Lets Talk Chainsaws

jbolt

Active User
H-M Supporter Gold Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2013
Messages
1,844
I'm going to need chainsaw for the new property. I have about 30 dead trees to take out. Last chainsaw I had was a crappy Poulan. I'm looking for a good quality saw with a 20" bar. Any recommendations?
 
Poulan and Poulan and poulan no good, loggers in AR mostly used stihl, Johnson Red, huski.
 
I've had fairly decent luck with Husqvarna, though it really depends on the model. Given you're looking for a 20", but as anecdote I have a 142 which is an acceptable 16" saw, but it's a little doggy compared to some other models. That said, it's managed to do 100% of everything I asked of it including cutting up a willow that was well over 30" DBH, but a pro would probably toss it for something larger and with more power. I'm not recommending a 142 as it's both smaller than what you're after and not exactly their best performer, but it serves to demonstrate that there's a lot of variables to consider. I can make a doggy little saw do my occasional tasks, I don't mind spending a little more time here and there chewing through something bigger than my saw was designed for because I do so very rarely these days, others might feel differently. How often do you expect to use it and what's the DBH of the largest tree you expect to deal with?

When I still had my cabin and woods, I had a STIHL MS460, which was a very nice saw, but it sold with the property as I had no real use for it when I moved. I bought it used, but it was a fantastic saw and served me well in transforming a neglected woodland into prime woodland estate.

If you're like the typical homeowner with a small woodlot, get a decent saw of most any brand and it'll serve you well if you maintain it.

Some will chuckle at this, but my go-to saw is typically my Silky Sugoi pruning saw. It's often faster than the chainsaw for quick jobs removing a few limbs under 9".
 
Do you really have 40" trees? if not might not really need 20" bar and unless pro level may be more show than go.
I have an Echo with maybe 14" and Husky with maybe 18".
The Echo is lighter, starts easier, and is generally used unless I have really large or tough stuff to cut.
 
STIHL is number one in chainsaw, buy the best model you can afford from STIHL, the biggest trouble people have is not mixing fuel and oil right then they are hard to start and don't run right.
 
Do you really have 40" trees? if not might not really need 20" bar and unless pro level may be more show than go.
I have an Echo with maybe 14" and Husky with maybe 18".
The Echo is lighter, starts easier, and is generally used unless I have really large or tough stuff to cut.

I would rather have a larger saw that can take a smaller bar than overwork a smaller saw on the occasion it will be needed for larger work.
 
STIHL is number one in chainsaw, buy the best model you can afford from STIHL, the biggest trouble people have is not mixing fuel and oil right then they are hard to start and don't run right.
That reminds me of a YZ 250 dirt bike I used to have that was finicky about oil type and mix but when you found the right combo holly crap that thing moved. Had the narrowest power band of any dirt bike I ever owned.
 
I apologize if this post seems condescending, it's not intedned to be but rather intended to prevent damage and/or injury.

For anyone who hasn't had training in felling trees, don't fall into the all too common trap of assuming you know a safe way to fell a tree. It can be a very dangerous activity that *seems* to be straight forward and simple, yet is often misunderstood and there are numerous examples of people making common mistakes, sometimes forfeiting life and property in the process. I'm all for dilettantism, but dangerous processes require careful study to increase the chances of success.

Please review the OSHA logging eTool, at a minimum, if you aren't familiar with the process. It's easy, concise, and the life it saves may be your own.
 
Back
Top