LED A19 bulbs starting to disappoint

FYI, I replaced all my garage florescent with direct replacement Philips LED (no ballast removal) that I picked up from HD on sale. They are warrantied for 5 years, they are brighter then the florescents, save a bunch of power and do not flicker when cold. Must be a newer model because the older ones had more variable reviews. So far no failures out of 32 bulbs.

I didn't think about the par bulbs, because I figured they were just diff shaped a19..

what's someone from Fallbrook, CA know about cold weather? you are in a warm climate all year, aren't you?
 
I often switch out an A19 screw base to a PAR/BR type for work lamps and such. Temperatures can be in the mid to high 30's in Dec.-Mar in the mornings, the Florescent's would drive me nuts either rotating flickering, or do just one end. Rest of the year weather is descent and not an issue, but I hated the flicker and CRI/Kelvin of florescent's. The previous house owner loved florescent bulbs and reason why every single one was replaced. Personally in the shop I prefer a 3000-4000K bulb with a good CRI. I find the 5000K to be a bit too sterile/bluish. Unfortunately these days all you can do is try, and I agree with other's that heat can be an issue, but earlier LED bulbs ran much hotter. You might also look for a bulb with a larger heat sink like below. Not sure on the base, so would need to check that is the same as an A19.
 
The medium base is the same as the A19.
But check out the fine print on the package. It states nearly the same output as a 100 watt halogen (900 lumens vs. 1500 lumens). By what measure is 900 nearly the same as 1500? At 12 watts for 900 lumens, it isn't the most efficient

There are two common measures of LED efficiency, efficiency and efficacy. Efficiency is the total amount of light output divided by the input power while efficacy is the total amount of useful light divided by the input power. An incandescent bulb is a 360º radiator and much of the light directed to the back of the bulb is absorbed and therefor not of any use. LED's by nature radiate in a 120º cone so the light is directed out. The bulb on an A19 light is a diffuse designed to reradiate light over a wider cone angle to simulate an incandescent bulb
 
I often switch out an A19 screw base to a PAR/BR type for work lamps and such. Temperatures can be in the mid to high 30's in Dec.-Mar in the mornings, the Florescent's would drive me nuts either rotating flickering, or do just one end. Rest of the year weather is descent and not an issue, but I hated the flicker and CRI/Kelvin of florescent's. The previous house owner loved florescent bulbs and reason why every single one was replaced. Personally in the shop I prefer a 3000-4000K bulb with a good CRI. I find the 5000K to be a bit too sterile/bluish. Unfortunately these days all you can do is try, and I agree with other's that heat can be an issue, but earlier LED bulbs ran much hotter. You might also look for a bulb with a larger heat sink like below. Not sure on the base, so would need to check that is the same as an A19.
I agree, I don't like the 5000k temp, too blue and they mess with my eyes. yep, I guess I'll either do the corn cob or a heavily heat sinked lamp.

high 30s.. I mis judged your climate, having been to San Diego and Temecula 30-40 years ago, I thought it was always warm.
 
LED's love cold weather. I run LED lighting outside and temperatures can hit-20ºF. (we almost hit -40 one time but I don't recall that we bothered to go outside to turn a light on)
 
I don't know if you noticed the BS at the bottom of the packaging of that bulb.
NEARLY THE SAME... NOT its not even 2/3 the light output of a 100w halogen par bulb. but to them its nearly the same... The diff between 1500-900 = 600... 1500/3 is 500 so 2/3 is 1000 NEARLY THE SAME.. Fing marketing. Lying scum.
parbulbs.jpg
 
It's a marketing ploy. It's even worse when you look at flashlights. There are no holds barred there because the beam angle is undefined. You will see claims of a million candlepower light running on AA's. I will not buy LED lighting unless it is completely speced.
 
so I went to lowes, picked up a bulb.. they only had daylight, I am not a fan of the blue .. but this must be around 4500k because it doesn't seem too blue, not 5000k..
Here's the bulb I bought, the 150 was too heavy I thought so I went 100w equiv.
20210920_164528.jpg
well, it is much brighter.
it doesn't show up well in the pics but it's a big diff. I have an old Weston meter, and it will just register light, as well as speed and fstop...
as a ref I took a light reading.
the old bulb is a 50, the new bulb registers 300. I see a lot more detail, where as the old bulb is much more diffused. So that's good.
I may buy another one for the other light.
20210920_164528.jpg20210920_163826.jpg20210920_163910.jpg20210920_163926.jpg20210920_163935.jpg20210920_164038.jpg20210920_164048.jpg
 
FYI, I have a similar work light over my bench, similar but also with a larger ring florescent and stuck a PAR38 bulb in it. But either way, looks like an nice improvement.
 
Back
Top