Logan 820 Electrical Issue

First thing would be to disconnect the motor and use an ohm meter to check the resistance of each wire to the case. It might be a bad winding but it could be something simpler like a stray strand of wire touching somewhere inside that you could correct. Could also be a bad capacitor that leaks to the case. Do the same test with the drum switch, sometimes the wires touch the inside of the cover and cause a short. The readings should be at least 500k ohms or higher (500,000 ohms)
Be safe, do all testing with power off and plug pulled
Mark
 
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THANX Mark !!! Your guidance is very appreciated !! As with most problems, one must be persistent and open to learning new things. A person must also "enjoy the ride " and be disciplined in their work. Most importantly, a support group that shares their hard earned knowledge. Thanks again. CDBEAM
 
NOT throwing in the towel yet !...just preparing for worst case.

Will THIS motor work ??


Found a great deal on Marketplace !! Where is the capacitor ?? What is Split Phase !

Yikes...So much to learn !! Thanx CDBEAM
 
A split-phase motor differs from a capacitor start motor; it lacks a starting capacitor and has a bit less starting torque which is fine for fans and blowers. Capacitor start motors are more common on machine tools. Also you'll notice that motor has openings which metal chips can enter, not so good for a lathe
Mark
 
You have several options. One possibility is to have your existing motor repaired or rewound, so if there's a motor repair place
locally, you might have a talk with them first. Your second option is buying a new or used 110V cap start motor of course. I've bought a couple of
NOS motors off eBay at about half of retail price and been happy with them. Another (more expensive) option is a 3 phase motor
with a VFD.

If you buy another motor you'll need to make sure you get the correct frame. My Logan 200 uses a NEMA 56 frame motor, and since
your 820 is similar that's probably what your's uses as well. I would check anyway. Also, be aware that motors with the capacitors
on top may have clearance issues with the drive box. The original motor for my lathe had the capacitor on the side, but new motors
rarely do. 3 phase motors don't have capacitors on them, so they don't have this problem.
 
Well, It is official, Motor is shot, stick a fork in it-It is done. Winding to ground, need a replacement motor.

Only half way decent price on Ebay-


Comments PLEASE....only have 10 hr to offer !! THANX !!

Note: Crap, this one is "Footless", or can one purchase the mounting base ? Are there holes in the case for the bracket to be attached

Maybe -

"
I feel like I am "Going down the Rabbit Hole "

CDBEAM
 
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MMM...Did some research.....Baldor is definitely footless. I bet there are no holes for a base/foot mount. Very frustrating. I know Baldor is a good brand. The other offering is surly / Off-Shore. I would prefer to stick with a Brand name, but, who knows where things are made. CDBEAM
 
The ad doesn't say but if the Baldor has no mounting base on the side of it, it is probably a 56C frame, which has holes drilled and tapped in the end that the shaft sticks out of for the purpose of bolting up to something like a pump or gear head. It would not quite be technically correct to say that it will not work on your machine. But you would have to find a right angle mounting bracket, which isn't too common because it is much cheaper to buy a side-mounted motor in the first place.

Monroe should be large enough to have a W. W. Grainger store. A motor from them will probably cost more than one bought off of eBay but you won't have to pay shipping. I would take the old motor with me as you probably aren't familiar enough to be sure of getting the right one. Plop the mold motor up on the counter and tell the person waiting on you that you need a replacement. And that it is going on a lathe so he/she won't offer you one with an automatic reset thermal breaker (which would be dangerous in your application).
 
Well, the saga continues. No Grainger in Monroe, have to go down to Toledo. But,
Found this on Ebay, yea, Off-shore, but likely fine for my needs.


Looks good, will fit, No automatic thermal reset breaker, right frame @ 56c - HP @ 3/4/ - Speed @ 1800 rpm


I would really like to keep the original motor, but, that is not economical. Rebuild cost way high, I checked. No way.

Unless I have overlooked something, this is the way I will go
Comments ? Advise ?

Thanx,
CDBEAM
 
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Take a look at Marathon motors, also WEG made in Brazil- they are both good
I would also check Craigslist for used motors if you are on a tight budget
M
 
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