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Lifting my new lathe

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Firstgear

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I purchased a 1440GS lathe that will be forthcoming very shortly. Planning ahead for unpacking and moving into final position the manual says to put 1” bars through specific holes in the base. I have 7/8 rebar, will this do the trick?

Are there alternative lifting methods I can use versus the steel bars?
 

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Cadillac

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Machine skates. Expensive but easy to build. Pallet jack works if still crated. I used 1” bar because I had it. I would think 7/8” would work just don’t have a lot of stick out. I had a bobcat with forks so it was pretty easy moving mine.
 

Firstgear

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I am renting a skid steer to get it off my trailer (mill also). I don’t want to incur extra day or so of rent, so I need to have a solid plan in place. The lathe comes mounted to the base.
 

Firstgear

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I have 4 car moving dollies I use to move my cars around the garage. I thought that I could drill a hole in the center and using 5/8 threaded rod bolt them to the lathe or mill and move them on those. Each one rated to 1500 pounds. Fastening then by the threaded rod to the machine to be moved should eliminate it from slipping out from underneath. This is a back up plan......I am hoping I can use the skid steer.
 

Cadillac

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Ive always used lengths of 1" and rolled my heavy stuff into place. Then I have a Johnson bar for final drop. Without a proper way to lift off the crate or pallet it can get sketchy. What you'll need on hand is some lumber for blocks, two or three LIFTING straps, and some solid pipe,large pry bar too. You should have no problems if using a bobcat and going in a garage. Keep it low and think it through should be quick.
 

NortonDommi

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I have a similar size lathe and made a lifting plate that clamps under the ways. I have moved it around wet,(oil and full tank of coolant), without problem. Series of pictures on an unused computer but have this one. Plate is made from scrap. Two pieces of 10 mm screwed together to make a big T-nut with a lifting eye screwed through the center with a pinned nut underneath.
Placed over hard point about 20" from face of headstock. Tailstock at end of ways, Apron about middle. Start lift and adjust balance with the Apron.
Weight of lathe on stand is approximately 650 kg dry.
I got the idea from a bit of research that showed this is how many manufacturers of much bigger machines moved them in the factory, I even went so far as to calculate the stress in the ways! Plate is 10" long, a snug fit with about 0.020" clearance on the sides and it takes about 1 minute to set up. The advantage is no strops, danger of laying over leadscrew etc, high lift point. Wish I had the photos of it high in the air! Dragged it on rollers along gravel drive into garage and under hoist.
 

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pacifica

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I made a similar plate, but two of them. Very stable and doesn't tip easily. I 've also used the round bars in cabinet set up and I don't feel it is as stable.lathes: 1340gt and Harrison boxford.
 

vocatexas

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You can get the lifting straps that were mentioned at Harbor Freight for a very decent price. For home use, no more than they will get used, they'll do fine and are affordable. I've used mine to lift very near the load limits they are rated for and had no problems.
 

Firstgear

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You can get the lifting straps that were mentioned at Harbor Freight for a very decent price. For home use, no more than they will get used, they'll do fine and are affordable. I've used mine to lift very near the load limits they are rated for and had no problems.
How exactly were the straps placed and used? It’s not clear to me. I know that I need to be very careful around the the various rods on the side of the bed....all of this and I don’t have a plan yet where they will go. I think that I will put a layout on a piece of paper. Looks like PM is shipping next Wednesday and should get to the far west side of Cleveland by Friday. That means I’m should be able to get it from the local FedEx terminal. I need to kick it into gear as I am doing this at the same time I am doing a prebuild of my ‘63 Corvette SWC. I bought the car all in pieces, so since I am making a restomod out of it, I am building it to make sure my parts fit well then also the modifications I am making are solid

I have hired an artist to help me with visualizing the final given all the customization that I am doing. So this is a distraction but needed to help make some of the custom pieces.....
 

NortonDommi

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Hello Firstgear,
I was setting up a job about an hour ago and thought about what is in your instructions. I'd noticed these little covers on my lathe and wondered what they were for and now I know thanks to you.
Anyhoo I measured the holes and they are a tad over 34 mm. 1" sched.40 is 33.4 mm O.D. and you will need two bits 3' long and a couple of strops rated at least 1.5 ton according to your instructions. If this is how the manufacture has said to do a lift you can't go wrong,(well you can but lets not jinx things),a lifting bar would be nice but provided you have strops or chains of a suitable length their will be no problem as long as you have head height. These lathes are a generic type some the basic structure is the same. On mine the center of the first bridge between the ways is a 18" from the headstock and the second at 28.5". You could do the lift with a single strop 2 meters long but 2.5 would give a better angle, get a 2 Ton strop. Put tailstock and apron at very end of ways opposite headstock, lock tailstock and move apron for balance.
1" sched.40 pipe can be found anywhere usually for free and a few bits are always useful to have kicking around. Sounds like the instructions you have are far superior to what came with mine.
Here's something I found out when on the scrounge at a company that imports pipe. Smaller pipes come in bundles bound with steel strap and complete with lifting strops. The company was throwing them away they had so many, now they sell them at 4 for $10 as a contribution to the social club. Ratings are between 1 - 5 ton and lengths from 1 - 4 meters. Anybody shipping pipe around you?
 

Firstgear

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I called a scrap yard near me...they aren’t sure what they have but I am welcome to take a look. You are right, it is cheap...$.25 a pound for steel! Thanks for the suggestion.
 

Clark

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My PM1236 arrived in a crate that was easy to move, but I had to lift it with straps and a come along to beams over head. Then I assembled the stand under the lathe.

I set the stand on boards so the lathe cannot fall over forward or back. I put steel casters under the board so the lathe can move. The oil needs to be drained once and replaced.
 

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Firstgear

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We ended up moving the lathe as shown in the manual. We put two steel bars through the holes in the base and lifted with the forklift. Worked very well.
 
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