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For drying time of the 262, as mentioned above, the curing curves are usually shown in the data sheet from Loctite.
Will the 262 hold? Depends on the intended use of the part.
If the part will be heated by friction, maybe the ball bearing should be an interference fit in the hole and the hole a tad deeper than 1/2 the ball so the edge can be crimped.
Also consider freezing the ball with CO2 before pressing it in the hole.
A drop of liquid superglue would wick into any space left and complete the 'hold' on the bearing.
Will the 262 hold? Depends on the intended use of the part.
If the part will be heated by friction, maybe the ball bearing should be an interference fit in the hole and the hole a tad deeper than 1/2 the ball so the edge can be crimped.
Also consider freezing the ball with CO2 before pressing it in the hole.
A drop of liquid superglue would wick into any space left and complete the 'hold' on the bearing.
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- Jul 2, 2014
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The OP's original post said he was using the 262 for holding the bearing in a hole so he can make a flat on the bearing. Machining sometimes leaves us with some dicey setups to get work done. We need to use our brains to do the best we can to compromise as best we can things like easy, strong, quick, fast to tear down, cheap, expedient, and others. Just don't compromise your safety. Hobby machinists have zero good reasons to take an intentional risk of getting hurt.
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Hukshawn
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The flattened bearing is one of the feet for my squareness comparator. I have 3 others pressed in but this one came loose and turned when I was grinding them. Mind, I had no cooling at the time. Just taking very shallow passes on the surface grinder and doing it quickly to reduce heat build up. But I may have started grinding too soon after loctiting. Or it got too hot. This time, I have a spray coolant setup on the grinder now. Its been sitting now for 2 days.
I've been using Loctite 620 High strength/high temperature "Bearing Mount" retaining compound (3800psi shear strength) for a few years now on everything metal with excellent results.
http://na.henkel-adhesives.com/industrial/product-search-1554.htm?nodeid=8797714120705
I haven't needed any high temp resistance applications yet, so I skip the heat curing process ( 1hr @ 356*F/180*C). Just bond the two parts together, wipe off any excess & let sit for 24hrs. After the 24hrs is up, I've turned, knurled, milled, etc with no issues at all.
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Hukshawn
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I think my local wholesaler where I buy my tooling has 620 in stock... I'll check next time I'm in.