Little mods making things better. (And other Stuff!)

[brino]

What a deal for him. I get the practice and he gets work done for free "but" with no guranteed results.

Don't be shy to charge for your services.
You have collected machines, accessories, supplies, knowledge, etc. all at your cost.
Sure it may be your hobby and you're glad to get practice, but it is worth something.

The exact price is something I still struggle with at times, but I've learned if you give the service away it kinda cheapens it in their eyes, and there will be an endless string of "favours", just because you have the equipment.

Someone with an art studio should certainly understand the idea of charging for your creativity, effort and space.

-brino

 

[LX Kid]

Still messing around with knob configuration. I added two upgrades. 1st is a calibrated dial on the cross slide and 2nd is a carriage lock handle that stays on the carriage. For those interested in quieting down the gear noise, I used a brown paper grocery bag strip that was doubled and squished between the gears for gear play adjustment. (About .011") Really works well. I also added nylon forward/reverse gears 20 & 24 tooth on the shifter. (Don't you just love that technical talk! LoL) The gear mesh on the stud gear was a little tight and I had to remove some of the outside diameter. Pic is before reducing diameter.

 

[LX Kid]

I ordered a 3" dialed hand wheel for the cross slide. It's same size as the original. Probably won't be here till about last week of December if I'm lucky. (China)

UPDATE 12/16/21: Received the calibrated dial and installed on my lathe. The Cross Slide shaft diameter is 3/8" so I had to make a bushing to reduce the dial's inside diameter to fit shaft. Worked out fine. Now I have to make a pointer to enable the use of the calibrations on the dial. Probably have to drill and tap a hole to attach a pointer.

 

[LX Kid]

I know a lot of people say never use grease or similar on the change gears and I'm guessing it's because fear of swarf sticking to them. However I'm trying Chain Guard synthetic clear spray. It's mostly used for motorcycle and bicycle chains. It's clear and doesn't fling off or have a buildup. It also reduced my gear noise.

 

[LX Kid]

Yup, still messing around with the knobs! With the new calibrated hand wheel I found that my knuckle keeps hitting the crossfeed knob changing my setting. I made a longer crossfeed knob that moved it further out so I don't hit it. (Now isn't this just sooo exciting!) I may also shorten the speed handle about 3/8" and retaining screw to even give me more clearance for the knuckles! LoL

 

[brino]

Yup, still messing around with the knobs!

Modding and customization.........really making it yours and one of a kind!

-brino

 

[LX Kid]

I'm starting to believe that a lot of cutting problems may be a result of using the more heavy new chuck I bought. As one forum member noted that "I have a lot of chuck hanging out there." Only reason I bought a new chuck was because my three jaw chuck only has outside clamping jaws and came with no center clamping jaws. Anyone know where I can find centering jaws for my chuck? Haven't been able to find a chuck that is similar to the original chuck in depth and weight.

 

[Grinderman]

I know a lot of people say never use grease or similar on the change gears and I'm guessing it's because fear of swarf sticking to them. However I'm trying Chain Guard synthetic clear spray. It's mostly used for motorcycle and bicycle chains. It's clear and doesn't fling off or have a buildup. It also reduced my gear noise.

I used to get swarf in my change gears once and awhile. The simple fix is to put a plug in the end of the spindle. I used a rubber plug but anything could be used. Of course you have to remove it for long stock but no more chips in the gears.

 

[jwmay]

That's an Atlas 618 right? Search on Ebay for an original Atlas Chuck with the correct threaded bore to mount on your spindle. All the new chucks are plain back with a backing plate. That backing plate moves your chuck another 1.5" further out.
Unfortunately, the inside jaws for the chuck you have are lost for all time. In theory, a person could make their own. But I've only read of one guy who did it. He's a little further along in the hobby than us. Lol

 

[jwmay]

Craftsman 6" Lathe 4" Three Jaw Scroll Chuck - Inside & Outside, Key 1" X 8 TPI | eBay

It is off of a Craftsman 101.07301 6" lathe. This has the less common 1" X 8TPI spindle threads as the Atlas lathes had 1" X 10 TPI threads during this era. 4" Three Jaw Scroll Chuck - Inside & Outside Jaws, Key,1" X 8 TPI.

www.ebay.com

Well it's possible I'm wrong about that. I just went looking and didn't find what I described for the 618. I know they exist for the 10F, and made a faulty assumption. But that link will take you to a chuck with both sets of jaws, which is probably what you want.