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- Dec 25, 2011
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- 10,477
Vincent,
I would assume, as others have, that the two black wires go to the run winding. And that the two red wires go to the start circuit, which consists of the start winding, the centrifugal switch, and the start capacitor all connected internally in series. And I also have to assume that you made the resistance readings with the motor completely disconnected from the switch and the line cord. If the latter assumption is true, then the run winding is shorted to the field poles or to the motor frame, something in the start circuit is shorted to either the field poles or the frame, and the start capacitor is leaky (bad).
The reading that you should have gotten with the analog (not digital, which is almost useless for this purpose) multimeter set on any resistance scale is that the needle should have kicked towards zero momentarily the first time that you connected the leads to the red wires and then quickly or slowly gone back to infinity. With a good capacitor in the start circuit, the second time that you connected the meter to the red wires, there should have been little if any needle movement, as the capacitor was already charged up to the internal battery voltage. To take a second reading with a good capacitor, first connect the two red wires together for several seconds.
Anyway, if your readings are valid (meaning that the caveats that I listed above were met), you need both a new motor and a new switch.
I would assume, as others have, that the two black wires go to the run winding. And that the two red wires go to the start circuit, which consists of the start winding, the centrifugal switch, and the start capacitor all connected internally in series. And I also have to assume that you made the resistance readings with the motor completely disconnected from the switch and the line cord. If the latter assumption is true, then the run winding is shorted to the field poles or to the motor frame, something in the start circuit is shorted to either the field poles or the frame, and the start capacitor is leaky (bad).
The reading that you should have gotten with the analog (not digital, which is almost useless for this purpose) multimeter set on any resistance scale is that the needle should have kicked towards zero momentarily the first time that you connected the leads to the red wires and then quickly or slowly gone back to infinity. With a good capacitor in the start circuit, the second time that you connected the meter to the red wires, there should have been little if any needle movement, as the capacitor was already charged up to the internal battery voltage. To take a second reading with a good capacitor, first connect the two red wires together for several seconds.
Anyway, if your readings are valid (meaning that the caveats that I listed above were met), you need both a new motor and a new switch.