Logan 200 bearings and gears

PlasmaOnTheBrain

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Hello everyone,
I just had a Logan 200 follow me home. Its my first real lathe, and in the process of cleaning it I discovered the spindle bearings are shot and the bull gear and one of the gears to switch into the "back gear" are missing a tooth.
How bad off am I? Are these parts available and whats the ball park for how much I'm in for?
The things in fairly good shape otherwise. I got a good handful of gears (doubt its all of them), a face plate, 3 and 4 jaw chucks, and a nifty vice that fits in the tool post holder. Looks like its meant to turn the lathe into a small horizontal mill. 20200117_200302.jpg
The lathe
20200201_155341.jpg
And the 2 missing teeth...


Thank you all for any input!
-Clif
 

Chuck K

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Logan parts are plentiful in Ebay. Scott Logan still sells parts for the machines also if you want new parts. Did you get the motor assembly and tail stock with it?
 

PlasmaOnTheBrain

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Yes I have the tail stock, motor, tray and stand. They are awaiting cleaning as are the other chucks and what not.
I have to re-wire the motor to the switch because the original owner cut it to facilitate moving. It seems like its a 5 position switch; Off, forward 1, forward 2, reverse 1, reverse 2.
From looking up the serial number this thing looks to be from late 42. I have very little idea what is original, but the chuck( or at least the adapter holding it on) is not original.
 

Nogoingback

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Spindle bearings are available from Logan for the Model 200. I replaced mine in 2016: the large bearing at the
chuck end is special and not available elsewhere. I payed $211.00 for it. The smaller bearing on the gear train end
could probably be purchased from a bearing supply house at lower cost than from Logan. Logan has a suprising number of parts available, though not everything. Since you'll need to pull the spindle to change the bearings, it would be a good idea to relace the flat belt at the same time.
Ebay would be the place to look for a bull gear and and back gear assembly.
 

Chuck K

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Looks like the spring is missing from the back gear latch. The hose clamp is probably holding the latch open. In that position the back gears should be engaged.
 

Nogoingback

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I also noticed in the pic of the missing teeth that there's a hose clamp on the back gear handle. The bottom of the rod
has an assembly which latches the lathe in back gear. It may be that the spring which acts on the latch is missing.
Logan carries the parts if you need them.

EDIT: Looks like you beat me to it Chuck! :)
 

Chuck K

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I also noticed in the pic of the missing teeth that there's a hose clamp on the back gear handle. The bottom of the rod
has an assembly which latches the lathe in back gear. It may be that the spring which acts on the latch is missing.
Logan carries the parts if you need them.

EDIT: Looks like you beat me to it Chuck! :)
LOL...just noticed that.
 

PlasmaOnTheBrain

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Also yes on the hose clamp, the back gear lever is missing a spring. It was less on the list due to the missing teeth and crunchy bearings.
The $200 bit for the front bearing was the biggest part I was wondering/worried about.
I'm willing and likely to try rebuilding the gear teeth just to see if I can do it. I'll feel better about trying if new gears are available but im going to try it either way...
 

Nogoingback

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The original bearing was made by New Departure and is no longer produced. What makes these bearings different is that they are pre-loaded
internally so that no adjustment is required (or possible) once installed in the lathe. Notice the snap ring around the circumference: that
locates the bearing and is secured by the cover plate on the chuck side of the headstock. The smaller bearing just supports the other
end of the spindle and has no preload pressure on it. Some folks have tried to source replacement bearings which are the right size,
but they lack the internal pre-load of the original. So, it's an expensive bearing from Logan, but hey, good spindle bearings are kind
of important on a lathe... :)

IMG_0943.jpg
 

PlasmaOnTheBrain

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That was what I was afraid of but at the same time accepting of. I dont mind throwing a bit of money and effort at this thing to get it running good. I doubt I could get as much lathe for $1000 now a days anyways. ( I have $500 into it and if I hit $1000 I'll still feel OK about it)
 

Nogoingback

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If you payed $500.00 for it, you've got some headroom there for repairs. Logan parts aren't cheap, but at least they're available,
which is better than a lot of the old lathes.

When you get around to taking the headstock apart, you could look at a post where I documented the work on mine:
There may be some information there that will be helpful for you. (You'll notice that for some reason, that thread was corrupted with posts from
other folks). If you do a search, there are some other folks that have posted work on their Model 200's as well that might be
useful for you.

This link will be useful for you when you adjust the back gear assembly.
 

Nogoingback

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Have look at posts #16 and 17 in my write up: they explain what I did. Basically, you need to remove the nut that secures
the bearing to the shaft and then press the bearing off. You should be able to press or tap the smaller bearing out of the
headstock without too much difficulty.
 

PlasmaOnTheBrain

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Ok, so I need to take the key (the little bit to the left on the pic) out of the spindle and remove the part thats behind the double row bearing from what im seeing. I have it soaking with PB blaster at the moment for lack of kroil.
Does it matter which direction the rear bearing gets pressed out from? I cant tell if there is a shoulder or anything in the casting. I'm going to clean it up a bit more before trying to press it out.
 

rambin

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just a question b4 you run out in buy new bearings... any chance its just dried crusty grease that's your issue? id try cleaning them out and regreasing b4 I spent any money... soak them in some solvent for a few days... get that crusty old stuff out of there...

and your right you can braze up a misssing gear tooth and file the profile back b4 u spend 100s on a new one...
 

Nogoingback

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Ok, so I need to take the key (the little bit to the left on the pic) out of the spindle and remove the part thats behind the double row bearing from what im seeing. I have it soaking with PB blaster at the moment for lack of kroil.
Does it matter which direction the rear bearing gets pressed out from? I cant tell if there is a shoulder or anything in the casting. I'm going to clean it up a bit more before trying to press it out.

Yes, remove any keys first. The circular part behind the bearing is a threaded nut and will unscrew after you loosen it.
It's slotted for a hook spanner, but I used a hammer and a punch. I found that heating the nut with a heat gun helped to get it moving. The shaft has a shoulder that the bearing is pressed up to, so press the bearing off towards the opposite (smaller) end of the shaft.
 

rambin

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its possible a wrench for a grinder wheel might fit that round nut.... I tried my grinder wrench it didn't fit but I know other manufacters use different pin sizes.. just a thought I had to use a pin and hammer too and I don't like doing that kinda thing as it makes a mess of the pin holes
 

Nogoingback

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So, does your nut have pin holes drilled in it? Mine was slotted. You should be able to find the correct size of pin wrench online ,or one could be made.

Someone like this might have what you need: https://www.jwwinco.com/en-us/products/4.1-Tightening-Loosening-and-Adjusting-with-hand-tools/Hook-Spanners-and-Spanner-Wrenches
They sell metric stuff, but I found that a 40-42 mm sized wrench from them fit the small nut at the gear train end of the spindle perfectly.

DSCF7113_zpsxortgckp.jpg

If they don't have the size you need, someone else will.
 
Last edited:

rambin

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So, does your nut have pin holes drilled in it? Mine was slotted. You should be able to find the correct size of pin wrench online ,or one could be made.

Someone like this might have what you need: https://www.jwwinco.com/en-us/products/4.1-Tightening-Loosening-and-Adjusting-with-hand-tools/Hook-Spanners-and-Spanner-Wrenches
They sell metric stuff, but I found that a 40-42 mm sized wrench from them fit the small nut at the gear train end of the spindle perfectly.

View attachment 313213

If they don't have the size you need, someone else will.
I was referring to the one in behind the front bearing...with the holes on the side of the nut... yes im sure they make a wrench for it but most of us don't have it! and I hate buying tools that will never get used again! as I said above if a person had the right grinder wrench it might work...and yes ive seen grinder wrenches that pivot so the space between the to holes is adj... not too sure where u'd get it tho
 

PlasmaOnTheBrain

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Rambin : I was going to give the bearings a good cleaning before buying new ones, just figuring on the worst case. Im going to use square cast iron filler and a can of flux to rebuild the teeth. I've had better luck with that combo and cast iron vs brazing or nickel filler.
Nogoingback : The rear nut I have only has 1 pin hole. It came off with 2 light taps from a punch. The damage in the pic is existing, I did not do that to it lol
I'm more concerned with the ring thats sitting behind the bearing, unless i've been mixing up which parts were talking about.
Either way, thank you guys for all of your help!
 

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PlasmaOnTheBrain

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Update,
Got the rear bearing out of the housing without issue. A slight warming with the heat gun to the casting did the trick.
Upon slight cleaning the bearing feels better. I got the key out of the spindle without undue issue. After a soaking with PB the double row seemed to free up as well.
Solvents may win the day...
 

Nogoingback

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Rambin : I was going to give the bearings a good cleaning before buying new ones, just figuring on the worst case. Im going to use square cast iron filler and a can of flux to rebuild the teeth. I've had better luck with that combo and cast iron vs brazing or nickel filler.
Nogoingback : The rear nut I have only has 1 pin hole. It came off with 2 light taps from a punch. The damage in the pic is existing, I did not do that to it lol
I'm more concerned with the ring thats sitting behind the bearing, unless i've been mixing up which parts were talking about.
Either way, thank you guys for all of your help!

Guess I could have done a better job with my response. My intent was to give you a source for puchasing a wrench
for the bearing nut if you need it. Since I bought the small wrench from them, I threw that info into the mix in case you needed one when you re-assemble later.
 
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