Let's talk , Cincinnati Toolmaster 1A and 1B

cincinnati JA

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Hi everyone , I recently purchased a Cincinnati Toolmaster 1A/1B and I have been doing a lot of research and buying parts and what not but the most frustrating part of it all is the Cincinnati part numbers ... Does anyone know of a cross reference for the cinci part numbers?

Well all of that aside I have figured most of it out anyways but I ordered two gear belts , 270H100, but I have a problem. When I received them and measured they are 1" wide and the gear belt on my mill was about .700" and the gears are about .830" wide/thick . But it still reads 270H100 so I'm left scratching my head . What is the belt numbers you guys are using? I'm guessing that someone cut this belt number down maybe .
 
Hi Josh, Mine came with new belts, Ill get the numbers today and get back, I do know the bottom
(cog belt) says Gates commercial. Although the top is a V belt they still have to be matched. Sam
 
Hi Josh, Mine came with new belts, Ill get the numbers today and get back, I do know the bottom
(cog belt) says Gates commercial. Although the top is a V belt they still have to be matched. Sam

Thank you Sam! It's always so disappointing to order something and when you get it its wrong :( . At least I can return them and only lose shipping both ways which is kind of a bummer but oh well!

I talked to Duke over at Cincinnati and I gave him some part numbers because thy might still have some old new stock in storage somewhere but every time he says he's going to quote me always tells me that the parts are going to be 1000s of dollars. This I don't understand really but I so appreciate his honesty at least. If you have a machine that's obsolete and you really provide no support for them then why not sell off all your old new stock and for a reasonable price as well? I own four old Farmall Cubs and they sold off all their old new stock on a lot of parts but you can get the stuff for a good price . Oh well I have to keep my eyes and ears open for cinci parts.

Know of anyone with a good vise for sale ? I haven't bought a vise for the mill yet. I really liked the looks of that universal vise from Cincinnati .



Josh
 
I also need some info on motor shafts. As you will see in the photos below there is a red motor on top of the machine. It looks like someone decommissioned this mill and was using it as a drill press only so they made a contraption out of the old jack shaft to work with a 240v single phase motor . Well I didn't like how they had this set up so when I bought this machine the dealer threw in a Bridgeport GE pancake motor (1hp) . I made it for fine without the adapter ring but I really want the ring . I don't like how the motor will be bolted only to the aluminium housing . The problem is if I raise it up the 1/2" the motor shaft is too short for the pulley to be properly placed far enough on the shaft. I will post more detailed pics later. So has anyone changed shafts on a motor before ?

Before
D97A96C2-1C6B-4709-A442-E7160B17C694-6109-0000021C7B50A8AD.jpg

After
C6E1B458-3372-46B8-9FB7-E71D3800E9C2-12595-00000597E1FE828B.jpg

Theoretically this motor should have zero vibrations and "wabble" so I guess I should have no issues with it being mounted directly to the aluminium housing but I'm still weary .

If anyone has a source for an original Toolmaster pancake motor for this machine let me know because that's what I really want or one that fits the same at lease. The original motor for this machine was 1200rpm the one I have now is 1725rpm but I've already calculated the spindle speed change and cinci also had an option for a 1800rpm motor which I'm not opposed to either but my spindle speeds are for 1200.

D97A96C2-1C6B-4709-A442-E7160B17C694-6109-0000021C7B50A8AD.jpg

C6E1B458-3372-46B8-9FB7-E71D3800E9C2-12595-00000597E1FE828B.jpg

D97A96C2-1C6B-4709-A442-E7160B17C694-6109-0000021C7B50A8AD.jpg

C6E1B458-3372-46B8-9FB7-E71D3800E9C2-12595-00000597E1FE828B.jpg
 
Did you check out Graingers, I'm positive they carry pancakes I think GE. And where is the 1/2 comming
from is that an adaptor ring? So thats causing the shaft to be too short? No matter what you decide
to do the belts stay the same. I looked yesterday and the bottom belt is "Gates Power Timing Belt
#270-HO75" the top belt is just a plain jane V belt and I have no number anywhere even used a
spy glass, and both my belts are new, they can measure that at Napa. And then Is there a real need
for a pancake most any thing will work such as many years ago my big lathe came with a 15hp 406vt (I
think) three phase big thing- and I put a 110v from a table saw (just for now) and the "just for now"
motor is still on there for 30yrs no problem. Im thinking more like a 1/4" alum ring. sam
 
Did you check out Graingers, I'm positive they carry pancakes I think GE. And where is the 1/2 comming
from is that an adaptor ring? So thats causing the shaft to be too short? No matter what you decide
to do the belts stay the same. I looked yesterday and the bottom belt is "Gates Power Timing Belt
#270-HO75" the top belt is just a plain jane V belt and I have no number anywhere even used a
spy glass, and both my belts are new, they can measure that at Napa. And then Is there a real need
for a pancake most any thing will work such as many years ago my big lathe came with a 15hp 406vt (I
think) three phase big thing- and I put a 110v from a table saw (just for now) and the "just for now"
motor is still on there for 30yrs no problem. Im thinking more like a 1/4" alum ring. sam

Hey Sam , thanks for the number. I ordered two and am returning the others. Grainger does sell pancakes so I may look into that. I have a 1725 1hp 3phase pancake to go on top and I do believe it will work. Maybe I can just tig weld an extension to the exhausting shaft and that will give me the added security.

Josh
 
When building VW motors we used something called case savers to give more thread in the block because of how thin they were. There nothing special, similar to a helicoil. They give you more threads in a thin plate. Might work for you :thinking:
 
Josh, we had a Delco tractor starter motor come in with a broken shaft just before the Bendix. We chucked
up the amature faced off the end -center drilled that. Faced off the drive end center drilled that. Then
again drilled both (ends for a press fit dowl pin) and pressed it. Now being back together, the whole
amature rechucked with tailstock dead center. Next we used parting tool right at the pinned joint right to the pin.
Migged that up turned off the weld-done. All done on a SB 9A. Thats how to lenghten your motor shaft.
There is way more stress on a starter than a motor with belts and this is still working today. I suggest
doing this, the (shaft) addition should have a larger diameter than the motor shaft so after the addition
can be turned exactly the same as motor shaft, the lathe will cut a keyway just fine. Guess ya gotta get
that 9A making chips. Ill look in my Grainger 5,000 page book but I think you sit down & seat belts on
Graingers aint cheap. I you were here I'll do it for zip or send it to me You got my email add. Samuel
 
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When building VW motors we used something called case savers to give more thread in the block because of how thin they were. There nothing special, similar to a helicoil. They give you more threads in a thin plate. Might work for you :thinking:

I thought about heli coils because I have a few kits around. I am trying to make the machine as original as possible but this Bridgeport motor will have to do !
 
Josh, we had a Delco tractor starter motor come in with a broken shaft just before the Bendix. We chucked
up the amature faced off the end -center drilled that. Faced off the drive end center drilled that. Then
again drilled both (ends for a press fit dowl pin) and pressed it. Now being back together, the whole
amature rechucked with tailstock dead center. Next we used parting tool right at the pinned joint right to the pin.
Migged that up turned off the weld-done. All done on a SB 9A. Thats how to lenghten your motor shaft.
There is way more stress on a starter than a motor with belts and this is still working today. I suggest
doing this, the (shaft) addition should have a larger diameter than the motor shaft so after the addition
can be turned exactly the same as motor shaft, the lathe will cut a keyway just fine. Guess ya gotta get
that 9A making chips. Ill look in my Grainger 5,000 page book but I think you sit down & seat belts on
Graingers aint cheap. I you were here I'll do it for zip or send it to me You got my email add. Samuel

Sam , sounds like a plan!

So what is the proper name for the wrench/tool to pull apart those gears?

I need to get the front set out so I can pull out the rear pulleys.

Also I need to know what some other things are:


The fuse circled in red ... What type do you guys have? I pulled out a N3 Buss fuse which is a 230v 3 amp which seems quite low don't you think?

Also circled in green... What are these exactly?

87C87B33-2E2E-4645-B7CE-17266F6A1163-2912-000001C21C56AB54.jpg

601A9958-6CA4-4F39-88F8-FDCA0A2EB9B1-2912-000001C215219890.jpg

Also is the 115v step down only for the light ? I'm not exactly sure what the "starter" is .

87C87B33-2E2E-4645-B7CE-17266F6A1163-2912-000001C21C56AB54.jpg

601A9958-6CA4-4F39-88F8-FDCA0A2EB9B1-2912-000001C215219890.jpg

87C87B33-2E2E-4645-B7CE-17266F6A1163-2912-000001C21C56AB54.jpg

601A9958-6CA4-4F39-88F8-FDCA0A2EB9B1-2912-000001C215219890.jpg
 
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