I'd use Forstner wood drill bit to cut a bit flat bottomed shallow hole in a hockey puck. I'll be using nearly identical feet and that design to level my lathe in the nearer future when I come up with the ambition to get it up in the air and put in the leveling feet.
They're pretty cool, but insanely expensive outside of an auction from a *very* industrial clearing house. Unfortunately, the leveling setup inside the cast cabinets of my Sheldon Sebastian A5 lathe doesn't have room for those large spherical washers or the larger footing of the leveling pad. So instead, I bought those JW Winco ones from Amazon to perfectly fit the already provided 1/2-13 threaded hole for a leveler. To make up for the small 2" contact area on Winco/Te-Co feet, I'll be putting a tight fitting flat bottomed counterbore into a hockey puck to fit the pad and using Loctite 380 to bond the pad into the puck. Particularly on my roly-poly basement floor, I need the travel of the Winco type levelers because the wedge style ones bottom out long before I get anything close to level.
These are pictures of the cribbing to get my Rockford MV100 down onto those Unisorb wedge style levelers. Unfortunately I need to pull the hockey puck from a couple of them and face it down quite a bit, since at least one corner reaches the end of its upward travel long before the mill gets even roughly (carpenter's level) level.
I received the leveling feet. Can someone explain how they work? I know a dumb question but I have never used this type and I don't want to screw up the mounting proper. Does the mill rest on just a nut? If so I would need two more nuts. The other used to lock the one of the sides.?
Also, is there a reason to connect the front and rear mounts with a couple crossmembers (welding)? I've seen a lot of bases with just the front and rear members.
If the leveling feet are attached at the hole in the foot, doesn't that put an awful lot of strain on that one tab? I was thinking of putting a steel plate between the foot and the actual leveling pad so the weight is distributed around the whole foot and not just the tab. Is that necessary? I see lots of big lathes on youtube with the levelers just on the tab of the foot.
@mariner3302, you would be amazed at the amount of strength in those tabs... My Sheldon-Sebastian has 6 tabs on the insides of cast cabinets and they're more than enough for the whole machine. You also have to think about the total weight of your machine, which based on those legs, is less than a thousand pounds with equipment in the tray and a workpiece in the chuck, so you'd only have 250# on each pad. The more horrifying thing, in my opinion, is how much more stable the machine will be after you get leveling feet in all the holes and weight on all of them evenly. That says that it *was* resting on two or three of those pads instead of all four. Or maybe that was just my experience with my lathe....
@ddickey I'm not sure what you mean about cross members, so I'm not sure what to tell you there. As far as what the mill rests on, it'll be the nut. For my own piece of mind and to make sure that it doesn't wander, I used flange nuts (not terribly expensive, got mine from Tractor Supply) in combination with an extra thick grade 8 washer.
On my end, I did get my lathe up on feet and leveled over the weekend, though I haven't taken many pictures yet, so that's next on the docket. I'll put together a better, more interesting description in a day or two.