I used loctite 262 to push a bearing ball into a hole with the intention of grinding it flat for a hard bearing surface. I did this yesterday mid day. Whats the dry time? How long should I wait before grinding to avoid having the ball come loose?
For grinding bearing I just pop em half way down a 5C collet, close tightly and and grind. An other way is drill or bore undersize hole in scrap of aluminum, press ball in and reverse press out from other end when done. If no press a BFH and healthy swing will work.
262 is an anaerobic sealant/locker. It only cures when away from air, it must be confined. Your ball bearing will not confine much of it, so it will all seem wet to you (because it still is wet) when the portion sufficiently kept away from air is cured. You being in Ontario, another issue is temperature. At a comfortable room temperature it will cure pretty quickly. When it is cold it cures very slowly. Go easy with the grinding, it may not be held by very much area, only the area with a good tight fit will cure, the areas with more than a couple thousands clearance do nothing.
Loctite has very good instructions and lists the properties of all its products online. Do yourself a favor and do some study before picking a product. Read the fine print. Most of the people in stores are at least as clueless as the average shopper.
I feel I may have used the wrong product in this situation.
I have a cyanoacrylate 2 part glue/spray I likely would have had better luck with. At the very least it's instant harden.
Thank you for the info.
If using cyanoacrylate, be very careful with temperature while you are grinding it. C/A fails at fairly low temperatures. That "attribute" is often used by machinists for quick setups of thin or otherwise difficult to hold work. Machine it, heat it a bit, and it pops right off the backer.
For drying time of the 262, as mentioned above, the curing curves are usually shown in the data sheet from Loctite.
Will the 262 hold? Depends on the intended use of the part.
If the part will be heated by friction, maybe the ball bearing should be an interference fit in the hole and the hole a tad deeper than 1/2 the ball so the edge can be crimped.
Also consider freezing the ball with CO2 before pressing it in the hole.
A drop of liquid superglue would wick into any space left and complete the 'hold' on the bearing.
The OP's original post said he was using the 262 for holding the bearing in a hole so he can make a flat on the bearing. Machining sometimes leaves us with some dicey setups to get work done. We need to use our brains to do the best we can to compromise as best we can things like easy, strong, quick, fast to tear down, cheap, expedient, and others. Just don't compromise your safety. Hobby machinists have zero good reasons to take an intentional risk of getting hurt.
The flattened bearing is one of the feet for my squareness comparator. I have 3 others pressed in but this one came loose and turned when I was grinding them. Mind, I had no cooling at the time. Just taking very shallow passes on the surface grinder and doing it quickly to reduce heat build up. But I may have started grinding too soon after loctiting. Or it got too hot. This time, I have a spray coolant setup on the grinder now. Its been sitting now for 2 days.
I haven't needed any high temp resistance applications yet, so I skip the heat curing process ( 1hr @ 356*F/180*C). Just bond the two parts together, wipe off any excess & let sit for 24hrs. After the 24hrs is up, I've turned, knurled, milled, etc with no issues at all.