten much better and easier, and there are tons of YouTube videos to help beginners get going. There is even a website that catalogs all the typical problems people get, e.g. under extrusion, excess stringing etc and give solutions. There are many many forums to help newcomers get going. So feel free to reach out.

  • If wondering about the quality of a given 3D printer, I have found that the YouTuber Maker's Muse is very knowledgeable, and gives fair and thorough machine reviews. For example, here is his review of the Prusia Mk3 from 2 yrs ago (
    )

  • Regarding various filaments, it's fun to go wild. I prefer to get one manufacturer that I'm comfortable with and get the settings dialed in. But then I'm not all that adventurous. :)
Best Wishes,

Kevin
 
kdtop said:
There is even a website that catalogs all the typical problems people get, e.g. under extrusion, excess stringing etc and give solutions. There are many many forums to help newcomers get going. So feel free to reach out.
Click to expand...
Thanks and welcome to H-M Kevin.
Do you have a link to the website you mention?
 
DavidR8 said:
Thanks and welcome to H-M Kevin.
Do you have a link to the website you mention?
Click to expand...

I think there are many sites, but I think this is the one I had seen before:
www . simplify3d . com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

Sorry the link is not clickable. When I made it a normal link, the forum software said it looked like I was posting spam, and wouldn't allow it. It is probably because I am a newcomer.

Kevin
 
kdtop said:
Hey all, first time poster here...

I am a new hobby machinist, and was involved in 3D printers before starting machining. I have a Lulzbot TAZ6, but I don't think anyone will go wrong with the Prusa line. They have a good reputation.

A few comments:
  • I have encountered a few machinist that sort of turn up their noses at 3D printing. After all, its end-product is wimpy plastic, and the tolerances are nowhere close to what can be achieved with metal. (Indeed, it was just such issues that made me start exploring metal working.) But I would encourage all to keep an open mind about out the technology, as it can supplement traditional manufacturing. For example, they can be used for rapid prototyping with the production of parts that can be checked for fit etc before committing to the time/cost/effort of traditional manufacturing. They can be used for pattern making for casting, and they can be used for making cases etc. And sometimes, if high strength is not needed, it can be used to make actual one-off parts. For example, I've made parts to hold an indicator on my lathe, and another part to hold a vacuum hose near my part by fastening to my quick-change tool post.

  • When I started with 3D printing, I had to buy a kit consisting of plastic parts and threaded rod, and assemble the thing over the course of a week. It was really hard for me at the beginning and I always worry others will have as much trouble as I did. Fortunately, the machines have gotten much better and easier, and there are tons of YouTube videos to help beginners get going. There is even a website that catalogs all the typical problems people get, e.g. under extrusion, excess stringing etc and give solutions. There are many many forums to help newcomers get going. So feel free to reach out.

  • If wondering about the quality of a given 3D printer, I have found that the YouTuber Maker's Muse is very knowledgeable, and gives fair and thorough machine reviews. For example, here is his review of the Prusia Mk3 from 2 yrs ago (
    )

  • Regarding various filaments, it's fun to go wild. I prefer to get one manufacturer that I'm comfortable with and get the settings dialed in. But then I'm not all that adventurous. :)
Best Wishes,

Kevin
Click to expand...
Welcome to HM. Prusa has their own forum on their site which seems pretty active and helpful.

Ted
 
kdtop said:
Hey all, first time poster here...

I am a new hobby machinist, and was involved in 3D printers before starting machining. I have a Lulzbot TAZ6, but I don't think anyone will go wrong with the Prusa line. They have a good reputation.

...... clipped

Best Wishes,

Kevin
Click to expand...
Welcome aboard, and thanks for the insight. :encourage:
 
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