Logan 400. Headstock. (Total Logan 400 Rebuild)

Hey;

DO NOT grind off the drill screws. They are hard and will not drill. There are various methods like vice grips, cutting screw slots, directional tapping with a sharp chisel. The slickest method I heard of was drilling the right size hole in a piece of sheet metal and tack welding it to the head of the screw! I wish I were you, and had me telling me all this great stuff before I ground mine off! :banghead:

New bearings, eh? That's gonna cost you. The main is a special preloaded bearing you can only get from Logan, if I understand everything correctly, and if it is like the 200. A generic will not work. I'd do everything I could to save the old ones. They can feel really crappy until you get them cleaned out. Mine did. Amazing what new grease can do.
 
Thank you Redlineman. Glad i did not go for it last night.
I see that logan sells new twist rivets for the QCGB ID plate but nothing for the main ID plate. I
think i will be taping that off though if they are that hard.

Bearings. I will try to clean them more but they feel really bad right now and if they were originally pre-loaded the are not any more.

Some boring pictures of my spare time....

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Cover is now in primer and the main headstock casting is being stripped.

The only broken part so far that i cannot repair is the reversing gear bracket. Handle is gone and one gear has a broken tooth.

I am also now looking for what paint i will use.
Rustoleum industrial has a nice Dark Machine Grey that looks close but is only available in spray paint.
Would rather buy it by the quart and spray it myself.
Their quart paint only comes in a lighter grey.

Don't want to go crazy with the paint but want something that will stand up over time.

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Spindle bearings...

So i have a quote from Logan for new bearings because mine just feel rough. I spoke to a bearing buddy yesterday about taking a regular bearing and grinding the groove into the bearing. Certainly it is possible if you know the right people but even if they did it for free the risk is high in getting the unit back together again. Especially if the inner cage is rivited. Bearings look a little cheaper now.

I spend some more time cleaning the bearings last night and stumbled on something. The bearings have soaked in Acitone for days and have gotten pretty clean so that nothing comes out of them when you manually spin them in the cleaner. They were still rough though.

How do you spin the bearing faster was my questions while it is in the cleaner.

I took my hand drill and dipped the bottom of the bearing in the cleaner then put the top of the outter race against the chuck on my drill. The chuck is hard plastic with grip ribs so i was not sure if this would work. The bearing spun just fine so now i could spin the race faster. As i went faster the bearing just locked up. Could not move it at all. Hmm... I worked it a little and a TON of crap came out. The grips on the drill acted like a vibration mechanism and helped to loosen the crap in the bearing. Pretty cool.

The bearings are really clean now and honestly feel pretty good.

Nice trick i learned.

Headstock housing is being stripped. 1/3 of it done yesterday. more today. Looks like i accidentally removed some of the red from the Logan plate so i may have to re-paint that too..... Bummer. Still have not figure if i am going to mill that off before paint....
 
Hey;

Interesting. There are people that say you should NEVER spin bearings with compressed air, as it damages the bearing, or begins a cycle of stress that leads to failure. Can't imagine drill RPM would do that. Cool that you got junk out of it. Probably old metal dust that had corroded, mixed with varnish of old dead grease, and turned to some sort of chunky junk. Sometimes it is very strange what chemical will dissolve what substance as well. I pulled the shield off of one side of my bearing and cleaned it. I put the cover back on as best I could, but it rubs a little. One of the bearings no longer has the shield on it. Hopefully it stays clean enough inside of the headstock that it is not an issue.
 
So I will go ahead and replace the bearings. Not confidant otherwise

Messed up the ID plate stripping paint. Had to come off. Milled off the rivet heads to get the plate off to refinish it.

Drilled out the rivet studs with carbide tools. Those suckers were hard . Man... but it came out well. Thanks for the heads up on that.

More pictures later
 
Pulled the saddle last night as i figured i better get work done on the bed so i can mount other stuff to it as they are finished. I also was able to take a quick look at the other gears and nuts on the assembly. I think a new cross feed nut will be in order but otherwise the rest seamed fine.

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Stopped by the paint store as well to view my options. Since i took the Data plate off i have a very nice sample of the original color. Decided i will use a oil base industrial Latex paint. Can't justify the $$ for Epoxy.

The reversing gear and bracket i am looking for are pictured below. The gear is 36 tooth. You can see mine only has 35. The handle is missing so i need a new bracket.

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I am also chasing down QCGB info from 9B and 10" Logans to learn how far the output shaft centerline is from the mount surface. I gotta believe it is adaptable to the 400 even though i am not trying to power my cross feed. Threading will be that much easier. I already know the box is 6.5" wide but am looking for the other dims as well as pictures of the input side under the left cover. I also located a picture of the shaft. It sure looks like the standard shaft can be cut down and adapted. The woodruff keyway will be the most difficult part.

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That is all for today.

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Here's a pic inside the cover of my 815/820 lathe from when I refurb'd it.

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Does that help at all?

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Hey;

See my thread for a very good match to the original color. I think it is quite handsome. Nice looking machine, Steve. One to aspire to!!
 
Steve,

That is one nice looking gear train. The attention to detail is..... Wow.

John.

Found your thread. Have some reading to do now. Can you confirm that the color is Benjamin Moore Baby Seal Grey 2119-30 and not Benjamin Moore Baby Seal Black 2119-30? Probably the same but on their web site they call it black. Want to make sure it is the same. It sure looks VERY close to the color sample i have under the ID plate.

This thread is becoming more of a Logan 400 total machine rebuild. Should try to change the title.

More work last night. Struck out at Sherwin Williams with matching my paint. In California they have outlawed the tinting of many oil based paints. I will be looking at the Benjamin Moore Baby Seal Grey 2119-30 now.

I had said earlier that i did not want to take down my saddle as i did not want to have too many groups of parts. My pie tin system is working and i really wanted to see what other parts are damaged so the saddle came apart last night. Not too bad but i found that the cross feed nut is totally shot. ~10 degrees of pitch and probable over .05" of axial play. That would explain alot.

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What material us used for the wipers? Look slike leather. My gibs and beds look good. I may re-grind my gibs at work to make sure they are flat but i think all will be ok.

Compound. How do you get it apart? I cannot get the lead screw out of the nut. I have removed the handle, the gib screws and the set screw holding the nut in place. I cannot drive the unit forward or reverse unless i am suposed to force it. Any tips?

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It seems the compound nut is ok but i did find a nice gouge out of the compound base. Not bad but anyone have a spare laying around?

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This compound came with the lathe from my Grandfather. I always thought it was a replacement but when i pulled it out i realised it is VERY different. Any able to ID it?


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This weekends plan is to clean up the bed, the saddle and the rest of the small parts. Also to start sourcing paint so i can start to put it back together.

Where there any accent colors painted on these? I have seen red on the handles and my compound handle apears to have yellow on it. (Maybe it came from the mystery compound)

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