Leveling feet on the lathe itself? Ideas?

Pcmaker

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My table is not level. I ordered a PM 11x27 lathe that I should get sometime after Christmas this year.

Is it a good idea to level the lathe itself instead of leveling the table? In order for me to level the table, i'd have to redo it from the ground up. It'd be easier for me to level the lathe itself. I'm trying to come up with leveling feet ideas for my lathe. I figure it'd be a lot better than shimming.

Another issue is that machinists' levels are super expensive. I'll probably just use a digital level for now and make sure the ways are level on the Y axis on both ends of the ways. I hear the X axis isn't important at all as it's not twisted the bed.

I want to be have less than .001 difference in diamater of whatever I'm turning on each end.

Anyone have a Precision Matthews 11x27?

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I have one. The idea when we talk about leveling a lathe is about the twist of the bed. Level to the horizon / gravity is nice for round things rolling around, but the lathe doesn't care. There is oil in these, so it's probably required to not be upside down or similar, but perfectly level isn't an issue.

A precision level isn't required, but it can help speed up the process. Even with one, you still need to do a two collar test to finish up. You might have to do the test a few more times without the level, but if your bench is too far off level anyway, a reading with a precision level is just going to be pegged anyway.

As for leveling adjusters, there's no need to get complicated with them. I used some flat steel stock from the hardware store and some 3/8-24 bolts and nuts. The center hold down bolt is 1/2-13. I ended up using metric washers as they fit better. The plates have 2 unthreaded holes for structural screws holding the plate to the drip pan and the bench cross beam. 0.001 taper isn't difficult to achieve with them.

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I made some out of hockey pucks.
Those are beauties! Curious how you milled them, I've heard of dropping rubber in liquid nitrogen or freezing first.
I bought a set of self-leveling pads from MSC Self Leveling pads my shop floor isn't perfectly flat, hoping it will make a difference when the new lathe arrives. for $12 they're very well made and hold 5000lbs
 
I too made feet from hockey pucks (used ones are much cheaper, see eBay). As is, they machined fine as I counterbored the hole to recess the bolt head and fender washer.
Only problem for me was trying to rely on them to crank the apparent twist from my old Logan 10". Just as I'd approach the goal, one foot would raise off the floor. I'd need to anchor the feet into the concrete to overcome that. I choose to leave it as is.
 
Only problem for me was trying to rely on them to crank the apparent twist from my old Logan 10". Just as I'd approach the goal, one foot would raise off the floor. I'd need to anchor the feet into the concrete to overcome that. I choose to leave it as is.

I wonder if you left it raised off the floor and put a weight on that corner for a while it might eventually bring it down a little to make the difference, especially since it sounds like it is close. If it can be twisted to mess it up it can probably be twisted back. Dont know how long the weight would have to be on it to make a difference though. Maybe a week to months ?
 
What did you guys use to level your lathe? Machinists' level?
 
MarkM - nice!
- so to change frame elevation, you hold the square area (1) with a wrench & rotate nut (2) to jack it up or down?
- are the metal inserts made of steel or?
- is are they glued into the puck or just important that its a tight fit?
- if the floor has a bit of slope then I would expect the edge of the bolt (only) would be contacting the metal. Have you found this to be an issue in any way like wearing an arc recess or metal on metal vibration etc.?

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The classic rubber dampening adjustable machinery mounts option of course, but they can get spendy in larger diameters.

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