Logan 820 gets a new motor

CDBEAM

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OK...I thought I would document my journey for replacing the Westinghouse 3/4 motor on my Logan 820.. See the process pics.

I had the misfortune of discovering that my original motor case was hot. Likely the winding insulation had deteriorated and gone to ground. I needed to NOT light up like Uncle Fester when operating my machine !

I opted to replace the motor. I selected a Halmark 3/4 1725rpm Class F insulation. Time will tell, but this motor runs smooth and seems fine. As far as appearance, the motor looks to be of high quality.

My neighbor Bob is an Industrial Electrican and guided my work and did the rewiring

I had to relocate the position of the Peckerhead/junction box
as the original position ran into the right vertical frame member.

I simply used a 1/4 " Ally plate attached to the Peckerhead bolt pattern and then attached a new octagonal junction box to this same Ally plate. With the relocated junction box now shifted to the left, all went smoothly.

I had to order a new pulley with a 5/8" shaft ID. The Drum Switch was reused and was rewired.

Having all pcs apart gave opportunity for cleaning and painting. Looks very good, Belt tension fine and runs like a champ.

Anyway, Perhaps some other member may find themselves in the same situation and reference this document.

Thanx for all your help.

CDBEAM
 

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Alexander McGilton

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I can already see an electrical code violation, there is what appeaser to be a FMC cable secured to box by an EMT fitting. It needs to be a blunt squeeze fitting not a set screw.
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CDBEAM

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Thank you for the safety tip on the Drum Switch set screw fitting. I just reused the Drum Switch and the associated Greenfield cable set-up. I imagine the set screw type connector was code, in 1946 !

Anyway, The new motor is smaller than the old motor ( Which was build like a tank). Anyone want this old motor, just pay for shipping from Monroe, MI.

The old motor runs well, just that the case is hot. Maybe I will rewind ?? HAHAHAHA !

CDBEAM
 

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Alexander McGilton

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What's a blunt squeeze fitting look like?
Mark
What I would need to know is what type of flex conduit we are looking at, that's why I was purposely vague. Is this Liquid tight conduit? BX? FMC? and so on. Each have their own appropriate fitting. All photos taken from home depot. The first one is from box to EMT only, which is thin walled galvanized steel tubing. The next two are for FMC. Followed by NMSC only. Then finally Liquid tight only. You could try to fitting the wrong fitting to the a given conduit and it may firmly hold for a lifetime, but it won't meet regulations.
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wa5cab

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I've always known the 4th one as a Romex clamp. Guess that "Romex" is someone's trade name so Home Depot didn't use it.
 

CDBEAM

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Hmmmm... No, not "Liquid Tight" conduit, just " Money Tight" Hahaha. That is why I reused it. FMC measures 0.850" OD. Vintage stuff. Thanx.
CDBEAM
 

Janderso

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Nice job!
Looks clean and professional.
 

CDBEAM

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Thanx Jeff, I believe in sharing/documenting a process that others may find encouraging and helpful. Well this replacement path is by no means the only way, it is one way to go. Therein lies the value of the Forum..." How did someone else do what I need to do, or how do I solve a problem I am having ".

Hopefully, a motor replacement on a popular Old Iron Lathe fits that description. I would imagine, that is common for original motors, while built like a tank, to suffer from winding insulation degradation.

Well, I am still giving the 820 some tweaks. I replaced the four casters for adjustable feet. On this deal, you may have to drill another position hole on the peg leg motor support post. I needed to do this as the adjustable feet were about 3" lower than the caster units. I used my new Machinist level, and got it spot on. My Machinist neighbor suggested I mark around the feet with a marker to guide in repositioning should I need to move the machine around.

Anyway, time to make some chips. Thanx for your support.

CDBEAM
 
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